Can anyone help?
I'm no expert but I would just solder it wherever the batteries contact it. Then it is hooked up directly to the 4P pack of batteries and you just hook that up to any charger.
Seems like reasons why I did not purchase King are fading 8)
I just ordered one from Tmart for $43.xx shipped w/ coupon code :)
I probed with a DMM and couldnt find any obvious substantial (+) contacts on the back side of the driver (lens side as pictured above). Im hoping someone can chime in.
The area i circled should connect to the positive ring.
Thanks for the fast response and photo. It turned out that I had a short in my DMM lead, so it was preventing the probes from completing the circuit. Youre right about that being a location for the battery (+), but its probably not large enough to accept the full sustained amperage from a large battery pack.
After more nosing around, I discovered that each of the three red () leads going to each emitter shared a common battery () to the other side of the board. I was thinking about soldering a wire to each of them and then connecting them together to share the load to a remote power jack. Any idea if this would work OK? Each of the coils soldered next to each red (+) wire also shares the same common positive. So I would be in effect soldering them all together into a single circuit. Im not sure if Im missing anything here, because they all appear to share the same circuit as it is. Can you please advise? Id hate to fry the driver if it can be avoided.
Just got my SRK. I'm really impressed, and especially impressed with how easy this should be to mod. I'm going to remove all of the components from the PCB, slap 3 105C's on doing the 1 master 2 slave thing, then program the MCU. Heck, I'm sure a PCB could be made to fit all of the components of the 105C's so it would be a drop-in replacement. Not going to go that far though.
Eh, did you get the original driver (with three toroids)? If so, that is a total waste, keep the original because they're very good. Just remove the MCU and replace with a Tiny13 for programming. That's a very cheap mod and you get to keep the good driver.
I ran mine on high straight all the way, probably three times already, and the driver stood by without a hitch.
That's the thing, I don't want to waste a good driver. However, swapping out the MCU would be too much work for me since I don't know about all of the components involved like DrJones does. 3 x 105C's would be the easiest way to go for me.
I don't think it's that hard. You need only power off (clip leg off) the original MCU.
Then resolder a single Tiny13 - Vcc, GND and output signal to turn on/off the FETs.
I'm sure DrJones can help tell which to solder where.
That is not a good idea. The old chip will try and power itself via the protection diodes on the I/O pins… and do it very poorly. You need to remove the old chip.
I modded my friend’s SRK with stock driver. only MCU replaced with ATTiny13A.
I can post power & control pins if anyone need.
You have to make one pin of MCU for on/off since SRK uses press button
Did you take any post-mod picture? That would be very helpful.
didnt take photos. but I will open it again and post take some photos.
Thanks Pavithra, that would help a lot.
for now, here stock MCU pins & some details of board
Pavithra_uk: If I change those 15K SMD resistors, only doing that resistor mod will increase LED current?
Is stock led current 2.0A? I though it was a bit higher (like 2.8A)
Thanks for your help and research!
That’s my question also… I’m not gonna mess with microprocessors, etc. but can you change the resistors only and nothing else and get the 3A each?
Anxious modder hanging on answer! :exmark:
Rich