What robust tool(s) are experienced modders using to loosen sometimes very tight/chemically locked retaining rings?
I got a set of Tekton snap-ring pliers for that. Pretty good quality (I haven’t snapped the pins off yet ), excellent customer service.
Why do people chew mashed potatoes?
So you don’t choke on the bones, of course.
Don’t forget the yogurt chewers
As a relative newcomer to this forum this has been a valuable thread for me. Both reading past posts and getting answers to questions I’ve posted. A lot of good information.
Thing is I think it would be a lot better if people stopped making jokes. It dilutes the information. If someone wanted to read past posts to see if their question has already been answered they’d have to sift through a bunch of blah blah blah.
I wasn’t going to say anything but maybe I’m not alone in this sentiment.
Anyways. Feel free to call me lame and a party pooper (or worse I don’t care). I’m a big boy. I can take it.
Ok I take it all back.
That is funny.
Point is: BLF is all about fun. Jokes are a big part of it.
You might have notices some threads that has a lot of off topic chatter. That is part of what makes BLF BLF.
It’s not that I completely disagree with you but it would make everything way too serious.
Are there any lights that use 14500’s with a medium mode and a long run time? I’m trying to find a small AA sized light that can run at 30-50 lumens for as long as possible.
The problem is most of the lights in this range only last around 7-8 hours on an alkaline/nimh, but if you jump to a 14500 they just crank the brightness up in medium mode rather than providing a long run time.
I’d love to get 12-15hrs out of a small light at 30-50 lumens for camping.
For comparison, a skilhunt h03 can run for 75 hours at 20 lumens on an 18650!!!
Are candy cigarettes and bubble gum cigars still made?
Yes, but you have to vape them now.
Total energy in a 14500 is pretty similar to an Eneloop NiMH, so I’d be surprised.
The advantage of the 14500 is the higher voltage and the higher brightness you can get as a result without incurring the inefficiency of an AA boost driver.
If you want maximum runtime at all costs from an AA light like that, your best option is probably to try putting a 1.5V Energizer lithium primary in it.
I’ve posted a couple of questions in this thread and received helpful answers, but I also like the lightheartedness of the thread - I think it makes it even less intimidating for novices to post their not-so-stupid questions.
In the flashlight world, is an electronic switch the same as a classic momentary switch? I am not talking about a flashlight forward-clicky momentary, but rather a
non-engaging non-latching, non-clicky momentary. I am strictly asking about the mechanics, not about the differences in what they do on a flashlight. If they are basically the same, in a flashlight such as the Q8, are they normally open or normally closed?
You can still buy the Zebralight SC52, which takes all AA chemistries, as well as 14500 lithium-ion. Mode levels are exactly the same between AA and 14500, with the exception that 14500 allows for a brighter maximum mode (the other levels are the same brightness).
You get about 8 hours at 50 lumens from an Eneloop Pro. I suspect that might be at least 10 hours on an Energizer Lithium. You can also get higher capacity 14500’s now, which might give you 10 hours. There’s a 25 lumen mode, and you’ll get your 15 hours on that with an Eneloop Pro, probably with a good 14500 too.
If you don’t insist on a dual-chemistry light, the Zebralight SC53 and SC5 are a bit more efficient than the SC52, so will get slightly better run-times.
I don’t think you’re going to find a 1xAA or 1x14500 light that will give you 12 hours on a 50 lumen level. That’s asking too much, right now.
Mechanical they are the same, but a momentary tail klicky has to carry a lot more amps. So it should be bigger, with better switch contacts.
If you buy a switch you had to specify:
Ampere, Volts, AC or DC, how many cycles
They are normally open.