Sofirn Q8 group buy (gb closed, but try PM to Sofirn for discount)

Tom_E · 2020-05-19T12:42:23.000Z

I'm not dead set against a 9*351D of course - it should be more floody than a quad XHP50.2, but somewhat dependent on the optics and what 351D bin is used. As d_t_a said above, it should handle the heat better and have more a better power source (4P batts) than those more compact multi-LED lights out there.

nick779 · 2020-05-19T12:47:33.000Z

sunsethiker:

I have been wanting to buy the Q8 and the addition of Anduril was almost enough to make me buy one, but I am hoping charging will be added to the Q8. I do not want to order one and find out Sofirn is going to add charging soon.

Is there any chance that Sofirn is planning on adding charging to the Q8?

The light in olive drab color, charging and Aunduril would likely make me buy two.

Its really easy to flash a Q8, but OEM would be nice.

As for Q8 mods or variants, id be happy with an XHP70, SBT90, or a triple XHP50. A 9x 351D mule would be cool too.

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-05-19T13:50:22.000Z

Q8 4x50.2 3v you will get the tint shift in lower to mid levels to say about 6000lm when white wall hunting…

But at 16000+ lumens it all go’s away specially outside, inside you’ll pretty much blind yourself

Thro · 2020-05-19T14:04:03.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

Q8 4x50.2 3v you will get the tint shift in lower to mid levels to say about 6000lm when white wall hunting…

what tint did you use ? i have a bunch of 5000k 50.2 3v on the way from sofirn

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-05-19T14:45:26.000Z

Thro:

KawiBoy1428:

Q8 4x50.2 3v you will get the tint shift in lower to mid levels to say about 6000lm when white wall hunting…

what tint did you use ? i have a bunch of 5000k 50.2 3v on the way from sofirn

Cutter K2 1D

I thought it said on the paper work from Cutter it was like 5230K something weird like that? It was the warmest tint at that time I could find…

The Sofirn 21700 Triple is using the Cutter 50.2 3v 1A 6500K…

Tom_E · 2020-05-19T14:57:39.000Z

KB - I hope the 21700 is on the left and the Q8 on the right in the beam shot pic, while you show the lights oppositely in front of the keyboard?

It's a spectrum of color....

Well, I guess that's not a good thing

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-05-19T15:27:12.000Z

Tom E:

KB - I hope the 21700 is on the left and the Q8 on the right in the beam shot pic, while you show the lights oppositely in front of the keyboard?

It’s a spectrum of color….

Well, I guess that’s not a good thing

Correct… It’s not that bad outside… but still I mostly BLAST Turbo… it’s just a TOY…

Tom_E · 2020-05-19T15:39:35.000Z

Yep agree, it is what it is. The whole great tint, great beam thing doesn't apply too well to these XHP50.2 3V's, but they do put out a ton of light. XPL-HI's are still my favorite for good look'n beams, while for tint, there's a bunch of choices for low output great tints with various pros/cons.

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-05-19T16:21:53.000Z

Tom E:

Yep agree, it is what it is. The whole great tint, great beam thing doesn’t apply too well to these XHP50.2 3V’s, but they do put out a ton of light. XPL-HI’s are still my favorite for good look’n beams, while for tint, there’s a bunch of choices for low output great tints with various pros/cons.

Yep I agree with that. My modded XP-L HI and XHP35 HI are my favorite Go-To lights… (sure I have a few CRI orange and pink pocket fondlers (EDC) lights) Meh there ok for close work.

I did a Q8 and SP36 with Hanks XP-L HI V4 3C’s I like the tint and the throw…

Lightbringer · 2020-05-19T17:32:12.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

Maybe it’s just me, but that’s precisely the kind of beam, at whatever level, which would probably make me not buy one (or more).

Makes no sense to get a killer light, only to have to slap in diffusion film to make all that go away, and turn it into a überflooder anyway.

That reminds me, I need eggs.

Tom_E · 2020-05-19T17:49:45.000Z

I'm ok with the ~NW on the right. The blue spot on the left one looks bad, but again, that's white wall stuff. It's pretty much expected. Those Cutter LED's actually look very good - wish they were easier to come by.

Ahh, here: https://www.cutter.com.au/product/xhp50b-00-0000-0a00j4051/

--> 5400K, 3B0 tint, J4 bin. Not bad. Qty 10 has no volume discount, so total would be $70 US shipped (DHL @$16). Not great but not terrible either.

mortuus · 2020-06-09T07:35:40.000Z

sunsethiker:

Q8 Pro version is coming with charging and colors.

Sofirn wrote:

Q8 Pro will adpots 4*XHP50.2(3V)，giving out 10000 lumens

wow thats insane.

Di_Joker · 2020-06-09T10:02:54.000Z

Barry0892:

4* XHP50.2(3V) vs 9* LH351D (another version can be 9*SST20)

Which do you guys prefer?

4* XHP50.2(3V)
I would like an emitter 4*XHP50.2(3V) 5000K and Anduril firmware.

Lux-Perpetua · 2020-06-09T15:49:03.000Z

I have talked to Barry about the idea to testing Q8, SP36 or C8F with Osram White Flat 2mm², i.e. CSLPM1.TG. This would of course require changes of the MCPCB‘s footprint, gaskets and possibly on the driver using FET, too. But maybe it’s worth the effort, having approx. 4x 1.200lm with a big boost in candelas/lux compared to XP-L HI.

What do you think?

Tom_E · 2020-06-09T15:58:57.000Z

For the driver, there's problems. High amps but amps must be restricted - not an easy or cheap combo to do. Figure for a Q8 or SP36, 5A per LED, 20 amps, but no more than 20 amps. Hhhmmmm.

14 7135's per LED, 56 7135's, or better to avoid 7135's and go with a driver like Hank uses with the K1, only circuitry x 4, tricky, expensive, space problems.

Lux-Perpetua · 2020-06-09T16:12:57.000Z

If I recall correctly Lexel once had a Q8 driver with only 7135 AMCs but without the MOSFET. Maybe I‘m just mixing it up, not 100% sure. How about using 3.2V LiFePO₄ batteries only? Certainly, this would leave a high risk that the customer inserts 3.6V standard lithium ion batteries by mistake.

Can White Flat 2 be driven to more than 5A, like 8A? I thought this 5A restriction would apply to White Flat 1, only?

Lightbringer · 2020-06-09T16:19:15.000Z

If it’s a pain in the ass trying to center 1 WF, what about trying to center 4 of them?

Nice idea for a one-fer, but in a production light?

Tom_E · 2020-06-09T16:27:39.000Z

The PITA to center the WF1's and WF2's is lack of a proper centering ring. In a production light, should be easy to have the proper centering ring made, then problem solved.

For amps, yes - the WF2's can take more amps but still have the same problem - to restrict the amps. Could of course use unregulated FET with proper resistance to restrict it, maybe use 35E's or GA's to help out, thinner LED wires, etc., for example. There's options there with a FET I suppose. I do it with my own WF1 mods, but it's a pain to keep in mind the battery you use though.

I guess someone should test out quad or triple WF2's in a host and see what amps you get. SP36 could be better because of 3 cells per 4 LED's, C8F better still - 1 cell per 3 LED's.

Lightbringer · 2020-06-09T16:54:56.000Z

Tom E:

The PITA to center the WF1’s and WF2’s is lack of a proper centering ring. In a production light, should be easy to have the proper centering ring made, then problem solved.

Single emitter in a one-hole reflector, sure. But when reflowing 4 WFs onto a single huge pcb, each one will wiggle and pull to what feels comfortable, then set in place when the molten solder freezes.

Now you gotta drop the big honkin’ reflector over all 4. Centering rings or not, it’s lucky if they fit in the holes without constant stress pushing one/more LEDs laterally.

Now, if there were a way to precisely place the LEDs on the pcb and hold them “centered” throughout the entire reflow process, that’d work. Otherwise, they’ll still wiggle and self-center on the pads as they see fit.

Exaggerate the error. Make the “bolt circle” of the LEDs even 1mm bigger. Now none of the LEDs would fit in the reflector’s holes, not without cracking one/more LEDs as they’re shoved sideways off the pads, or just corner-crushed by the reflector as it’s shoved down onto them.

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-06-09T18:48:19.000Z

Lightbringer:

Tom E:

The PITA to center the WF1’s and WF2’s is lack of a proper centering ring. In a production light, should be easy to have the proper centering ring made, then problem solved.

Single emitter in a one-hole reflector, sure. But when reflowing 4 WFs onto a single huge pcb, each one will wiggle and pull to what feels comfortable, then set in place when the molten solder freezes.

Now you gotta drop the big honkin’ reflector over all 4. Centering rings or not, it’s lucky if they fit in the holes without constant stress pushing one/more LEDs laterally.

Now, if there were a way to precisely place the LEDs on the pcb and hold them “centered” throughout the entire reflow process, that’d work. Otherwise, they’ll still wiggle and self-center on the pads as they see fit.

Exaggerate the error. Make the “bolt circle” of the LEDs even 1mm bigger. Now none of the LEDs would fit in the reflector’s holes, not without cracking one/more LEDs as they’re shoved sideways off the pads, or just corner-crushed by the reflector as it’s shoved down onto them.

Yeah man they are a PITA to flow….a bitch even on the 20mm triple/quad boards…they look good when in the flow, then F’N move when in the chill….because the boards aren’t designed for these WF1’s …wtf!