Beamshots… Picnic table at about 40 yards. Identical exposure setting and white balance used for both. Note that at this exposure setting, the side spill is very dark. These images should be treated as a RELATIVE comparison, to differentiate spot intensity between the two lights.
HD2010: XML-T6, 10x7135 @ 3.5A. (I think this light is in the ~45-50K lux vicinity, although I have never measured it).
FatMax: XML-T5 (5000K), 9x7135 @ 3.4A
Very nice beam shots. I love your mods. The different tints really stand out and it would appear that the HD-2010 has a larger hot spot. Is the Fat Max beam more intense in real life?
Hey thanks… yes the fatmax beam is smaller, tighter, and holds its beam shape a little farther out than the HD2010. While the HD2010 beam will open up and flood out a little closer.
At shorter distances the fatmax hot spot is definitely smaller and brighter by a slight but noticeable amount. I think the beam shots pretty accurately represent what I actually see, in terms of relative spot size and intensity. Another forum member told me that I should try bumping the current up to ~4-4.5A. Even with the 3.4A mod done thus far it still runs pretty cool, for my short burst spotlight intended use. It should also be noted that ceiling bounce comparing the two, the HD2010 is slightly brighter there. So I really don’t think I am driving the XML to its peak.
As a constant-ON task light 3-3.5A is about perfect.
Sorry to bring up the old thread but I’ve been thinking of buying this spotlight. Thanks for the break down and seeing whats inside, I think this what I’m going to buy for Christmas!!!
After I saw the crazy beamshots of this LEDLISL and HIDLISL in the link below, I couldn’t believe that this thing is a crazy laser thrower!!!
http://www.modsynergy.com/review262.htm
we LOVE to dig up old threads
fyi, there’s a nearly identical version of this light at my local walmart - in w/ flashlights instead of automotive section - its orange and black but external heatsinks are gray. labelled black and decker….same price as stanley
Hmmm thats interesting. dthrckt I didnt see it on Black and Deckers website, must be a new model? The only ones I see are…they don’t have the heatsinks.
You can’t find stanley’s light on their website either 
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-10-Watt-LED-Spotlight/21804432
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Decker-Lithium-Ion-10-Watt-LED-Spotlight/21804457
I know this thread is a bit old but with the help of the photos and instructions I tore my FatMax down last night and de-domed the XM-L. I didn't finish it until after work today so I haven't played with it in the dark but it's a much more neutral and please tint now and the beam is (obviously) even tighter. I measured a 1.43° hotspot now (don't have before measurements) but that's a spread of only 18" @ 60' which is quite tight.
This light was already by best thrower and this will take it a step further. I'm willing to bet it's about 100k lux now. I will say that white-wall hunting this thing never had a pretty beam but it's extra ringy now around the hotspot but I doubt that will be noticeable at all when I take it outdoors tonight.
I'm quite a noob when it comes to modding but the de-dome was quite easy. Just disconnected the star from the aluminum heatsink and bent the wires a bit so the whole star sat in a shotglass of gasoline over night, then the dome just popped right off perfectly clean.
Anyone have beamshots of this light moded? Curiosity has me.
I built one of these earlier in the year for a guy who wanted one for his boat. I believe that I have some photos around, I will see if I can find them. The light I worked on looked like the second light in post #25 with magnetic reed switches. This guy wanted something with a bit more flood and reliability. I ended up putting an XP-L in with a bit warmer tint on Noctigon, with some silicone heat cubes under the noctigon as it was bigger then the contact area on the heat sink. I did not de-dome as he wanted a little more flood. As I did not want to go full-bore, I replaced the current sense resistors with a lower value so he could run the light all he wanted to without worrying about heat. I would have to check my notes, but I think I ended up just above 3A. I also upgraded the ni-cad battery pack with some higher spec batteries so it could still use the on-board charger (I had to transfer the thermal sense diode from the old pack to the new). I also changed out the wires to heavier gauge silicone. As the light was not mine, I do not know what it cost to purchase the original light.But the end result was a good usable light that was not too bright to use close up. The owner of the light seems to be pleased with it as well.