Solder question?

DB_Custom · 2018-12-06T22:26:31.000Z

I’ve been using the Hakko 888 in Jason’s video for several years. Love it! I never could solder before, but man I’ve gone through a couple of pounds of solder with this iron!

Edit: And for the record? I NEVER apply flux. I use Kester .031 leaded solder with flux core and that is good enough. Some 500 plus lights modded that way, simply do not use extra flux, ever.

JasonWW · 2018-12-06T23:06:09.000Z

Funner:

JasonWW:

Funner:

I used my new Weller a few minutes ago, it’s night and day compared to my old one. Now I’m waiting on a few led’s for some mods.

My next will be Xhp70.2 in a Ultrafire F13.

I planned to build that combo about 16 months ago, but decided I wanted a side switch light instead. I put the light and the HA1 driver in a drawer. Oh well. I built my mini L6 instead. I’ve had a Supfire X17 ready to go for 6 months now waiting on Lexel release his boost drivers with NarsilM.

What driver do you plan to use? A boost driver or use 2 x 26350?

22mm boost driver.

I had to double check my parts. I bought a smaller 20mm H1-A boost driver over the H2-C 22mm boost driver because it does 3A. The 22mm only does 1A.

Are you using the H2-C or waiting for MTN E to release his 22mm driver?

JasonWW · 2018-12-06T23:12:22.000Z

DB Custom:

I’ve been using the Hakko 888 in Jason’s video for several years. Love it! I never could solder before, but man I’ve gone through a couple of pounds of solder with this iron!

Edit: And for the record? I NEVER apply flux. I use Kester .031 leaded solder with flux core and that is good enough. Some 500 plus lights modded that way, simply do not use extra flux, ever.

Your missing out. The extra flux can certainly help.

I’m gonna be trying out a T12 style iron similar to the Hakko 951 with the integrated heater and temp sensor in each tip. In theory, it can respond to temperature drops very quickly and starts applying additional power to compensate very fast. Faster than the older 888 style tip and heater setup. I hope it works well.

Funner · 2018-12-06T23:21:14.000Z

JasonWW:

Funner:

JasonWW:

Funner:

I used my new Weller a few minutes ago, it’s night and day compared to my old one. Now I’m waiting on a few led’s for some mods.

My next will be Xhp70.2 in a Ultrafire F13.

I planned to build that combo about 16 months ago, but decided I wanted a side switch light instead. I put the light and the HA1 driver in a drawer. Oh well. I built my mini L6 instead. I’ve had a Supfire X17 ready to go for 6 months now waiting on Lexel release his boost drivers with NarsilM.

What driver do you plan to use? A boost driver or use 2 x 26350?

22mm boost driver.

I had to double check my parts. I bought a smaller 20mm H1-A boost driver over the H2-C 22mm boost driver because it does 3A. The 22mm only does 1A.

Are you using the H2-C or waiting for MTN E to release his 22mm driver?

I believe the H1-A and H2-C are only good for up to XHP-50.2.

clientequator · 2018-12-07T00:15:20.000Z

JasonWW:

DB Custom:

I’ve been using the Hakko 888 in Jason’s video for several years. Love it! I never could solder before, but man I’ve gone through a couple of pounds of solder with this iron!

Edit: And for the record? I NEVER apply flux. I use Kester .031 leaded solder with flux core and that is good enough. Some 500 plus lights modded that way, simply do not use extra flux, ever.

Your missing out. The extra flux can certainly help.

I’m gonna be trying out a T12 style iron similar to the Hakko 951 with the integrated heater and temp sensor in each tip. In theory, it can respond to temperature drops very quickly and starts applying additional power to compensate very fast. Faster than the older 888 style tip and heater setup. I hope it works well.

in my humble opinion, I like the T12-type soldering iron. you can purchase them quite cheap on aliexpress, and use real hakko T12 tips with them. For example: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1486111/
These work faster than many Hakko or Weller I have used, please give them try.

Lightbringer · 2018-12-07T01:34:48.000Z

JasonWW:

Jerommel:

Those are usually alcohol solutions and i haven’t been impressed with the liquid fluxes i have tried.

Right, it’s a lot thinner/watery. It’s not the best type of flux, but it does improve the joints. It’s main advantage is its very clean.

Hmm, I still got plenty of this blue stuff that looks like washer-fluid, and is a fluxing-demon. Fizzes away as you’re cooking the joint, even a light dab lets the solder wick its way into the wire and make a nice solid joint.

Fiik what brand/formulation it is, as the place had it in a gallon jug and they let me fill a glass juice-bottle (½pt or so) with it. Still got over half left, as just a teeny drop does the job.

clemence · 2018-12-07T01:43:59.000Z

The easiest flux to clean are those water based. Stream of faucet water is all it takes. No rubbing/brushing needed. Generally water based flux are more aggressive/corrosive than oil resin/based. And you have to clean it since it will cause corrosion if left on.
My favourite is Zinc Chloride based flux, makes tinning oxidized traces and wires so much easier.

- Clemence

JasonWW · 2018-12-07T02:00:51.000Z

clientequator:

JasonWW:

DB Custom:

I’ve been using the Hakko 888 in Jason’s video for several years. Love it! I never could solder before, but man I’ve gone through a couple of pounds of solder with this iron!

Edit: And for the record? I NEVER apply flux. I use Kester .031 leaded solder with flux core and that is good enough. Some 500 plus lights modded that way, simply do not use extra flux, ever.

Your missing out. The extra flux can certainly help.

I’m gonna be trying out a T12 style iron similar to the Hakko 951 with the integrated heater and temp sensor in each tip. In theory, it can respond to temperature drops very quickly and starts applying additional power to compensate very fast. Faster than the older 888 style tip and heater setup. I hope it works well.

in my humble opinion, I like the T12-type soldering iron. you can purchase them quite cheap on aliexpress, and use real hakko T12 tips with them. For example: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1486111/
These work faster than many Hakko or Weller I have used, please give them try.

This is what should be arriving any day now. A STM32 2.1S with 8 different tips to try out.

JasonWW · 2018-12-07T02:03:08.000Z

Funner:

JasonWW:

Funner:

JasonWW:

Funner:

I used my new Weller a few minutes ago, it’s night and day compared to my old one. Now I’m waiting on a few led’s for some mods.

My next will be Xhp70.2 in a Ultrafire F13.

I planned to build that combo about 16 months ago, but decided I wanted a side switch light instead. I put the light and the HA1 driver in a drawer. Oh well. I built my mini L6 instead. I’ve had a Supfire X17 ready to go for 6 months now waiting on Lexel release his boost drivers with NarsilM.

What driver do you plan to use? A boost driver or use 2 x 26350?

22mm boost driver.

I had to double check my parts. I bought a smaller 20mm H1-A boost driver over the H2-C 22mm boost driver because it does 3A. The 22mm only does 1A.

Are you using the H2-C or waiting for MTN E to release his 22mm driver?

I believe the H1-A and H2-C are only good for up to XHP-50.2.

The driver doesn’t know the load, in this instance. 70.2 works fine.

Barkuti · 2018-12-07T03:18:44.000Z

Funner:

…

I believe the H1-A and H2-C are only good for up to XHP-50.2.

WTF? Definitively no way:

H1-A's open circuit voltage goes stock above 14.5V (tested by myself), yet its boost IC (TPS61088) datasheet lists 12.6V maximum output voltage. It has been tested to drive 3S emitters succesfully, but it is limited to 10A maximum input current.
H2-C is set to drive 4S emitters by default (XHP35s and such) and can operate with much more power handling capacity when fed by 2S cells. Its boost IC datasheet specifies up to 17A input current. Can be configured to drive 2S emitters (XHP50s and XHP70s). See Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy).

Cheers

eas · 2018-12-07T07:28:49.000Z

I don’t find extra flux too helpful for new joints, but it makes rework ~~so much easier~~ possible, especially for joints that are a few years old.

I do sometimes use added flux when soldering pre-tinned leads to pre-tinned pads on MCPCBs.

I use a refillable brush pen to apply it.

Electronics grade 99% Isopropanol does a good job of removing rosin flux.

Funner · 2018-12-07T10:04:28.000Z

I believe the H1-A and H2-C are only good for up to XHP-50.2.
[/quote]

The driver doesn’t know the load, in this instance. 70.2 works fine.
[/quote]

New to me. And all a know or not know is reading the specs on Kaidomain’s or another’s site.

So would I “notice” any difference in performance with the H1-A vs a listed XHP70 driver?

Thanks

wstrachan · 2018-12-07T13:59:37.000Z

In the US it is somewhat hard to find solder with lead or blended.

staticx57 · 2018-12-07T14:08:36.000Z

In the US it is easy to obtain leaded solder.

Funner · 2018-12-07T14:11:46.000Z

wstrachan:

In the US it is somewhat hard to find solder with lead or blended.

Only in the state of California.

JasonWW · 2018-12-07T15:57:31.000Z

Can people in California order it from out of state? Maybe from eBay or an electronics store?

I didn’t even know California banned it. (It is banned) For the rest of the US, you can get top notch Kester from Amazon all day long.

I know some of the higher end solder station makers will have lead-free specific tips due to the more corrosive nature of the lead-free solder.

Funner · 2018-12-07T15:38:55.000Z

JasonWW:

Can people in California order it from out of state? Maybe from eBay or an electronics store?

I didn’t even know California banned it.

I know some of the higher end solder station makers will have lead-free specific tips due to the more corrosive nature of the lead-free solder.

My bad, my post was complete sarcasm. I’m not sure on their status on it being banned or not. Here in NC, ACE Hardware and many other stores carry the “good” stuff.

Kind of like how everything is “Known to cause cancer in California”, and if that’s case I don’t want to EVER go to California.

Happy Day

JasonWW · 2018-12-07T15:56:45.000Z

Funner:

I don’t want to EVER go to California.

It’s the climate there, man. Southern Cal has the low humidity of a desert, but with cool, comfortable temperatures. It makes me want to wake up and go jogging. And I don’t even jog! Outdoor sports, motorcycle riding, surfing. It has a lot going for it. Some bad stuff as well, but nobody is in a rush to abandon the state. They put up with the crap, because the good outweighs the bad. Just my opinion.

Funner · 2018-12-07T18:50:52.000Z

JasonWW:

Funner:

I don’t want to EVER go to California.

It’s the climate there, man. Southern Cal has the low humidity of a desert, but with cool, comfortable temperatures. It makes me want to wake up and go jogging. And I don’t even jog! Outdoor sports, motorcycle riding, surfing. It has a lot going for it. Some bad stuff as well, but nobody is in a rush to abandon the state. They put up with the crap, because the good outweighs the bad. Just my opinion.

I’ve spent plenty of time in California, saw all I need to see to know California isn’t for me.

clientequator · 2018-12-07T18:41:00.000Z

Funner:

I believe the H1-A and H2-C are only good for up to XHP-50.2.
The driver doesn’t know the load, in this instance. 70.2 works fine.

New to me. And all a know or not know is reading the specs on Kaidomain’s or another’s site.

So would I “notice” any difference in performance with the H1-A vs a listed XHP70 driver?

Thanks

Funner, the h1-a driver is a 1-cell boost driver (take in about 3.7V from single lithium battery), and output up to 3A at about 6V, so it look to me like constant current boost driver. Because of that, you can drive XHP50 and XHP70 led from Cree, if they are in 6V configuration on pcb. The xhp50 and xhp70 are similar other than xhp50 is a bit smaller and handle less maximum current (4.8A nominal vs 6A), so you will have no difference in performance, other than that a xhp70 driver may be able to output even more power.