Cant thank you enough for taking the time to do this video,superp.Would never have dreamed of even trying soldering small stuff myself.My Iron tips are way to big,i know that now.The info on flux and the correct ones to use is a top tip,one of many great tips in the video that only someone with real experience can teach.
Thanks pal
DON…
63/37 Tin/Lead ratio is nicer to work with. 63 to 37 is the eutectic ratio of tin and lead which means two things:
- That ratio has the lowest melting point of any mixture of tin and lead.
- It has a true melting point - no mushy state. It’s either solid or liquid. Melt-range solder sucks - it has a play dough state where it’s not solid, but it’s not liquid either…
that’s the general idea though - RMA core. Just look for 63/37 instead of 60/40
PPtk
My pleasure, I’m glad the video and the information were helpful to you!
Maybe I’ll make a few more short videos on soldering… Seems to be a common question around BLF…
PPtk
Budget (100 Grams of solder):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Best-63-37-Tin-Lead-Line-0-3mm-100g-Rosin-Core-Solder-Welding-Iron-Wire-/321012608879?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abdd7af6f
Known Quality (1 Pound/450 Grams of Solder):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-Solder-Wire-110231-Reliacore-15-63SN-37PB-020-15RA-Solder-Wire-/180998029341?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2452c01d
Done. The bills in the mail PilotPTK. Thanks again.
And one should always be aware that solder fluxes and especially solder pastes have a limited shelf life. A lot of solder pastes have to be shipped on ice and kept in the ’fridge. Some have a shelf life of just a few weeks. It’s best not to buy more than you can use in a reasonable amount of time. Also buy from a reputable source… you don’t want to be buying expired stuff.
Very good points texas. Especially with solder paste.
I’ve used “expired” flux-cored solder for non-critical things and it’s never caused me any grief, but expired solder paste is a real concern.
What happens after the expiry date? Does it turn toxic or does it just not work anymore?
What happens after the expiry date? Does it turn toxic or does it just not work anymore?
Most solder flux is toxic before it expires
After the expiration date, it doesn’t work as well and may not activate or may not burn off as it should, trapping flux residue inside of the solder joint.
PPtk
What happens after the expiry date? Does it turn toxic or does it just not work anymore?
Solder pastes are suspensions of very fine powdered metal in a paste flux binder. The best ones have very tiny-weenie metal particles. Over time, the metals oxidize and no longer melt properly. The finer the particles, the quicker they oxidize.
BTW, I have some 20+ year old RMA solder that works just fine. Being sealed in what amounts to a lead tube seems to keep the flux core fresh. Liquid fluxes get exposed to the air and tend to deteriorate over time.
A big thanks to you guys here. I got the flux the other day and it made a slight difference to my soldering but not what I expected. The 63/37 resin cored solder mentioned above turned up today. You guys are unbelievable. I've tried a dozen different solders over the years and nothing compares to this. I can actually put tiny little shiny blobs of solder on drivers now and the LED wires just melt into it. You have just made my day. Cheers.
Yup. When it comes to soldering, 63/37 Sn/Pb is the cats meow. Glad that info helped you!
Yup. When it comes to soldering, 63/37 Sn/Pb is the cats meow. Glad that info helped you!
Seriously, I've stuffed more things that I care to mention with poor soldering. I really cant tell you how happy I am right now. Yeah ok. I'm harping but I am happy.
Hobbyking stocked the Hakko 936 clone in German warehouse today and I ordered it. :)
Should I get something else to clean the tip or sth. like that?
My tin is from Weller, 1mm and says L-Sn60PbCu2/zh.
Thanks for these tips!
Very helpfull.
I have used this:
http://dx.com/p/1mm-1-meter-rosin-core-solder-16027
Any idea how bad this is?
I would guess it is “real” lead based tin. When I melt it, there appears to be a pretty good amount of yellowish stuff, which I assume to be the solder within the wire.
It runs pretty good on surfaces and leaves a shiny “blob”.
Sorry for amateur expressions…
It melts better, than the usual stock tin found in drivers or emitters or electric apparel in general.
Awesome video thanks for the help Mr. Pilot.