SRM 710 sharp?

Is your SRM 710 as sharp as most of your other knives?

For some reason I’m not (so far) able to get it as sharp as my other knives.

This must be the famous German non-humor.

What first sharpening in the fabric? That doesn’t make any sense or mean anything. You can’t just string random words together and expect us to understand what you were trying to say.

To the OP, get a high powered magnifying lens of some sort. I used to sharpen by feel for many years but when I started looking closely at my edges, I noticed things I was missing. It helps you to understand what is really going on with your edge when you can see it. You may be trying to sharpen at the wrong angle, you may be rolling the edge, you may just not be doing it right. Unless the steel is total garbage, it should at least take a decent edge.

My guess is your technique is to blame. Most of these SRM type knives have good steel. These 710s have steels that would be considered great 15-20 years ago.

He ment first sharpening at the factory.

I found mine to be very sharp when new. I’m not sure I could get it that sharp myself

I’ll keep experimenting with it. I have about 12 knives in all and I’ve been able to get most of those shaving sharp. There were 3 that I’ve had a problem with. Even those slice through standard paper.

Does the general blade shape have something to do with the outcome? Flat vs. hollow grind and slim vs. thick etc.? Do the "tricky ones" have some attributes in common vs. the "easy ones"?

I agree that this knife never really gets sharp…I use a basic sharpener but it’s good enough for my enlans to get shaving sharp…the 710 never does though…i’m getting one of those sharp maker things in the future so i’m sure that will get her sharp…

The “hard” blades are different. One is hollow grind, on is a Wharncliffe, and one is a small tanto.

I’ve tried the 710 with a stone and stropping, the Landsky ceramic rod (Croc) system which is similar to a Sharpmaker and using grits of wet/dry sandpaper from 220-2000.

my bad got the names mixed up…I was talking about the work sharp thing…seems idiot proof…which is good for me…

http://www.worksharptools.com/sportsmans-sharpener.html

Seem nice, maybe even overkill, but you’re tied into expensive (proprietary) belts. It’s still not going to do anything that a cheap stone and a strop won’t do unless you are going to use it to reprofile edges which might be faster with that.

If it gets the 710 sharp I guess that’s something! Let us know how that works.

yeah someone was sourcing belts for it or talking about it…wouldn’t be hard but their belts aren’t expensive…I just think it would be cool to be able to sharpen my knives without being able to mess it up…it even does the bevelled edge (I think that’s what it’s called) when the belt flexes…everything i’ve seen says it does an amazing job…just trying to justify the cost…I will end up grabbing it eventually and do all the kitchen knives and my pocket knives…

Convexing is what you are referring to I think. I guess the cost isn’t bad when you consider how easy it is to ultimately spend that much on several cheaper items.

I have a $10 two-sided “stone” from ACE Hardware, about $10 worth of various grit wet/dry sandpaper, the Landsky Crock ceramic stick system for about $15, etc.

I’d just like to be able to get sharp knives with the most basic equipment. I have been able to do that for most knives. I’d like to play around with one however :slight_smile:

I do want to learn exactly what it is about the 710 that is giving me problems however!

yeah I agree man…I like basic equipment…it’s cheaper lol…my smith’s 2 way sharpener is a basic tool but damn if it doesn’t make things sharp for what it is…I follow it up with a steel and I can shave with my enlans…the 710 just doesn’t react to it and stays half-way sharp…(sharp enough to cut you open but not shaving sharp)…I don;t know what it is with the 710, but I agree it gives me problems too…and yes convexing sounds right lol

I just noticed that the only two blades I have that are hollow grind (I think that’s the correct term for the 710 blade?) are the 710 (which I can’t seem to get razor sharp) and my Enlan M011 which is my sharpest knife right out of the box (I haven’t had to sharpen it).

So, I’m still trying to determine what it is about the 710 that is different from my other knives.

Brian, I have straight razors that are “full hollow ground” (very convex ground) and “near wedge” (near flat ground, very light convex ground) and I never noted a difference due to the ground, it is more a matter of steel quality and heat treatment.
As straight razors need to be sharpened with the cutting edge AND the spine (back) touching the water stone, to keep a constant and the original angle (about 18°), an hallow ground is faster to sharpen because there is less material (steel) to remove.

I guess if one wants hair-whittling sharp and usage is not that hard, get a VG-10 blade.

Yes, that’s why i got a USB microscope. :smiley: You get useful mag to 200X easily. (gcbryan would be familiar to the term “empty magnification” in astronomy)