I bought two separate batches of Panasonic NCR18650’s from HKE on ebay. And across 5 different flashlights, when the battery is fully charged, the blinking mode will not work.
If I leave the light on high for 5-10 minutes, and start cycling the modes, I can eventually get the light to work across modes.
Some details about the batteries and lights:
Each light is a regulated light.
Both batches of batteries are protected (8 cells, total).
All batteries were charged to 4.2 volts on a SYSMAX Intellicharge i4 JETBeam Nitecore charger:
This same charger charged a pair of 26650’s for use in a Trustfire A8, and both batteries (Trustfire 5000’s) work perfectly when fully charged.
Five flashlight types:
Four random single battery XML-T6 flashlights.
One one of these XML-U2 lights XML-U2 .
Out of the 5 lights, including the XML-U2, only one of them worked across all the modes with a fully charged battery. This one: Fandyfire 2130
And it only did that once. The second time I charged the battery, it did just like the rest of the batteries.
Does anyone here know what the issue is with these batteries/lights?
Is there a fix other than partially discharging the batteries after each charging?
These are all different body designs, and even different manufacturers, so I can’t imagine the lens could be shorting on them all. But I took one off of the UltraFire light, and it didn’t help.
As far as the cell crush situation goes, the lights work if I run the battery on high for 10 minutes or so. So it doesn’t make sense to me that it’s the battery being too tight, although I did try with the 4 styles I have here (one of them is at work), with no luck.
I'm pretty sure your protection circuit is tripping.
At full battery charge, the strobe must be pulling very high current in short pulses. These spikes, though in short bursts, triggered the over-current protection.
Once the battery has been used for a while, the voltage & current drops just enough to evade tripping the circuit.
If any, this confirms your batteries are in good condition and can deliver real amps
Unlike overvoltage(OV) or undervoltage(UV) protection, overcurrent(OC) protection has the option of deadtime control length.
OV needs the V to rest to below threshold before FET turns on again.
UV needs charger to be connected AND V to rise above hysteresis voltage before FET turns on
OC can have deadtime length - (e.g 2 second) FET off before it turns on again. It's up to to the circuit designer.
That's why I think it's possible OC protection kicks in and remains off while the strobe is in effect.
But why would the pulse of a strobe pull more current than the maximum that the driver lets through to the LED? The XM-L version of the EDC from IO that the OP has is regulated at 2.45A.
I find this all hard to believe. Five different flashlights with eight different batteries.
The odds of this abberation happening is mathematically astronomical.
The batteries are the same. Even though purchased on two occasions, it's still possible to get the same batch with the same extra sensitive overcurrent protection circuit.
If I were you (LED A stray), I would set the charge to 4.1V for these batteries and get it over with. I believe that should solve the problem. You probably lose a couple hunder mAh, but on the plus side, gain some good battery life cycle.
This did occur to me, although I was hoping there would be a simple fix for it.
So let’s say this is the case, then… is there a way to avoid this with the next batteries I buy? The flashlight is already regulated, do I really need protected batteries?
This has happened before with Intl Outdoor blue, their overcurrent protection was set at 3A and caused all sorts of trouble. They changed it to Black version with much higher current trip protection.
You could, with proper care, remove protection circuit from one battery to confirm. If that battery runs without problem at full charge, then this theory is proven.
As for protection circuit, you seem to be:
1. Charging with a good well-known charger
2. Using original battery from Panasonic (one of the safest)
3. Running single battery lights only