Just got my T08 today from FastTech. I'll be doing the same as the doc, but more amps and XM-L2 U2 1C on a SinkPAD, and see if I can add some copper somehow . Think I'll do some battery tests first on my 7G9 to see how 2 batteries in parallel perform with the XM-L2/SinkPAD combo.
I think the doc has the right idea for this light - it's perfect for a regulated high powered Nanjg, and hoping the 2 batteries will help with the Vf gains. Got some Pana PD's and Sanyo 2600's on the way, so maybe their lower resistance will help with this setup.
I did a resistor mod for now. At 3.2A, heat is not an issue.
If you plan to push it, check the star-to-pill contact. I lapped my pill a bit as it seems high in the center.
I have bigger plans for my T08
nikanon, the two 0.22 resistors added to the ones there will probably put the current just under 3 Amps. I added a 0.082 and got 3.2A.
Beefier emitter wiring should help. Don’t forget to add copper braid or soft stranded wire to the springs in the tail cap.
Yes, I noticed the same thing - a flat copper disc actually teeter-totters on the bump, bad sign, so I'll do my usual sanding from 200 grit up to 2500.
I tore it down last night after doing benchmark measurements on the stock light. I'm using an extra UCL/p lens, was bought for an HD 2010 - already have one in an HD 2010 and saw a good improvement there, only a minor improvement in the stock T08. Going from a 3.0mm lens to a 2.0mm saves clearance, and looks like a 3/4" 18 gauge copper disc will fit under the SinkPAD, so I'm going to try that - hope I can solder the disc under the SinkPAD using solder paste and a frying pan, like reflowing - not sure if a big iron tip would work that well. The pill, though cavernous, just might have to be skipped because unsure how to fill it with anything I got that would help.
Blazar - Yes, Im planning on stripping all components off. You want to make sure there's nothing that could be a drain on power.
lumens: 656 at start, 639 at 30 secs, w/UCLp lens: 673 at start, 653 at 30 secs, 48 kcd measured at 4.3 meters (didn't measure throw with stock lens)
I think the throw number is impressive for a 2.1A tailcap measurement, so hoping to get good results. I got great results from a HD2010 upgrade that's doing over 1,300 lumens and 91 kcd on an XM-L2 U2 1C, and these lights are very similar in reflectors and overall size/weight, but like the 2 parallel battery setup better. Plastic reflector and alum bezel (not SS) are disappointments though.
Also I did 1, 2, and 3 parallel battery tests in my 7G9 running an XM-L2 U2/SinkPAD and yes, adding batteries does produce higher amps with Panasonic 3100 unprots (1 battery: 2.3A at switch, 2 batteries: 3.25A at switch, 2 batteries taped: 3.7A w/no tailcap). However, it looks like one AW IMR 2000 beats the 2 Panasonics, so battery resistance is important. The 7G9 has a 4.2A configured Nanjg, but best I could do was 4.0A through the switch with the 3 Panasonics. Actually I got 4.15A using the same 3 batteries with no tailcap, so I'm getting a significant loss thru that tail cap (springs, switch assembly, etc.). I got supposedly lower resistance batteries coming soon (Sanyo 2600, Pana PD's, etc.) so I'll see if they help. Apparently it's a struggle with resistance through the batteries and the battery - path with driving this setup on high amps... I'm not sure what can be concluded here for certain because of the limited types of batteries used and apparent high resistance in the 7G9 tailcap assembly.
By not fitting, do you mean it's too small? If so, it shouldn't be a problem, may take some playing with, but if you use thermal grease and center by hand/eye, then mount the reflector - you should be able to get it centered ok, with maybe some retries and fiddling. The reflector should apply enough force to secure the copper star down. I've only used 20mm stars on a T08 - better clearance for the wire solder connections, but I would think you could still get a 16mm to work, but 22 gauge wire may be more difficult - better to go with something thinner.
Ooops - yes - 16mm star does have issues. I always use 20's for this light, not sure though if the copper ones need trimming - they are easy to sand or grind down though - I've done that a ton of times.
Anyone considering a dedome should be careful to avoid what I ended up with. I simply removed the star from the host while leaving the wires attached. This gave me about 1 inch of space between dangling star and body where I could dip the star in gasoline and and not have the body make contact. Well my device for holding the light up at the perfect height failed and the body came in contact. Even though the side switch rubber cover was not in direct contact it expanded and ripped, and who knows what internal damage I caused. Also the light unscrews at a previously fixed joint. Dedome was perfect and light still functions, however.