Hi there I have a olight SR52 and it dropped from about waist hight onto grass then I wouldn’t turn on. It felt like the batteries were a bit loose. So I take off the tail cap and it doesn’t sound right kinds like a ting ting ting noise ad I wind on the tail cap. So I put the batts back in that I give it a Tap and it comes on. Then tap again and it turned off. I think the tail cap has broken and can’t earth. How do you pull them apart to have a look?
I have a brand-new SR52. I also have a problem with it. Only 1 of the 3-cell cavities takes a charge from the USB charger that comes with the unit. I have checked the electrical continuity of the tail cap’s rotating disc that contains the 3 springs (should be all be electrically-connected, right?) and only 1 of the 3 negative springs is ‘grounded’ or connected to the tail cap’s body.
Aside from the charging problem, with the tail cap problem above, is it possible that the light is driven by only 1 of the 3 cells? How will I know? (aside from waiting for a runtime test)
Help please……
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Did dropping compress the springs so that they don't put enough pressure on the cell now?
Might have cracked solder joints, I think solder doesn't stick to steel especially well to begin with.
Insert one cell, try it three times, once in each position.
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Insert one cell, try it three times, once in each position.
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I just tried it just now. With only one cell loaded in any cavity, the spring that has continuity will always align with the cell because the brass dowel stopper ( the one that keeps the 3 neg. springs always aligned to the back of the cell/s) the ‘working’ spring is on the right of the dowel, as in the previous pic, so I can’t possibly determine at the moment if all three cells will operate as 3p.
The SR52s I've seen had springs that were too short to reliably work with unprotected cells. It is a stupid design, but with longer protected cells it seems to work fine. If it were mine I would change the springs, although the tailcap isn't easy to take out either.
You see my problem here is that it was working fine with unprotected button top vtc5. Then I dropped it now there is play in the battery slots. And I never played much with the tail so I don’t know what it felt like before
I don't have a SR52 so I don't know exactly how it's set-up.
Can you use three cells, but put a piece of tape over the end of two of them and switch positions?
I'm wondering if the strings just got a bit compressed when you dropped the light. They were probably right on the edge before. You could try stretching one of the springs to see, or try it without the tailcap on and see if the battery bridged to the tube will work.
It sounds like the impact compressed the springs. Can you grab the ends with long nose pliers and stretch them back out a bit?
Great minds think alike. 
Yes I will try giving them a stretch when I get home tonight.
I have an early SR52, when using flat top cells it needs 2 not 1 magnet to make contact, when I add solder, it have to be a big round glob to work…see attached pics
^is there a magnet under that solder blob?
no magnet, just solder…
In my case, I also tried almost 70mm protecteds, but still only one of the cells gets charged.
The tail cap’s 3 springs are supposed to be electrically connected to each other, right? Only one of the 3 has earth connection to tail cap body.
Yes, all 3 are supposed to be connected together. You've got another issue.
Mine works perfectly on this combination.
Your tail cap’s design is different from mine, which has only 1 brass post to keep it from rotating (as seen in post #1). Yours have the same design with the unit reviewed by Selfbuilt, which also had charging issues.
My tail cap is the same as the one in the photo above
If a remove the center Philips screw in the tailcap, it just keeps on rotating but does not fully disengage, perhaps designed that way. How would I approach the earth problem?