Testing max amps

I don’t think resting should affect the results significantly.

Hmmm just tried it, pretty accurate versus the amp clamp I have at work. I’m surprised because of the battery charger variables, consistency of the battery its self etc. Used a lil-500 charger and two batteries (30Q and hg2).

Yes, you wouldn’t necessarily expect it to work well, but the qualities of Li ion cells are such that it does. The Coulombic efficiency is very high for these cells and the termination method chargers use results in a consistent state of charge.

This method used with other cell types, NiMH for example, would not work very well to measure current. The Coulombic efficiency is not good; near the end of charge a lot of the charge going into the cell is used to split water and not towards charging. The H2 and O2 reacting to form water again is the reason NiMH cells heat up a lot at the end of charge. In fact, this is how chargers know when to stop charging; the increased cell temperature results in decreased IR which causes the voltage to drop. This “delta-V” is then detected by the charger.

A lot of great info my man, thanks for the heads up.

Did 2, 60 second tests and recharges on both lights, twice to make sure.

Klarus xt11s with Klarus 2600 battery, figured out to exactly 3 amps on both tests.

Nice, and probably very accurate, what its suppose to be. For some reason a tailcap meter amp test doesn't work on this light. Might have something to do with the other switch up front.

Also tested a c8 with a xpl hi on a noctigon, DD and the same Klarus 2600 battery. Got 2.38 and 2.40 amps. Almost exactly what my meter reads...

Looks like its time for a spring bypass..?

Just wondering why the Klarus draws 3 amps and the DD c8 only draws 2 amps, both with xpl hi emitters. Considering the c8 is DD and the stock Klarus xt11s probably has a 3 amp driver. Can that all be attributed to the springs in the DD C8 xpl hi..?

2.4A is pretty low. What I would do is measure the voltage across the LED while the light is on, to confirm that the LED forward voltage is not very high. Measure at the MCPCB solder joints. Then compare this value with the XPL HI measured in this link.

At 2.4A, the voltage should be around 3.3V. If it is, the emitter is probably fine and you know there is a lot of resistance somewhere in the circuit, most likely in the springs.

Got 3.25v @ the MCPCB solder joints, Springs…?

Yep sounds like it. Bypass those springs and you should get 5+A. Did you say this was direct drive, without a driver?

Did the spring bypass on the top spring, and re-soldered the star and spring board with #18 wire. Concentrated on big beefy penetrated solder joints. After stripping back the original wires thick insulation, wire measured out to about 40awg, didn’t like it. 18awg seems beefy but a little harder to work with.

Didn’t do the tail switch spring bypass yet, wanted to see what the front re-do accomplished.
Well, on my mm with 6” #10awg test leads, got 4.52 amps now.

Did a 60 second mAh test and got 2.40amps, just like before. Tried the 60 sec test again with a new battery, same thing, 2.4 amps.
Redid the tail mm test, still at 4.5 amps, hmmm.

The 60 second test you showed me is also good for troubleshooting since it shows the actual assembled amperage not bypassing the switch/tailcap…
So that leads me to believe the tail switch is the weak link, about to bypass that plunger switch/springy thing. Whats the best way to bypass that thing…?

what type is it? The kind that has a brass cap over the spring?

Yup, looks like a 1/2” long brass cap over the spring, maybe plated steel cap…? Then the switch has a thin steel strip the spring rests on. A plastic cap holds it all together with a screw in tail cap ‘nut’, no board.

I heat the brass cap with a small butane torch and solder a wire and the tip of the spring right into the cavity, then the other end of the wire fed through the spring and soldered directly to the switch tab. You have to be really careful soldering to the switch though, they melt really fast.

Thanks, thats exactly what I’ll try. I’m really good at melting things…

How can that tail cap switch cause such a large amp loss…? It looks like all good solid connections. I even looped the end of the spring thru the switch tab with no change in amp draw…

Wondering what tactile pressure switches do to current draw…?

You mean like used on firearms? They’re terrible with resistance, since you have all that wire leading to them too. And they often burn up at high amps.

There are springs that are huge limiters and some that are a little better, but I always bypass if I’m going direct-drive

Yes tactical firearms pressure switch. Knew I never liked them, but with this revelation it confirms that.

Any tips on the best way to solder that switch tab without a melt down.
Was hoping to solder the spring/wire onto that tab first, but then it will be lots more difficult to solder the cap on the end of the spring/wire…?

it’s long exposure to heat that will melt the switch internals. Use some good rosin-core solder, turn your iron up a little hotter than you usually use it, pre-tin the tab and the wire end, and quickly solder it together. Don’t let your iron be on the tab for more than 2-3seconds tops. I wouldn’t bother trying to solder the spring to it, just make sure the wire gets good connection.

Definitely do the brass cap first, or if the spring is long and sturdy enough you may be able to ditch the cap altogether

I am bit confused. Because with 10AWG fat, short cables and 18650GA/HG2 both batteries gave me accurate 9.7xx current draw with my Manker E14.

But when I check My Astrolux SS (Same as Kronos X6) it only gave me 4.1xx current. Some says it draws 4.8xx current.

And i checked my Nitecore MH20GT with Turbo mode it was maximum 3.XXX and never was more than 4/5 current. :frowning:

Does anyone know why? What might be went wrong?

Nothing seems wrong to me.

The E14 pulls more because 4 emitters draw more power from a single cell.

The SS/X6 pulls 4.1 on that battery for you, a different battery may get you closer to 4.8amps perhaps (or maybe not, different examples of the same model can give slightly different performance). The visual difference between 4.1 and 4.8amps is almost nothing anyways.

The Nitecore is not a direct-driven light, it’s designed to give a max of 1000 lumens, which takes around 3amps

Oh thanks brother, I did checked with 4 HG2 and 4 GA batteries ON my SS. Got the same result. Must be the model not my batteries.

And about MH20GT so it’s the right current. Smile

BTW I really really like your tail cap lighting. I do enjoy finding it at night easily thanks to your design. Smile

Got the tail cap spring/plunger all bypassed.
Did the 60second mAh test 3 times, and got 5.6-5.7amps…? And looks like its emitter xpl hi is about to go into super nova… How can it now draw more than it did with just a tail mm amp reading of 4.5 I got before…?