Hi,
My new flashlight has warm yellow color temperature, is this normal ?! I’m using Eneloop Pro.
I thought it should’ve been 5000K !! it’s more like 3000K or less, I think :question:
What’s your experience with this light ?
There are versions with 5000, 4000 and 2700 K.
> I thought it should’ve been 5000K !! it’s more like 3500K, I think
what does your order say the LED is supposed to be?
I got it from the official sofirn store:
https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-sp10v3-0-mini-edc-handheld-flashlight-super-bright-1000-lumens-with-lh351d-led-5-3-modes-using-in-outdoor
I can’t find any options for LED color temperature !!
There’s an image that says 5000K.
I saw that website, but was actually suggesting you look at your actual order… stock changes… the web page changes
anyway, sorry you dont like the warm LED… other people really like those and would consider themselves lucky. Im waiting to order 2700K when it becomes available.
I hope you find a way to enjoy the LED you got… it will probably look much nicer at night…
another option is to learn to change the LED yourself… its not difficult, but it does require various supplies and tools
here is a pictorial of me removing and replacing the LED in an SP10:
Weird…on that page they don’t mention the emitter CCT at all. 5000K is their usual with the LH351D, however.
Do you have a 14500 lithium cell you can try? I suspect that what you’re seeing is just the dimmer/darker beam from running on a boosted NiMH cell. They boost it up to 3v or whatever, but to permit decent run time they keep the current much lower on those than what the driver will allow for lithium ion. True for most emitters, the combination of low drive current and the resulting tint shift can be very visually dramatic.
They pull more than 7 A from a NiMH. Don’t think it can deliver more.
That’s too much work… 
Thanks for the suggestion anyway jon_slider.
I don’t have a 14500 cell yet, I always use the safer NiMH batteries 
especially on this one which I think the first batch of these lights had problems with lithium batteries, as few members posted in another thread !!
So what do you suggest? should I contact Sofirn and tell them to send me the advertised 5000K white beam flashlight? 
how could you demonstrate that what you got is not what it is supposed to be? Can you post a photo?
something like this:
the background is a piece of white printer paper
iPhone camera, auto white balance, during the day at the kitchen table.
great photo, thanks
I think the light on the righ looks normal for 5000K being compared to 6500K on the left
I do not think there is anything wrong with your Sofirn LED… The difference you see is normal.
How orange or blue a light looks, depends on what it is compared to.
to see the difference, shine a light on a wall during the day, take a photo, do the same at night… you will see the exact same light will look a totally different color, depending on the time of day
welcome to the flashlight LED nerd support group
What?? Is that what you got? My sample size is only one, from last December. Bought it as a gift and wanted to check it out first (curious but also based on the initial complaints). On Eneloop Pro and Powerex I had something like 4.5 and 4.8 amps on turbo (I didn’t write this down so just memory). Around 1.1a on high with the Powerex and less than a half on medium. On an H10 14500 I think it was something like 4.5a on turbo or thereabouts. I can’t imagine 7 amps being good at all in this host, with any cell, or any emitter.
I don’t think the light had a particularly good bin (whether or not it was high CRI…but the tint was not great especially at those low currents).
I didn’t follow along with this model so if there were changes to the driver or something after those initial couple batches I’m unaware, and I didn’t buy one for myself.
Yeah, I think that beam as shown looks pretty normal tempwise, Mike. Running this emitter at higher currents brings it closer to its factory rated CCT, as does running it bare vs. the changes that optics introduce. I bought one for a gift last year and in testing it that’s pretty close to what I saw except the tint on mine looked a bit greener to my eye and was pretty bad on medium. You might like it after you use it for awhile, and if not, it’s not terribly difficult to swap emitters if you want to get into modding. I don’t know if there’s a drop-in or easy-to-make-work TIR optic for this host, but that’s another option that you might prefer visually.
That would be 7A at ~1.2V. The current will be much less at the emitter.
7A does sound like a lot for a NiMH though.
Yes. I’m just surprised 7 amps could even be shoved through. lol. I wish I’d taken the time to test current at the emitter because I was curious what the driver was really delivering from the NiMH cells. I wonder how many of these LH351D emitters Sofirn has to blow through…seems like they’re using them on everything now. I do know that the bins I’ve been able to get from Digikey and from Simon sure look nicer than what Sofirn has (not like the Sofirn are crappy by any means, but still).
Not 7 A with this battery, but still more than 6 A. So maybe 7 W input, assuming 90% efficiency 6.3 W output, thus 2 A at 3.2 V forward voltage.
Thanks for the above video SammysHP.
Interesting how you bent the two connectors on the ends of the jumper cable slightly differently to enable one finger of one hand to securely position and hold both connectors (one connector to the battery's negative terminal end and the other connector to the bare aluminum edge of the flashlight's tube).
I wonder if a 2450 mAh NiMH battery (which is typically better for high drain applications) could provide more current than the 1900 mAh NiMH battery in your video.
I also wonder how the current measurement for a SP10 V3 (the subject of this thread) on Turbo would compare to the current measurement from your video of the SP10 Pro on Turbo.
Agreed, thanks for the video! Now I just wonder why such a large discrepancy. Is the Pro driver with Anduril appreciably different than what the put in the V3? Earlier this evening I looked at the measurements Zeroair got on his test for the V3 and he was very close, plus or minus, to what I listed above (and again, that's just my memory only). I have no idea how he tests, and when he does or doesn't utilize the ANSI 30 seconds. I think I only tested my NiMH turbo amps for around ten seconds, handheld short length of 10ga copper stranded (I guess that's a bit more than 5mm²) which shouldn't matter either way. I've got a couple other AA/14500 lights with boost drivers so I think I'll play with them this weekend and see what the meters say...curious.
I had measured both here: Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available! - #1765 by SammysHP
Directly after turn on. After 30s the current would have dropped significantly. Also I get different results depending on the battery.
What is the CCT of the left & center light??
Does it say on the box what LED & CCT the light on the right is supposed to be?
I’m like you, I do not like the warmer temps at all. The one on the right looks warmer than 5000K to me.