I lube all my threads with a contact grease I use at work, its used to keep moisture out of terminals in refrigerated bodies. It’s supposed to be none conductive and it doesn’t short out, but i have no issues with poor contact on my lights.
You can ask Gary bunk how effective it is, he specifically commented on how nice the threads felt on a ke-5 he got off me, all I did was lube them with my usual grease.
what kinda grease is it?
its like ordinary cv grease in appearance, I think its made/packaged by rubolite. othervthan that I have no info on it tbh as the labels last about 5 minutes.
hmmm interesting… might have a couple things I can try… never experimented now that I think of it. just went with nyogel because everyone claims its the bees knees.
I didn’t go with nyogel because I like to use what I have about :bigsmile: pretty much, grease is grease, if it doesn’t eat the orings, its good.
agree with what foy said, grease will turn darker in bare alu thread. however it also happens in anodized thread. that's what I meant with filthy solution in earlier post..
I use these:
Nice Chicago!
I might add that within those "Types" and "Standards" there are "Classes" of fit.
For External Threads there are 1A, 2A & 3A Classes. For Internal we have 1B, 2B, & 3B Classes. If you go to the local hardware store and buy a common steel bolt & nut they are typically 3A & 3B classes. Thats why you can normally feel slack in the threads if you screw on the nut and then push / pull on the nut.
These Classes determine the real "Fit" of the external threads into the internal. My preference is to stay as close to a 1A, 1B thread "Fit" as possible. This will make the threads more or less glide together very smooth... just like the square threads folks like or in most cases even better than the square. It is harder to obtain this fit...but well worth the time spent. 
Dan.
What I wonder is, if the wear is there either way, but the lube let’s you see it better. I would expect more wear dry.