Stupid Maglite Question

I’ve never taken apart a maglite before, and I didn’t realize it would be this complicated.

How do I get the dang thing apart? All the instructions im finding say to use a hex key through the switch, but those posts are all from at least a year ago and it isn’t working.

It’s an LED mag, serial starts with DL303

That should be correct for a side switch mag. I think it’s a long 2mm hex. Back the screw up further than you expect and the switch assembly should then come out of the battery end of the tube.

I think it’s actually a small torx but OL uses a hex and pushes in hard while turning. One of the multi angle hex tools with a knob end.

A regular ball end hex has always worked in mine, but they’re incandescent mags, so maybe they switched to torx at some point.

Which way do I turn the hex? A 2mm feels like it’s not hooking up. 5/64” feels like it’s turning something, but nothing really happens.

I remember reading somewhere that they changed things recently, but now I can’t find it when i need it

Normal threads. Just double checked my incandescent mag switch, a 2mm ball end hex definitely works.

Yeah 2mm does nothing on this one, 2.5mm doesn’t fit at all.

I don’t like all the plastic I see down there anyways, maybe I’ll have to find a different host.

The switch module is all plastic and has always been so but once removed the tube has ample room for mods. Good luck!

Took my incandescent switch all apart, looks like a cross between a small torx and hex, but ball end hex fits perfectly, regular end too. Here’s a picture. Be aware that the screw doesn’t come out when it’s fully loosened, it just backs out of the body tube into a pocket in the switch assembly. For your sake I hope you’re switch is the same.

As I recall, the ball hex doesn’t actually fit into the socket but the taper of the ball allows it to engage when a square ended hex won’t. Does anyone know what size torx it is? I have T10 long shank tips but is there a T5 or a T0?

I have a T1-T8 set with every”t”ing in between, I’m pretty sure they increment by 1 into the teens at least. So yeah, could be that you’re going to have to wait for someone with a switch like yours and a sub T10 sized torx set to find out, or pick up a set yourself unfortunately.

In my incandescent switches the wrench fully seats in the screw, looks like this variant is definitely different.

Yours does look like its got the post in the middle …very squashed…

EDIT:
Has anyone checked this thread at CPF, its 2010, but says the new set screw is a T8.

There is mention of using a T7 to fit past the switch and should that might crack the screw depending on the individual light. On a brief read it says to grind down the shaft of the T8, or just use the T7. I suppose if your T8 is straight shaft it should fit fine as the discussed unit has a shoulder on the shaft. Anyway read for yourself… for all I know its way out of date.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?275264-new-set-screw-tool-for-Mag-D-switch/page5

I just ran to home Depot and they didnt have the necessary tools, so I bought a 3D Defiant “Unbreakable.” It has a tail switch, and it’s not as compact as the mag, but otherwise it is better in every way. Great mod host.

The mag will live to die another day.

To open mine, I ordered the entire switch assembly which comes with two tools, your maglite switch is the newer model and it is a T8 torx security. A regular T8 won’t work.


Tool only: http://www.ebay.com/itm/T8-Torx-Security-Screwdriver-for-XBOX-360-One-Controller-Brand-New-/291033631057

Switch assembly: Maglite 108-000-208 Flashlight for sale online | eBay

Those dirty little………

Older mags used 5/64 Hex. Newer mags use T8 but the hole thru the switch is only slightly larger than the tip, where most T8 screwdrivers taper into a fatter rod so they have to be ground down to size. It is not T8 security unless it has changed again very recently.

You’re right… Just checked again, sorry it’s not T8 security, it’s a regular T8 with a thin shaft.

It has to be a T8 with the shaft the same OD as the bit end. There are none that really work without grinding the shaft. I use a 2mm ball end T wrench with a long shaft. I grip the light in one hand, press down very hard with the T wrench, in the other hand and turn. It will turn out the screw. It just takes a lot of downward force to make it hold in the screw. I turn four full turns after loosening, to get the screw to clear the tube wall. It's easy, Mag does not want you messing with it. Wait till you get into the 3rd GEN lights. Even worse. They just want you to buy one, not mod one, LOL.

This might not apply to M@gs... but, regular hexagonal keys very often work on classic torx screws. I once re-aligned the door latches on a modern VW using hex keys, and those needed some force. This was borderline stupid, but no damage was done.

Just make sure your screws are hard enough, your tools are good enough, and your fit is close enough. And don't apply too much torque. And most importantly, give up unscrewing before screwing up. At that point you can still just get the proper tools and won't have to do nasty repair work.

It helps to have more than the most common millimeter sizes(or the most common inch fractions). IMO everyone needs both, and some in-between sizes.

I'm not trying to make an excuse to avoid getting the proper tools, but this approach also often helps with the problem mentioned earlier: You might have just the right size of torx and the oversized shaft wont't fit, but a typical hex key will.