JohnnyMac
May 15, 2013, 8:24pm
21
Old-Lumens:
I don't have a thread about it. I have done it a couple times for thr Rooks, but only when I am switching to series.
Basically, I mod the contact plate first, to make it series. I think the photos show that, but I will try to describe it.
I take the original parallel contact plate and cut thru the back side contact strips, so that each of the three contact springs are now isolated from each other and from the original ground screws. Then I solder on a jumper wire to two of the contact springs, so they will form part of the series path. The third spring is the negative that will go to the tail cap and I solder on a copper contact and spring, so that the negative is in the center of the plate. That touches against the inside of the tail cap and I clean off the ano right there, so the contact is made. I also clean off the ano on the tail cap and on the body, where the two touch when the tail cap is screwed on. That makes the negative path complete and when the tail cap is unscrewed a 1/2 turn, the contact is broken, so the light does not turn on and parasitic drain cannot happen.
Of course, the rest of the series circuit lies in the upper contact plate I made and should be shown in the photos, (in this or one of the other Rook mods I have threads for here). Really, just think of the two contact plates as the top and bottom of a series battery holder and it should come to light (pun intended).
Thanks, Justin. Between that and the pics I should be able to make sense of it.
PyTech
May 17, 2013, 4:59am
22
I love reading these builds of yours. I learn alot and get some good ideas for my own builds.
MRsDNF
May 17, 2013, 5:40am
23
It makes me happy to read the above. I love his builds also but more often than not I usually get all dizzy trying to understand just a little off whats going on.
