JasonWW
(JasonWW)
706
I got 120kcd as well. The easiest way for me is to measure out 10 meters exactly (plus an inch for the lux meter) against a wall. Then I mark the point where the led goes (10 meters plus one inch). I set the lights led at this mark and turn on turbo. I walk to the wall and move my lux meter up and down to find the brightest spot, then left and right to again find the brightest spot. Then double check that area just to make sure that’s the brightest. This usually takes 30 seconds which is about the right time to take the measurement.
You can turn the light on at a lower level and find the general brightest section of the beam before going to turbo. This way you know the general area to look at.
On my light, I used button top 30Q from Banggood. Cleaned the contacts with a paper towel.
Texas_Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka’s S2+.
Turn on = 4600lm
20s = 4400lm
30s = 4330lm
Candela = 120kcd = 692 meters
Parasitic drain = 127 micro amps
switch light off = 22 micro amps
I may go to the local hardware store tomorrow and see if they have brass screws the right size. They have a nice selection.
I checked the bump resistance by slamming the base of the light as hard as I could into my palm. No effect.
I could have sworn I saw a driver picture with an extra capacitor added somewhere on it. I took a close look at my driver and I don’t see anything unusual except for a double stack of capacitors on C2.

According to FlashyMike an extra cap here can help, but he added one a lot larger than on the factory Sofirn driver. Maybe this smaller cap is sufficient?
Proposal to avoid power off on bumps
An additional 100 uF ceramic cap over C2 appears to be sufficient in my light. No power hickup on hardest bumps, even scratched the tailcap during tests.
