Omg TA, you’re gonna get different percentages hitting the tube walls before the first diffuser, it’s unavoidable. And like we both agree on the walls and flashlight absorb light.
The D4 frosted optic will retain a small percentage of light, 5? but not as much ad the difference in readings between my D4’s. Over 20!!! Even the floodier Nichia D4 read the same as the frosted XP-L HI. Your tube opening eats spill.
Boom, right there. Two examples that KG does not know how an integrating sphere works. I will try to explain.
The white side walls and reflective centering ring are all part of the “integrating” phase of an integrating sphere. All of the light needs to be “mixed up and stirred around” so to speak to even it out. This is why professional integrating spheres are actually spheres. The round shape allows the light to bounce around and even itself out before being read by the sensor. This is what allows throwy and floody lights to read the same.
And of course you will get different readings between a raw “mule” led and the same led in a reflector. When you add a reflector, lens and/or TIR optic the lumen readings will all be lower. Each if these things adds a loss in output. Different types of reflector finishes can result in a 15% to 30% loss of output. (Most decent ones seem to be around 20) Lenses are typically 1 to 5. TIR lenses can vary wildly from 20 to 40%.
Omg TA, you’re gonna get different percentages hitting the tube walls before the first diffuser, it’s unavoidable. And like we both agree on the walls and flashlight absorb light.
The D4 frosted optic will retain a small percentage of light, 5? but not as much ad the difference in readings between my D4’s. Over 20!!! Even the floodier Nichia D4 read the same as the frosted XP-L HI. Your tube opening eats spill.
Actually if you read back, Muakka saw about the same difference I did with the optics, 10-15%.
If I remember correctly you earlier said you saw a 10% difference between the optics? Maybe someone else can find it, I am taking heading out with the family.
If used properly the light hitting the walls in the integration chamber does not matter that much. A few percent change is expected but is also within margin of error.
This is a $100 lumen tube, not a $10,000 professional lumen sphere. You are not going to get ultra precision with that kind of difference in price. My goal was +/-5-7% from the start. I have never said otherwise.
This part has me worried, please post a picture of how you are testing the x45 and x80 in particular.
It sounds like you are not using the centering rings properly. which would indeed explain a lot.
You are discrediting yourself.
I don’t understand the charity part. ???
I’ve stated several times only a sphere will work to get a true reading, TA’s tube can’t wrap light around a circular object, his tube creates a sideways rotating effect that helps diminish the light. The light hitting a sphere slides down. Each light will give TA’s Pre-diffused chamber a different percentage of refection and thus can’t be fair.
My Aspheric shone 100% of it’s hotspot on the diffuser, my X80 around 50%.
Im also talking about frosted lens versus TIR lens in lights that have been tested to not read to far apart at turn on. Again twisting things to suit tube sales
On that note.
By all means, keep talking KG_Turning… you are removing all doubt.
Is that the entire sentence? Again, I don’t know what you mean. ???
Also, could you please make a short video showing how you are taking measurements? Or at least take some pictures. It would help tremendously.
I’ve sent pics to TA on how I use it. He was fine with it. It isn’t rocket science. He’s pestering again though which is bothersome.
Ive been told to get a proven light to use with the Texas_Ace calibrating tube, well I have. The Convoy S2+ 6500k as recommended by Maukka.
It read too low….
I’ll keep digging though. Chortle.
Actually, you’ve been asked to get a calibrated light by Maukka: WTS: Calibration lights for DIY integrating spheres / lumen tubes - 67 € -
Good. Is it one of Maukka’s tested, calibrated, & certified S2+’s??
If not, how do you know it is reading low??
I am having a hard time following your logic. ???
Why are you accusing me of twisting things (lying) to suit tube sales? Do you think I’m getting a percentage of the sales or something? No, I paid my money just like everyone else did. I also paid to cover the cost of the little correction discs which I didn’t have to… I recommend the TA Lumen Tube because I think they work great. The concept is well thought out. I also have a JoshK sphere which is a round style sphere and the TA Tube reads the same lights only about 3% higher. This is extremely close for two completely different designs and made by different people.
Ps, AKB is mhanlen on this forum. Here is his lumen tube.
Right, how could you have one when he has not even sent them out yet?
I suspect something is very wrong with KG. His ability to understand and follow logic seems greatly lacking. Or else he is just “punking” us. I’m not sure which.
All of his posts make it seem I’m in some surreal alternative universe, aka, nothing makes sense. I just have to laugh and move on.
Oh so if I’d gone out and gotten a 1000 lumen Fenix it wouldn’t have mattered because it wasn’t a Fenix sent by Maukka.
The spin continues….
I think you’re missing the fundamental fact that LEDs vary in output across any one flux bin by up to 14. That means every factory flashlight out there could also be off of its manufacturer’s stated output by 14, and that’s assuming they don’t do anything iffy like quote emitter lumens or calculated lumens or whatever. Your S2+ and my S2+ could be as much as 14% apart and nobody did anything nefarious to cause that, its just how emitter binning works. You just can’t get any more accurate than that without testing and calibrating each individual light, and very few manufacturers want to go to that much trouble. So yeah, if you want to calibrate any light testing device to within closer than 14%, you need a test light source of known output. Which is what Maukka is now offering as has been linked before.
It was a simple question when asked earlier… still simple now.
Is the S2+ you mentioned one that you got from maukka that he tested, calibrated, & certified it’s lumen output???
What are you even going on about? No one said any such thing. The spin starts and ends with you. You said people asked you to get a light recommended by Maukka when in actuality they asked you to get a light calibrated by him.
You quoted my post but didn’t actually reply. I’m…not sure what to make of that and have no idea how to respond. Did you have a question?
I have had several S2+ and they are within 14% of each other, obviously the difference is greater with my 3000k S2+.
When I tested my 6500k S2+ on the TA tube it was nearly 40% down on the manufacturer claim and just over 40% down on my estimate. I’m not sure if Maukka also averages 650 lumens give or take but it’d be interesting to know. They certainly ceiling bounce more than often quoted 1000 lumen Olight S2R.