I think that difference in the power source is what makes that amount of light so very amazing. Carefully reviewing the pictures side by side you can see that the Cypreus Triple XPL puts out a little less light- than the M6 on ’Roids but that is from one little battery! To me that makes a very useful light. The reason it is so useful is that the lower levels will be very useful without burning your hand, the full tilt will be AMAZING and it can sit in your pocket. It’s my opinion, the best light you have is the one that is on you. To that end, Sinner is putting a pocket clip on mine to keep it right at the top of my pocket.
Thanks, Dale for posting that comparison as well as the other pics.
I really like my Sinner lights. The rainbow anodized Ti 18650 now has a 4000K MT-G2 in it, and now this Cypreus is unequaled for it’s size, with the full Cu build it’s really an awesome little light.
And it’s very true, the best light you have is the one you have with you…unless you habitually have 5 with you then the best one you have is the one that has juice left in the cells.
I got so involved with these EDC lights that I also got a Cottonpickers Solar charger. With 3 panels it can run a 12VDC plug and operate my 4 bay charger at 500mA per bay. This is a 3.3A capable solar panel, easily able to charge the 12V car battery. So yeah, preparedness is the name of the game.
What most of y’all city slicker types don’t know, is that Dales’ moniker “DBC”, in actuality stands for “Dales Branding Company”, and this awesome upgraded Sinner light saber is his newest, latest & greatest tool for cattle branding…he can work ’em 24 hrs a day if he needs to.
My Avatar light, the Texas Poker, got it’s name from the old western legends. Sitting around a campfire, the cowboys would leave a stick hanging out of the edge of the fire, with one end in the coals. This red hot poker was used to discourage wolves, coyotes, badgers…the varmints that hang out in the brush around the fire. Hence, the Texas Poker…a hot little lance to dissuade creatures of the night.
I routinely have about five lights with me… a headlamp, a keychain light, and whichever three EDCs I feel like that day. And frequently a small battery case with whatever is relevant inside.
With a 16340 or 18350-based light, extra cells should be really easy to carry! Lately I’ve had an extra AA, 14500, and 16340 on me. They fit nicely into a 2x18650 case. With a Cypreus I’d probably just carry 4x18350 instead. Who needs multiple lights when you’ve got 3000 lumens in your pocket?
BTW, is that Ti 18650 model actually anodized? I thought you gave it the rainbow tint by heating it very carefully with a blowtorch or similar, heating each section to a different temperature to change the color. I love the look of that light, but I hadn’t heard about it being anodized before. (I’d love it if we could buy light with rainbow titanium nitride coating, but I’ve never seen one)
Anodizing Titanium is usually done in a chemical solution with electricity, something similar to anodizing aluminum. But the result is far different from aluminum in the way the metal reacts to the anodization. The electro-chemical bath is much easier to strictly control, with high voltage giving the ultimate colors. (a very nice green is found around 96V)
Using a torch to heat the Ti results in the same reaction to the surface of the metal. The self healing properties of Ti are what gives it the ability to be colorized. I used a flame on it, while it spun, and controlled how long I applied the heat to different areas, merging the effect of higher voltage across the body and head of the light. I got it pretty close, but not as accurate as a bath could have done. I just don’t have the regulated voltage supply to deliver 100V to a borox solution bath. Well, I’ve done it with 9V batteries in series before.
The knife is a Mission beta Ti Combat folder, made for divers in the Marines. Totally made of proprietary Titanium alloys. I made the small pill fob from Grade 23 Ti, or better known as 6AL4V Eli. The little keychain pen, the IlluminaTi flashlight, all Titanium except for the tiny o-ring on the flashlight. Gate clips and all, even the gates are Ti.
I redid the light and pill fob, after learning a bit more…
And here’s a good showing of how the electrical current controls the color…
The solution used to anodize Ti can actually be soaked into a small sponge on a stick, with the anode connected to this sponge. The Ti item can be “painted” with different colors by changing the voltage to the sponge.
I feel like you just told me you colored it by baking it for 13 minutes inside a unicorn horn… and I believed it.
In any case, drool… I’m now really tempted to try to find a way to anodize titanium, probably around 70V where it apparently turns a nice shade of magenta. Or with a variable-voltage power supply which could smoothly change the shade for a rainbow look.
Maybe later, much later, when I don’t have so many other projects. But I’m going to have trouble not thinking about it, because that’s insanely cool.
With Titanium, it’s not a deep surface hardening reaction like it is with Al. The surface reacts to the voltage and chemicals, making what can best be described as an oil slick on the surface, very thin. A scratch will indeed go through it. And friction from wear and tear will have it silver again in fairly short order. I quit coloring my pill fob, but if an item doesn’t come in contact much it’ll stay colored.
And hand oils from handling it will cause a surface film that will diffuse the oil slick effect, causing the colors to go muted. A wipe down with a baby wipe or damp cotton wrag will bring em right back out. Take this light for example, wear and tear will eventually have the top surface area’s silver again, but those machined grooves will maintain the color because nothing touches down in the grooves. My Texas Poker, I turned the head a nice deep sky blue, then sanded it back down to silver, leaving the flutes blue. That was months ago and they’re still blue. They get a bit light, slightly purplish, until I clean it and then they’re vibrant blue again.
As easy as it is to color, it’s not a big deal really. But if you are expecting it to stay, like the anodization on Al, well, that isn’t likely to happen.
Thanks to Richard, my Cypreus is now all copper again!
In putting the Triple with optics in this light, there was a gap that needed to be filled due to a difference in height between the reflector and optics. Richard had aluminum spacers that fit perfectly on top of the pill when I was doing this, so I used one of those.
Richard has now had a run of these spacers made in copper, so yesterday evening I pulled out the aluminum and used copper in it’s place. And got my first opportunity to use CoolLabs Liquid Pro thermal compound. This is a liquid metal, a combination of elements using Gallium, so it’s pure metal in a liquid state at room temperature. When the pieces are put together, pill-spacer-star….it’s a direct metal to metal pure perfection interface. All micro differences filled by the liquid metal. As I understand it, heat will make this solidify and become permanent after some judicious use.
This little Cypreus all copper light is now even more solid, and I plan to run some tests today to see if there’s any change in the numbers. Gotta love it! Now if matt will get that e-switch done….
This is a 3.3A capable solar panel, easily able to charge the 12V car battery. So yeah, preparedness is the name of the game.
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