Surefire.

Deputy_Dog · 2019-03-26T10:35:57.000Z

KawiBoy1428 said:

Never gave a Rat’s Ass what other people thought, never will….life is too short. Beer

I hear you, and to each his own, but, I just don’t get the “Quality” thing with Surefire. They brake when you drop them, just like the other brands, in fact (in my experience) maybe more.

A 6P Quad I carry, makes just over 4000lm……GuppyDrv3 Locked in one of the Tactical modes.

I tried something like that, but every time the light gets bumped it switches to another mode.

rookiedaddy · 2019-03-26T13:34:13.000Z

Just scored these today for ~USD25 each...NIB...

Top BK, bottom HA... gonna keep these at 100 CRI.

CREEXHP70LED · 2019-03-26T15:24:58.000Z

Deputy Dog:

Sounds like you just have bad luck. Of the 100 or so Surefires I have owned, only had one clicky tailcap go bad. They sent me two replacements. I have thrown, (slammed) one on the solid concrete shop floor as hard as I could throw, it still worked. It was an L1 Lumamax IIRC. It did crack the lens though but that was all.

CREEXHP70LED · 2019-03-26T15:48:51.000Z

rookiedaddy:

Just scored these today for ~USD25 each…NIB…

Top BK, bottom HA… gonna keep these at 100 CRI.

25 USD each??? You mean you stole them. Want to double your money ? LOL

rookiedaddy · 2019-03-26T16:05:44.000Z

CREEXHP70LED:

25 USD each??? You mean you stole them. Want to double your money ? LOL

:money_mouth_face: from a friend… he had 4 to let go… so I take 2…

Jack_Kellar · 2019-03-26T16:47:15.000Z

Surefires are okay… ish. They’re fairly reliable and look nice, but I’m not about to buy a single one for those two things when the insides are nothing but overpriced, outdated and underperforming American garbage.

The best thing you can do is as KawiBoy did and mod the hell out of any you got with diodes and drivers that are actually worth their price.

Deputy_Dog · 2019-03-26T16:44:43.000Z

CREEXHP70LED:

Deputy Dog:

Sounds like you just have bad luck. Of the 100 or so Surefires I have owned, only had one clicky tailcap go bad. They sent me two replacements. I have thrown, (slammed) one on the solid concrete shop floor as hard as I could throw, it still worked. It was an L1 Lumamax IIRC. It did crack the lens though but that was all.

I’m not talking about a “clicky tailcap”, mine don’t have them anyway. The main problem was mostly modules.

At the time the incandescent bulbs didn’t hold up at all and rechargeable batteries were not recommended. I’ve since replaced them with LEDs that work a little better, but, they aren’t made by surefire anymore, and at least now I can use rechargeables in them.

The_Last_Katun · 2019-03-26T16:53:09.000Z

Only one

CREEXHP70LED · 2019-03-26T18:39:23.000Z

rookiedaddy:

CREEXHP70LED:

25 USD each??? You mean you stole them. Want to double your money ? LOL

:money_mouth_face: from a friend… he had 4 to let go… so I take 2…

Does that “friend” still have 2 more to get rid of?

CREEXHP70LED · 2019-03-26T18:45:55.000Z

Deputy Dog:

CREEXHP70LED:

Deputy Dog:

Sounds like you just have bad luck. Of the 100 or so Surefires I have owned, only had one clicky tailcap go bad. They sent me two replacements. I have thrown, (slammed) one on the solid concrete shop floor as hard as I could throw, it still worked. It was an L1 Lumamax IIRC. It did crack the lens though but that was all.

I’m not talking about a “clicky tailcap”, mine don’t have them anyway. The main problem was mostly modules.

At the time the incandescent bulbs didn’t hold up at all and rechargeable batteries were not recommended. I’ve since replaced them with LEDs that work a little better, but, they aren’t made by surefire anymore, and at least now I can use rechargeables in them.

Yes, I was just saying the only problem I ever had was with one clicky tailcap. Yes, I always kept several spare bulbs for my incandescent M3 and M6 models. I had some other ones like the 6P but I preferred their highest output lights and never really had any problem with the modules either. Sure a few burned out, but not anymore than to be expected.

Tally-ho · 2019-03-26T22:05:18.000Z

Years ago when I was using mostly flashlights with P60/D26 drop-ins I was very tempted by the C2 centurion and Z2 combatlight but never took the plunge because of the price and the 2x CR123 battery tube that needed to be bored to accept 1x 18650.

I only bought pale copies : Xeno G5, Solarforce L2P & L2T.

rookiedaddy · 2019-03-27T01:15:15.000Z

CREEXHP70LED:

Does that “friend” still have 2 more to get rid of?

no more, the other 2 was sold within 2 minutes after posted in a flashaholics group… :innocent:

CREEXHP70LED · 2019-03-27T01:26:44.000Z

rookiedaddy:

CREEXHP70LED:

Does that “friend” still have 2 more to get rid of?

no more, the other 2 was sold within 2 minutes after posted in a flashaholics group… :innocent:

Yes, that does not surprise me one bit. Thank you!

elbakan1 · 2019-03-27T04:32:33.000Z

The cat is out of the hat.
My lights coming to this site in pics tomorrow, at this time more or less.

Please, guide me as to how to post pics in this site.
I’m 69 years young, and the computer was non existing in my time.

Ah, and don’t hold your expectations too high.
I have less than 100 Surefires. I’m almost sure.
I can vouch for more than 50 different models. Plus I have some duplicates.
I hope is enough.

Thank you for your help.

Cheers.

fazalmajid · 2019-03-27T12:36:20.000Z

BurningPlayd0h:

fazalmajid:

I keep a 6P with incandescent bulb around as a 100% CRI reference

FWIW incandescents are “100 CRI” but even using CRI as a color accuracy and rendering measurement should be and is quickly becoming a thing of the past. You’re already losing a huge amount of the visible spectrum under ~3000K

LEDs will be (and already are in the case of Optisolis I think?) exceeding other lights sources in full-spectrum lighting at every color temp.

Look at them under a spectrometer and you will revise that opinion. CRI is a very imperfect measure of spectrum quality.

As I said, I kept them only as a reference, e.g. when performing prism rainbow experiments for my daughter.

BurningPlayd0h · 2019-03-31T14:33:44.000Z

fazalmajid:

BurningPlayd0h:

fazalmajid:

I keep a 6P with incandescent bulb around as a 100% CRI reference

FWIW incandescents are “100 CRI” but even using CRI as a color accuracy and rendering measurement should be and is quickly becoming a thing of the past. You’re already losing a huge amount of the visible spectrum under ~3000K

LEDs will be (and already are in the case of Optisolis I think?) exceeding other lights sources in full-spectrum lighting at every color temp.

Look at them under a spectrometer and you will revise that opinion. CRI is a very imperfect measure of spectrum quality.

As I said, I kept them only as a reference, e.g. when performing prism rainbow experiments for my daughter.

Well that’s exactly my point, CRI is an imperfect measurement and tell only a small part of the story about a low CCT light like incandescents.

5000K Optisolis

A spectrometer only shows whether the colors are there at all, not whether they are properly represented vs sunlight or some other standard.

BlueSwordM · 2019-03-31T15:23:32.000Z

It’s not only CRI that matters, but also dynamic range.

Muto · 2019-03-31T16:40:36.000Z

Signal to noise ratio.

Capture ratio.

And Damping factor most important.

RobertB · 2019-04-01T17:02:57.000Z

I’m looking for a mint L1 Lumamax

You can use the money to put into your grandaughter’s 529 college fund!

elbakan1 · 2019-03-31T21:37:24.000Z

Obviously, nobody has any interest in seeing my Surefire collection.
Which is all good.

I’ve been able of not only building a display for SF,
but also a Maglite display.

I’m working on a display of Chinese junk too.

Don’t tell me how to post pictures, please.
I may finish the junk by the end of the year.

My mission is accomplished.

Cheers.

P.S. My granddaughter is coming next week.
She can post pics all over the ’net. At 8yrs old.
Maybe she’ll help grandpa.