Thank you! 
I added the info to the preview (I am sorry, I can’t find a way to write your name correctly to the credits because underscore is translated to Italics)
Yeah that’s lowish PWM for me. Too bad.
Are you saying there is simply no memory at all?
Yes. The PWM is clearly visible.
There is something like mode memory, but it works incorrectly (at least in my light). It should keep the mode after 3s on, but it doesn't. Turning the light off and on after 3s on always starts on Med (= like no memory).
The 3s timer is there, as first mode change after 3s on will bring on the Med mode, even from med mode. (Med 3s on -> click -> Med -> click ->Low)
Maybe that could be summarized as: No memory & switching to other mode is a little buggy. :)
Thanks for the decription. Explaining the timer helps immensely. That does sound buggy. Or at least isn’t controlled/programmed as I would want it. The SF site and its shoddy engrish translations don’t help at all.
Dear Solarforce -
I am available and willing to write proper English product descriptions in exchange for flashlights. PM me.
I simply love 18650, AA and 2xAA torches. I always wondered why SolarForce ever discontinued the T4 (very few online shops are still offering them for $90 or more; it has been discontinued years ago). The T4 basically was a clone of the E-series $urefires, and came with an XR-E Q5 emitter, and an extension tube for use with either 1xCR123A or 2xAA. One of the first lights with HA (type III) ano which I acquired before I got me L2P, EZ-AA and $-fire C2 Centurion (on a budget, off ebay - I never paid MAP for me $urefire lights).
(sighs) One of these days, I have to buy those new T1 and T2 torches! I would have, already; if they had blackened the stainless head (and if I had the funds; I have just bought a 4Sevens Quark Tactical QTA-1AA, so pricey, so posh…!)
next on the list: T1 and T2
How you fancy yer Tactical QTA-1AA mate?
…lots!
A much nicer beam compared to, let’s say, an LD10; forward clicky, just two easy accessible modes (usually programmed to firefly and max), and a plain gorgeous deep-carry pocket clip. HA /type III ano is perfect, yet the finish doesn’t withstand drops as well as some other torches (solarforce L2P, for example, or even Convoy S2). I mean, it won’t break- but it will be scuffed as easily as a Fenix torch - do they use a softer alloy? I suspect Fenix and 4Sevens are coming from the very same production line. The machining marks of the square threads do match like twins, under my microscope.
Haven’t taken it out, yet; in fear I might drop it accidentally… but, it is so nice and gorgeous! Hopefully, I will get over these emotions and put it to good use - I have far too many shelf queens, already.
I got a reply by Solarforce.hk about how memory is supposed to work (and it does work like they say). In a few words, there is no memory for lower settings group, after three seconds off T1 always reverts to Medium.
There is an exception I found where it remembers Low but it isn’t really worth using as even with this trick it will eventually revert to Med after being turned off for some minutes: If you select Low mode, switch off, tighten head, turn it on momentarily and loose the head, the next time you turn it on it will not start on Medium but it will remember Low (for some minutes). That exception kept me from seeing the pattern.
Thanks for the review Aleister. It sounds like a flawed beauty.
Can someone measure what’s the lux/1m number? Thanks. Is it easy to mod? How does the driver “know” when you unscrew the head?
It’s 4230 Lux @ 1m on high
When you screw the head, the body (connected to the battery’s minus pole) closes circuit touching the threads of the head. When you screw it to the end, it also touches the head’s ring. So when the head gets power only from the threads it knows you are on low, when it gets from both the threads and the head it knows you are on high.
It shoud have more lux with XP-G2 but I doubt it would beat Nitecore EC2. Tough choice…
An XP-G would make it appear more throwy with its smaller hotspot and less flood but in reality - according to my eyes - XM-L will throw just as much as an XP-G in a head of similar dimensions but XM-L will have much more spill and will light up a much bigger area. At least that’s the case between my T1 and Nitecore IFE2 or L2P MF-XML and L2P MF XP-G or iTP A1 XP-G and Olight i1 XM-L.
So in general terms, I usually prefer an XM-L for most uses falling back to an XP-G if I want similar throw (and only throw and I don’t care about flood) with less battery consumption.
IFE2 has 3400 lux/1m from XP-G driven at 1A. If the throw is similar to T1 with bigger reflector and 4300lux/1m from XM-L driven @ 1,6A, I think at the same current and with the same reflector XP-G (and especially XP-G2) really makes sense. Nitecore EC2 has smooth but similar (to SF T1) reflector, XP-G driven at about 1,5A (almost like T1) and has 7000 lux/1m, that’s noticeably more then Solarforce. I already had ~400lm XM-L flashlight (Sunwayman V20C) and it was smashed by 300lm Fenix PD31 with XP-G in tiny reflector. Beam was too floody, 400lm was barely enough for walking (it barely hit 50m), I had to use the highest brightness much more often than with PD31 - because of that the actual runtime was much shorter. Unles it’s big, heavily driven flashlight, XM-L doesn’t make sense to me.
My IFE2 at 1.10A and its shallower than T1 reflector is ~2770 Lux at 1meter (on my lux meter). I am not speaking against XP-G (even more XP-G2), I love XP-Gs! But in general use, an XM-L is usually - for me - a better all-round choice because it just adds spill to the throw of the XP-G.
Thing is - it deosn’t have the throw of XP-G. What XM-L does is it reduces throw and adds this light to the spill. It has to be driven much harder to have the same throw in the same reflector. For some people floody lights with limited throw are good all-rounders because they lit up more area but I prefer slightly more focused light because when I’m lloking at something my eyes focus at this one piont. Foodier XM-L needs more power make it equally bright. I don’t need bright spill, regular one from XP-G is enough.
hi all. how do you remove the lock ring on the tailcap of the t1?
I used a pair of small pliers (specifically Leatherman Juice S2). You push the pliers in the semi-holes and you unscrew like you would with any screw.
I just got my T1 yesterday and have been playing almost non-stop. I read the other thread when the T1 was first introduced and many complained about the dual color but I actually like the look. Its different than my other lights and I think the chosen design is extremely attractive. I also like the twist for low-med. It reminds me of my Dereelight CL1Hs where I loved that I could get it on high right away. My favorite thing about the T1 is the size though. It’s the most compact 18650 light I have and fits as easily in my pocket as my 1x123 lights. I can’t believe this light is not more popular as I couldn’t find anything in or near it’s price range that offers the performance, slim form factor, or aesthetic appeal. I hope this light gets more popular as I’d really like to see a great light that’s a great value also get recognized. I have a few other Solarforce lights, all L2 variants but this is by far my favorite from their lineup. In fact, my favorite amongst the lineup of many other lights from more popular brands I own.
guys be advised that the tailcap on the solarforce t1 is not stainless, as soon as the paint is stripped it rusts right away.