yes i read your post, was thinking of going in like the other gentlemen through the switch port, i know there is no kit, maybe i should just use your way. is it hot glue?
whats the point of the bypass spring?
can you program the aux light to show battery voltage while off, does that work with this model? it seems to be a rgb thing, so i wasn’t sure the 31 could do it.
My Anduril light, a FWAA, does not have a lighted switch…
I hate blinkies. So I dont want any kind of blinking at startup.
When I want battery voltage, I click 3 times from off… very easy.
and I have learned that 3.6V is about 50%… I would not want to give up the fine detail that Anduril battery check provides. The battery blinkies operate Only when requested, NOT every time I turn the light on…
Works great for me.
great…… thats why i said toggle it. no where did i say this needed to be forced on for people.
Tom,
Do all the Sc31 Pro have a halo? mine is a 5k, and the halo is pretty distinct, any thoughts on how to deal with it? Its bothering me more than I want it to.
Halo? It's not a XG-G3, XHP50.2 or XHP70.2 with a yellow halo at all. The SST-40 5K's I thought looked pretty good in the SC31 Pro.
It helps reduce the amount of resistance between the cell and driver. The spring might have a higher resistance and reduce the current.
Yea, for getting the most amps, I'll add bypasses to most of my mods, plus keeps the springs protected from building up heat, possibly melting - happens only on cheap springs.
Looks normal to me for a small SMO. Not sure what you are expecting.
its worse then any fenix light i own by a significant margin. ok if its normal, just wanted to check.
Are any of those as small, and SMO? I just compared to one I had around - an old Eagle Eye X5, and roughly the same. From my collection, I'd say the OP in this size is more popular, but then you sacrifice some throw - classic tradeoff though between better looking beam on a white wall vs. better throw.
I added some DC fix for a while on mine. Smoothed out the beam but it does restrict the throw. Took it off eventually. Outside the sc31 pro looks ok.
99% of fenix are smooth, my ld 22 is almost identical in size, with 0 halo. when the light is on turbo outside, that outer ring is impressively bright. the fenix’s tend to have a deeper reflector though, this is more shallow, but i just checked a couple headlamps, and there is a dim halo, just not that bright outer edge.
Deeper reflectors will tend to tighten up the hot spot, make it more distinct, doesn't effect the actual distance much though. All my small Convoy's single LED's seem to have OP. I have a Sofirn SP32A V2.0 w/SMO, deeper reflector and it looks awful, but that's because of the XP-L2 LED with it's yellow halo. The 5000K SST-40 is so much better.
That LD22 shows here an XP-G2 - different entirely, much smaller LED surface, different profile, and of course much lower output.
Has anyone noticed high parasitic drain on a recent batch of SC31 Pro’s?
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/qe9ern/sofirn_sc31_pro_draining_batteries_without_use/
Sofirn kindly sent me an SC31 Pro for free that someone had returned as faulty to Amazon Australia.
I factory reset it. The Sofirn 18650 cell was 0.6V (measured with DMM).
I inserted a Samsung 30Q 4.17V and the torch works.
But I measured 250mA parasitic drain while the switch LED was off.
It has a burnt electronics smell near the head.
ordered one in november, from ali. seems to work fine, no smell, i leave the light on, its been on a week.
mine was ordered in november. 45 micro amps (not mA, that showed around . 04) with switch light off
Here are some photos of the driver:
you realized its burned right? im not sure since you didn’t say anything but that black stuff is a failed component.
Inductor exploded? Worth getting a cheap hot air station and finding a replacement part? :student:
looks burned, badly. at 22 dollars, I honestly would say no, But I have a hot air station, so its up to you, does great heat shrinking as well 
They may sell the driver boards separately on ali.