SK68 & 98 Pill Ideas

Had an idea for a pill for SK68 or 98. Maybe use a blank star, and put it underneath. Or maybe a couple or more. How hard is it to sand off the connection part for the led, etc?

Has anyone tried it?

I’m wondering about stacking o-rings to get the zoom right? Going to try it on a 98.

Please post other good ideas. Maybe a few bad ones, too lol. Or sources for solid pill. Saw one on a thread somewhere

I tried sanding a coin, didn’t enjoy it. But I don’t have a dremel, either.

Not sure if I’ll get around to trying it for a month or two, or more, hopefully give people some ideas.

Why not pot your hollow pill? I’m working on a SK98 build with a hollow pill. Using a copper star, then filling the pill with JB-Weld/Denatured Alcohol mix. The alcohol (just a small amount) thins the JB Weld so it flows better, but doesn’t prevent the JB Weld from hardening. It seems to work fairly well (better than nothing, at least) and surprised me, as it’s actually fairly easily removable.

I sanded down a star once, it was a bit of a pain as the insulating substrate is actually pretty tough.

I have used coins filed flat and stars with the insulating layers filed off to fit behind stars to “fix” hollow pills. The MCPCBs dull the file, so I will probably use sandpaper if I do it again. The coins are easier to file, but to work well you need to find solid copper, silver or aluminum coins. In the US, that usually means old pennies or older dime or quarters.
I am not confident that other metals will add much to the conductivity of the star. Nor that solid non-metallic materials will work better than air. Air is terrible in small gaps but in a space as large as a hollow pill there may be some circulation.

what about a solid copper rod/disks that press fits into the pill?

cut it about half a cm thick and press fit in.
like Fritz t. Cat says some coins work too.

There would still be place for a thick driver even with half a cm copper slug press fit into it.

for the SK98, someone used a p60 pill and sand down/hammer it into the hollow SK98 pill but I couldn’t find the thread here

Don’t they sell them with solid pills anymore ??

sk68 nope. too difficult to find one.
there is a sk68 host with solid pill from taobao but i don’t know how to buy them without an agent

sk98 in fasttech has solid pill
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1206301

Why not do a proper test for once, comparing the output using a stock hollow pil with one that has some copper disk construction (pain to make, pain to focus, it gets wonky one way or the other)? I bet you will not see a difference, and we finally get over the irrelevant discussion about hollow pills being way inferior.

when I made my sk98 with dual nichias I used a couple of blank boards as spacers, to get the leds closer to the lens for a less focused fully zoomed setting.
I used a small jet torch to burn away the dielectric and connections, and just get a basic alu star, that I then tried to sand/file to get it flat(ter). since my sk98 measures 1.7-2A at the tail I haven’t really thought about the thermal transfer. I used some fujik between the boards, and hoped that would be enough.

Did you put a light in a stick, Oscar? Love it!

I folded aluminum foil over itself until it was thick, then cut it with scissors on an sk98 I got with a hollow pill. Probably a good idea to apply glue, to maintain contact, if possible.

Like to get the solid pill 98, also solid pills from taobao.

That put the led too close to the lens, I wanted a focused beam, so I unscrewed the front a little, then taped in place until I get an o ring.

That light had a big 20x1.6 star anyway, and like Oscar’s, didn’t get over 2A.

If you want a focused beam, I think you’d be limited to 1 star. I know a guy who has a grinder, maybe that would do it? I suppose it’s better that the stars are tough.

Djozz, I’m putting a 14mm star on a hollow pill to test :slight_smile: I’m curious as well. It’s one of those smaller than sk68 lights. Not sure I’ll test it, though, just see if it blows.

How do I attach the star to the pill? If I don’t use a plastic part, I can unscrew the lens to move air& cool it down. Air cooling! Blow on it :smiley: lol

I'm not curious at all. As a control for a mod 2.5 years ago I tested an unmodded sk68 clone once, XR-E on a 14500 IMR, 1.5A, hollow pill, thin alu ledboard, no thermal paste just press-fit with a plastic washer, and it just worked fine for a full battery drain without cooling. If more amps are used in a mod just change to a copper board (twice as thick, twice the conductivity so 4 times the heat drain capacity) and you'll be fine again up to 6 amps, in that same hollow pill.

power911 wrote:
sk98 in fasttech has solid pill
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1206301

No.
Order 6 SK68 from fast tech on 11/4/2015, all hollow pills
Cree XM-L T6 3-Mode 975-Lumen Zooming LED $7.30
Discounts
($0.65)
Quantity
6
Total
$39.90

   
Flashlight SKU 1206301

I have a sk98 from gearbest on its way, if I remember I’ll report how the pill is.

Sipik 68s are so low power I don’t think having a hollow pill makes a difference.

If you upgrade the driver to a FET driver and upgrade the emitter, I suspect the pill still probably won’t a noticeable difference as long as you mount the new emitter on a Noctigon.

yeah, order some nichia 219A from fasttech and make your flashlights more wifefriendly you too! :bigsmile:

Thanks djozz that’s good to know. 1-2 A is a lot of light for a light like this for me for now. I had one go out after 10 min or so of 14500, so I’m a little cautious. But the emitter was crooked. That prompted me to sign up here.

The only testing I’ve done was a C8 with similar A to yours, no problem. But it had a bigger 20x1.6 star, so I wasn’t sure about the smaller star.

oh man… what a scam
there’s another one that claims solid. But I guess it’s another scam?

Might want to keep the 68’S and 98’s straight, the original link is to a 98.

Corrected

No.
Order 6 SK98 from fast tech on 11/4/2015, all hollow pills
Cree XM-L T6 3-Mode 975-Lumen Zooming LED $7.30
SKU 1206301
Discounts
($0.65)
Quantity
6
Total
$39.90

The last few SK68s I got had boards just slightly warped — so they barely touched the little ledge at two or three points. And the boards weren’t quite wide enough to touch the outside of the cut. And the ledge itself was just barely there at all. Almost no heat conduction away from the fortunately very cheap lousy emitter.

So yeah, they worked fine. Just fine. No need to do anything, fine as is.

Except not.

If they’d left them undrilled, leaving a solid pill, they could have done a better job making the lights, they’d at least have had the possibility of adding thermal goop.

But, hey, somebody walks out of the factory with a small fortune in aluminum shavings every day, sells them at the scrap metal place, and makes another down payment on the yacht.
Can’t fault how they do business.

Of course I need the solid pill to accept the square bases on my favorite Luxeon Rebel 10mm square boards.
But I realize I’m the only one who uses those.

Oh shoot, I was hoping the sk98’S had solid pills and it was just the 68’S with hollow pill.

I think it might be ok if it has a bigger 20mm board though, and see Djozz ’s above. Also I just cut out aluminum foil and put it underneath. Haven’t had trouble at an A or 2.

Did you have trouble with the ones you have, Hank?