Strange mains behavior

I have 10 1w cheapo LED connected to this driver. I have connected it to the mains cables that run inside walls. When I raised the fuse I heard some arcing inside the fuse box, but it didn’t blow the fuse, so I’ve pulled it down. After I’ve disconnected everything and raised the fuse again I’ve connected the driver to a regular plug and plugged it to wall outlet and everything works fine. When I measure the voltage between the two cables I was connecting it to it’s 220v.
What could be the problem?

What exactly do you mean by by raising the fuse.

And what country are you in, so we can tell if you’re supposed to be only seeing 110vAC, or if 220vAC is your standard mains supply.

“Arcing” in the fuse box, if it really is electrical, is Very Bad, but usually easy to fix. Relax & tell us what’s going on & you’ll have an answer soon.

The mains should be 220v, that’s fine.
The fuse looks like a switch, by raising I mean switching it to the “on” position.

When I got home now, all the fuses looked fine but there were no power in most of my house (one outlet that has a separate fuse was working, everything else, that connected to other 4 fuses had no power. After playing a bit with the fuses the power was back, but when I turn on the light in my room it was going down again but didn’t blow the fuse. I’ve pulled down the fuses that I don’t use (boiler and few outlets) and it seems to work fine now.

Here is a photo of the fuse box BTW:

It normally has plastic case, I took it off to take the picture. I could see the arcing at the bottom between the fuses if I slightly tilt a fuse sideways.

I guess something is wrong with the fuse box. Could it be because of me trying to connect the LEDs?

I think I’ll stop messing with it and call an electrician after weekend.

Wow that’s much different than we have in the states.

Looks like the bottom of your breakers(fuses) are linked in series. If one of the first connections on the left goes bad you lose everything down line. You could shut off the whole thing and check for bad connections. Chances are you will have to cut and re-strip the bad wire and tighten it back in.

Edit: I’m an electrician :slight_smile:

I think the misunderstanding is that over here your ‘fuse’ is a breaker. Australia I’m guessing?

I was thinking wire in glass type fuses.

All I can think of is a grounding issue……but I’m not sure if that could cause your problem.

My outbuilding has been rewired 3 times, and for whatever reason one light switch bites! The electrician was clueless…

Any ideas about my chompy switch? I replaced it so its not a bum switch……only thing on the breaker is a fluorescent ballast. 4 t5 tubes, nothing crazy.

The arcing you’re seeing is because while you are moving the breaker around the crappy wire is getting connected then disconnected. Lose connections under a load (like a light or fan on somewhere) will spark. Ever plugged a battery charger in with the battery already in it? It sparks because it immediately goes on with a load and for a split second it had a crappy connection.

Sorry I have to ask, chompy?

Edit. Sorry I get it. Does it have a metal cover?

It’s in a metal switch box, but a plastic cover. I even took it out and carefully touched only the plastic rocker and still got a jolt.

Oohh sounds kinda dangerous! 120 volt? I wouldn’t think that would somehow jump through the plastic. If you had it pulled completely out of the box then my best guess is a faulty switch. And something that your feet or other hand is touching is grounded really well when you’re messing with it.

I have no idea how or why it does it. The breaker box for the building is about 18 inches to the right of this switch… Idk if that has anything to do with it. It feels like a tickle. It doesn’t hit like Mains voltage….
It was wired as a house first. Then at 240v three-phase for a machine shop, and now it’s been redone as a storage building. The 240v outlets don work at all, and one outlet controlled by a light switch reads 53v with the switch Off and normal with it on….tried an electrician and He didnt want the headache. I don’t blame him…
The rest of the wiring works fine. I don’t understand it.
This weird switch I just keep the use the breaker as the switch. No jolt there.

Don’t mean to hijack your thread OP

The comment about 53 volts helps! Sounds like your clueless guy didn’t bond the ground and neutral together. Which doesn’t explain 240 not working but…

Bonding usually happens somewhere close to the meter at the first point of disconnect. Essentially your ground and neutral are the same thing at that point but stay two separate things after that. If you don’t bond you get weird stuff going on.

But I’m wondering how it was changed from residential 1 ph to 3 phase. Must have worked when the machinist worked there I assume. Some guys would kill to have 3 phase in their shop!

oddly that looks scary, is a single #14 or #12 wire having to carry the load of five separate circuits through 40 Amp breaker Main?

That “main breaker switch” on the left is a residual-current circuit breaker and is only used to protect persons from electrical shock, for instance if you are grounded and are touching a live wire.
It will trip at 30mA.

I’ve re-tightened the bottom connections and pushed the wires that I could a bit deeper and it did help. Everything works fine, including the LED lighting.

It looks so, but I think it is 10 gauge.

Not sure which country this is from but I would guess the incoming lines are fused at 16A or maybe 20A, you will probably find those fuses where the energy meter is located.
Also see my previous post about the “40A” breaker.
Good thing that you solved it :slight_smile:

glad you got it sorted, if it was me though I’d remove those daisy chained cables coming into the bottom of your mcb’s from the main switch and fit an isolated copper bus bar- much bigger surface area than the gauge of wire you have so more secure and less resistance-
That’s how they are normal linked in the Uk at least
If I see then linked like that it’s normally because the electrician lost the proper bus bar or someone nicked it for scrap before the job was finished :slight_smile:

Could be some type of GFI circuit breaker

Yes that seems to be what you call them in the US :slight_smile: