it just switched off the other day. Look at the tiny thermal transfer surface from the led assembly to the aluminium case.
It’s name was Robert Polsen.
Do you name all your headlamps?
I voted for his brother Pat for president.
I name all my headlamps too so don't feel bad. Clearly you have the sickness....Welcome to the ward.
That’s comedian Pat+ Paulsen+ for you youngsters who has no idea what the hell he is talking about. Somewhere I have a picture taken of him at Michigan State University in 1967-68 while he was stumping for president (but running as a comedian). Neither of the genuine candidates had much to laugh about.
There are scads of cheap XML-T6 bike lights that use the USB cord connector and 5V DC. Maybe this one was just too cheaply made.
That one failed too…
Mine was a fight club (1999) reference with a misspelling! It doesn’t look cheaply made as far as I can tell these are well made from cheap components (I’m far from being an expert) just the thermal design is awful. Just not enough surface to dissipate any heat. Didn’t stop the light from 2 years of heavy use though. I recommend this cheap light with the caveat of you having to check the thermal paste every two years, and it’s cable being too short. I looked up that candidate, he’s obscured by time past enough for me not to know anything about him.
I watched vestureofblood’s video about re-flow soldering and I want to do it. I’ve been looking at bare emitters on Fasttech. Couple of noob questions:
- what happens if I put in a different emitter with the same driver?
- what if it’s rated at less lumens?
It kind of doesn’t make sense to repair such a cheap light, but I’m curious how this works. If I’m able to do it, I would jump straight into modding everything I have to something with a warmer tint.
I have this same light, though I haven’t had much luck with it because none of my USB powerbanks seem to provide the amperage it wants.
I am kind of curious if this uses a proper buck driver to turn the 5v input to ~3v, or if it uses some kind of super fet to burn off the extra 2 volts. I know some people here can tell by looking at the driver, but they all look the same to me!
P0603BDJ
66F002
are the larger components on it if you want to investigate further
How much does it weigh?
did the LED turn blue or simply driver died?
usually the driver is weak point likely not of heat just bad driver design
What to do in case of bad driver design?
Nonsense… look at those cooling ribs ! 
bad driver design by too small dimensioned parts
or bad electrical things happening, mostly because proper caps are not present
like voltage spikes
ringing
oscillation
usually electronics and LEDs can go up to 150°C, like say 100°C housing temperature
at 100°C you can radiate and conduct from that housing like 30-40W
Very interesting and informative. Thank you.
Just checked the price history for this headlamp from Aliexpress here. Hope matula bought it not for $10.10.
sheltonio: about 52 grams, but it’s inaccurate measurement (I only have a ruler, a 180gram object, and a fulcrum at hand in the moment)
Lexel: not sure, don’t remember the colour chainging though. Well, it was quite hot to the touch, but not 100 °C. Didn’t burn on contact.
sheltonio: I bought it for about 6 euros.
it’s always interesting to me how these quasi-free aliexpress stuff performs.
Ok then.
Thanks for the info.
Heat kills but on a bike light I'd say vibration and bashing light around isn't helping it at all .
I'd absolutely replace the emitter if indeed that's what has failed ..If you used the light for years what's another $5.
emitter swaps are the simplest way /easiest way to get the most bang for your buck.
I have a 2$ zoomie with an emitter so good it just doesn't belong there .. Just an emitter swap makes it become a light I want to pick up.