The Tale of The Three Tools

LED Flashlights – General Info 1 x AAA Flashlights
1

I’ve had my Al LuminTop Tool AAA for a while now. Recently I was able to purchase the Cu and Ti versions of the Tool at great prices, which I did. They arrived this week.

This is mostly a pictorial look at the three versions of the Tool. I’m surprised by a few subtle differences between the three, and I’ll point them out along the way.

Note: In case it isn’t obvious, I purchased all three of these flashlights from retailers with my own funds, with no sponsorship of any kind from LuminTop.


Here we see the obvious differences between the 3 Tools. Made out of different materials (Titanium, Copper, Aluminum), they are silver, gold and black colored respectively. The shorter, soft touch, able-to-tailstand tail switch of the Ti differs visually from the more conventional mechanical clicky of the other two. Weight wise, Cu is the heaviest and Al is the lightest. The Ti clip is silver while the other two are black.


Look at the LuminTop etching, all three are different. The Ti version has the word TOP in reverse font. The Al version has a little curvy line under the word TOP. The Cu version has neither.


The Al version is only available with the CREE emitter, while the other two are available in the same CREE emitter, as well as the Nichia version.


The Al and Cu’s head can be unscrewed from the body, but not the Ti version. Knurling is also more aggressive on the Ti version.


The Al and Ti versions have consistent colors (black and silver respectively) from head to tail, while the Cu version has mismatched black clip and tailswitch boot. A gold or silver colored clip and a white or translucent tailswitch boot would look better. But that’s my subjective opinion.


All three versions lego perfectly with all parts, with each other. It’s a good thing.


Different packagings for all three versions. The Cu’s box is bigger to accommodate the flashlight being in a vacuum sealed bag to prevent oxidation. Otherwise, all three versions come with two extra o-rings and a lobster clasp.

2

Interesting the TI looks like a completely different light.

3

Great tale!

4

wow vacuum sealed fancy fancy lol. I have the Aluminum tool and i love it! It is one the best looking lights on the market and the output is also impressive throw a 10440 in it and its bright. Also the knurling feels nice.

5

What about the pill from the cu tool, is it made from copper, too? That would be the perfect heatsink for modding...

6

Thanks for the review, and very nice pictures! I just got my first Lumintop light yesterday; a brass/Nichia Worm. So far I like it very much, except for the M-L-H mode order. (I’d much rather it start in low.) Are the Tools the same?

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Yes the tools are the same. However, you can currently buy the ReyLight custom version of the Tool Ti which has a L M H order for $45 from gearbest (see link and coupon code in the main thread for that BLF custom light).

I’m very close to pulling the trigger on a Copper Tool for $27.

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I have got to say that I really like the Ti Tool from Rey. The mode order is right, it tail stands and it looks great. I have a copper also, if it would tail stand it would get lots of love.

Nice write up!

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Thanks for your such nice post.

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Thanks for the suggestion! I’m actually thinking about getting an 11mm guppydrv driver from Richard, so I can really customize the mode order. It’ll cost about as much as I’ve already spent on the light, but it’s still tempting!

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I bought an engraved Ti as a gift to my wife, for succesful completing an exhausting mandatory supplementary traning. People at Lumintop took great care of every minute detail. It is a real stunner! My wife likes it very much and I have told her about the use of the clip and the lobster claw. I now hope she stops carrying around the very Ltd SE I gave her in her coat-pocket between the loose change and dog biscuits.

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Where do you get that price for a copper tool ?

(pm if needed ! )

Thank you.

13

Great OP with pics. Thanks.
a couple more

fwiw, the Tool and Maratac heads also Lego. I was able to build up a Maratac with N219 that way, the one pictured is a favorite night light for me. The Clicky Maratac combo is also fully functional, and slightly brighter, though Low CRI.

fwiw, the Low on the MLH models is about 3 lumens (w Nichia), on the LMH models (w Nichia) the low is about 1 Lumen. The Medium and High modes are the same on both types. I personally prefer the MLH Tools for most applications (except middle of the night when I prefer the lower low of the LMH versions). For those interested in an LMH (ReyLight) version of the Copper Tool w Nichia, PM me. I have a brand new one, still factory sealed in foil. I would consider a trade for a new MLH Copper w Factory Nichia.

some color differences

Tool N219b, L11c N219b, Maratac XP-G2

most keychainable

The TiTool has a small battery in the electronic tail switch. When the light arrives from the factory, High mode does not work until about 20 minutes after putting in an AAA battery. I do not endorse putting a 10440 into a stock Tool as it has no overdischarge protection circuit, but for those who may be interested, the TiTool becomes High mode only.

I favor the Tools with Nichia, but for those into high brightness and 10440 done safely, Vinh will hotrod them
TiToolVN
CuToolVN

I would like that info too

you gave a very good tip on the TiTool version too:

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Nice post for a great light. There is indeed a lot to like about the Lumintop Tool

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I replaced a copper tail cap to the ti, prefer the machanical feeling.

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I tried both the TiTool and the CuTool. I sold the TiTool and kept the Copper. Both are nice, I just prefer copper.

I prefer the ease of use of the mechanical switch on the CU version, even though it is loud and does not allow tailstanding. I found the TiSwitch hard to use with my thumb and had to use my index finger. I also found the TiTool got hotter, especially at the Brass ring, on a 5 minute run on High. And I did not like that the TiSwitch has a battery in it that needed to recharge before High Mode would work when I first put a battery in the light.

here is selfbuilts TiTool review, and some selected comments

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?417505

[QUOTE=selfbuilt;4871195]Potential Issues

Efficiency of the Hi mode is lower than typical for this class, at least when equipped with the Nichia 219BT emitter. Med mode output shows decent efficiency and regulation.

The Tool Ti uses an electronic switch that has its own internal rechargeable battery. The standby drain is thus internal to the switch, and the drain to re-charge the switch is then in the low uA range from the main AAA battery (which is pretty negligible). However, there is an issue because the internal battery drains slowly over time (due to its internal standby drain), and it needs to be well-charged for the switch to work properly. It takes some time for the rechargeable battery to build up enough charge from the main AAA cell to allow all the modes to function properly. For some reason, if the light has been sitting for several days with no AAA battery installed, there is a reduced output of the Hi mode. Based on anecdotal reports, it seems that if you let the switch sit alone long enough, the Med and Lo modes could also be affected - right down to the light not turning on at all. But if you let it sit for an hour or so with an AAA battery inside the light with all contacts made, that is enough time to recharge the switch’s rechargeable battery, and give you all modes again.

While the interface may be simple, the functioning of the switch is anything but. Unusually, there is an internal rechargeable battery inside the electronic switch. While this limits the standby drain on the main AAA battery (i.e., the drain now is only to keep the internal switch battery fully charged), the tiny switch battery can’t hold a charge for long. This means that if you let the light sit for days or weeks without an AAA battery installed, the switch may not function properly - until the minuscule drain on the main AAA battery is able to re-charge it sufficiently (i.e., up to an hour or so). Expect reduced output on Hi, and potentially lack of operation, until the switch is recharged.

I would think risk of accidental activation is low.[/QUOTE]

btw, the pocket clip from the New Preon fits in the small gap that is present at the tailswitch of the TiTool.

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I am looking for a couple of those clips.

I think it has been determined that the device in the tail cap is a capacitor and not a battery. But yes, it can drain off but once full it is like a mechanical switch and will not draw any current, I don’t think. This has been discussed many times. I am thinking about designing a tailcap for larger lights with lithium ion cells that works the same way, I really like it.