The Bort thread šŸ”¦

True, my bad. I just verified under my Excel file for my budget, and I bought the light at sbflashlight.com

Paid exactly 73,19 CAD.

1 Thank

Thankfully that’s only $4.86 in usd
Great deal !

Good point, i shall borrow $73.19 CAD from you, and pay you back $4.86 USD :sunglasses:

:rofl:

Wow, the CAD really took a hit compared to the USD!
:stuck_out_tongue:

Saw this at Home Depot. Looks decent for muggles (didn’t buy one even though i’d enjoy playing around with it):

This has more lumens than any of my lights (current champion is 4000 lumen M3-C). Want to buy it but no cash to spare.

Also about to make that Illumn purchase, 6 batteries and two discontinued lights.

I have a TS21 with Anduril but it starts throttling the LED down to low within seconds even at only a couple hundred lumens or so of brightness, i assume the temperature regulation is screwy.

Is there a guide, preferably a video guide on how to adjust it?

7H in tempcheck mode, then enter the current temperature (1 click = 1 degree C). Best done after leaving a light for at least a few hours so the temperature can reach equilibrium with its surroundings.

Also, check what firmware version it is running.

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I need more basic instructions unfortunately.

Looking at the light’s specs, it claims to emit 2500 lumens for 3 hours, using a power source with 7.4 V and 2500 mAh. So I checked the math…

(2500 * 3) lumen-hours / (7.4 * 2.5) Watt-hours = 405 lumens / Watt

The theoretical maximum for white light is 300 lm/W. Premium LED torches sometimes get 150 lm/W, while budget ones are generally closer to 100 lm/W, and mass-market LED lights are generally more like 70 to 90 lm/W. And then there are also usually significant OTF losses for zoomies.

So instead of 2500 lm for 3 hours. I’m guessing it’ll probably be more like 550 lm for 3 hours. Maybe less. The only specs which look accurate are the battery capacity and the eco-mode numbers.

Click the button a bunch of times (15+) from off, and then write down the numbers it blinks out. This should reveal what firmware it has on it, which may be important. If necessary, do this more than once to make sure the numbers are correct.

That info is relevant if you want to reflash it, or to check if it’s running a version with known bugs.

Then to calibrate the temperature, the easiest way is a factory reset. Usually that’s ā€œloosen tailcap, hold button, tighten tailcap, release button about 5 seconds laterā€. It helps to do this when the light is at room temperature.

If you have settings you don’t want erased though, there is a manual way to do it too. Assuming you’ve got Anduril 2, the process is:

  • 3C from off, for battcheck mode
  • 2C to reach tempcheck mode
  • 7H to invoke the thermal config menu
  • Release after 1st blink
  • While it’s flashing, click about 20 times to tell it the current temperature is 20 C. Adjust to your actual temperature if desired.
  • Wait a few seconds for it to go back to tempcheck mode
  • 7H to get the thermal config menu again
  • Release after the 2nd blink
  • Click about 15 or 20 or 25 times, to set the maximum temperature to 45 / 50 / 55 C

Afterward, it should have sane temperature settings.

It also may help to check if it’s ramping itself down smoothly or if it drops in distinct steps. If it’s smooth, it thinks it’s overheating. If it drops by itself in steps, that just means the battery is low.

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Its a single 21700 5000mAh and 3 TIR LEDs, i would assume 100 lumens a watt on full. It holds full brightness for under 10 seconds then incrementally ramps down to maybe 100 lumens and stays there.

2 flashes
short
2 flashes
1 flash
short
6 flashes
short
6 flashes
short
6 flashes
1 flash
2 flashes

Pretty smoothly but you can see the steps on the wall if you look carefully, fully charged battery, maybe 2 cycles on it.

So, that looks like … version 2021-06-06, model 0612 (i.e. Sofirn SP36 w/ attiny85).

If that’s correct, I’m not sure where that build came from. I didn’t publish any builds that month, and I don’t see any other likely candidates in my build history, even with digits matched only approximately. I don’t see anything related to it in my logs either, and I keep, uh … pretty detailed logs. Like, detailed enough to know what I had for breakfast, and that I spent only 2 minutes and 55 seconds on BLF that day.

Regardless, that Version Check output gives a lot of info about what the light is and what to expect from its firmware. If I recall correctly, there aren’t any known thermal bugs from that time period, so it should work pretty well if the config values are reasonable. No known factory-reset bugs then either, so it should function normally after a reset. Thermal regulation will probably be a bit bumpy though, since it’s a FET+1 driver … and people’s runtime tests show it settling around 200 to 400 lumens.

2 Thanks

Rechecked, same result :astonished:

I’m impressed!

Will give it a whirl.

Did this, same problem.

BTW, when it ramps itself down, how low does it go? If it thinks it’s overheating, the lowest it can regulate down is level 65/150 (stepped ramp level 4/7), or approximately 130 lumens. So if it’s going lower than that, there’s probably some other issue.

My eyeballing guesstimate was 100 lumens so 130 seems to make sense.

My guess is the small head, triple LEDs and low temperature setting is making it throttle within 10 seconds. Though i don’t know what its set at.

The battery head is not warm if i remove it as its throttling.

Check this video out. You will need to find the section, but he shows you how to do it. This is for Andruil 2, but he has one for Andruil 1 too.