This is what I want in a budget light

Wish someone would do this in a budget light.

Perhaps add one more lower mode, perhaps not. Definitely no strobe! Something about this size with the 6 AA and perhaps an extension tube for a 9 AA option! I would love something like this but am not about to spend $95 on a flashlight when I already have 18650s. However, it would be great to have something with that long of run time and the ability to simply use AA and not have to worry about Lion!

Could really have a reflector package to give great throw. Couldn't someone take the head off an X9, make said body, add a decent 2.8 a driver and deliver this in the $40 range?

Am I the only one who thinks it would be a blow out seller?


I'm with you on this one

i would love to give my friends and family x-lm lights that run on AAs

OP, i totally agree. I've been considering a 3D mag mod to xml and AA but if I factor in the time to do the mod (even though it is fun) I could buy this light.

a side switch is a huge attraction for me, in any size, but especially larger lights

95.20 shipped isn't bad. They can keep the 14 (6 in it plus 8?) alkalines and take a couple bucks off...

If it was IPX8 I'd jump - and if the bezel/button/grommet were orange, even that wouldn't matter:)

could probably drive it a little harder once bored with it...

here are some more specs

the resources tab on that page has HQ version of the photos

but...the bottom line is, I'd pay the $10 or $20 extra for a tk41...

more AA budget lights please!

Side switches need to be incorporated much much more into larger budget lights. Is it really that much of a cost factor that we're stuck with tail switches on just about everything now? When I clicked the link that was the first thing that popped in my head. It is sooooo much more ergonomical.

I get the attraction of AA’s over D’s I think. Most of us have plenty of NIMH AA’s already. I totally agree there should be more budget lights with side switches as long as they are good (well made) side switches.

I think it’s crazy that every light has to have a tail switch, sharp bezel and strobe.

It seems to be Balder would be a good, high end budget candidate for producing an 18650 or multi-AA light with a side switch. They don't seem to be following the tactical style trend with their lights.

AA still wins over D because they're so popular, relatively inexpensive and already fit in chargers we own. AA and AAA have become the default standard. It's nice to have a standard because it's reliable and appeals to a broader user base, which means more options for us! Of course, D cells still have a place.



-Utilitech AAs, Lowes BF, 30 for $4 (last year even cheaper in 60 pack). CPF user posted AA battery tests, and these approach energizer performance. NiMH highly/locally available and roughly double primary capacity.

-I have headlamps, gps, flashlights, tent fans, hand held radios and a fish finder that take AAs - one compact container of batteries to take fishing/camping and if I run out, every store that sells batteries sells AAs

I think a 3d mag mod w/ 3 D NImh is awesome...but the cost of carrying a backup set of batteries is ~$25? If I mod my mag to 3x 4AA I can carry 15 sets of backup batteries for the same cost (ie spend a week w/o a power source and not give much thought to how long I run my light. yup, 3x4AA, If I do it, I'll bore it myself to get more current than I can from 3x3AA...

and as far as 30 minutes - well, to actually drop the right stuff in, maybe - but even if you get the stuff from one source, like the thread I saw where a guy sells the components as a kit (and includes a voltage monitor!), you're going to spend that long just reading the instructions...

bobk - I really can't disagree with you on any of that:) I've got AAA, AA, C, and Ds in nicad and nimh, plus 14500s, 17??? (salvaged from laptop batteries, no use yet), 18650s in li-ion, 3, 5, 7 and 17ah slas, etc.

the point is, everything has its purpose, I was just explaining what I do like about AAs:) If I were to gift a modded mag, to someone w/ a charger, I'd use Nimh Ds...

But....back to the OP's topic - if I see a clone of that dorcy for $60 or less I'll probably buy it:)

lower capacity is a turn off, so I only use them when I need a lot of cells, ie power tool batteries. But, I must admit, I have over 200 AA nicads. I found a box of portable phone batteries at a clearance store for $5, tore them all apart, added a drop of solder to the flat anode and wrote the mAH that my charger measured after charge/discharge on the side of each one. Still not sure wtf to do with them all lol

You probably wouldn't want them in your lights (even if you did I'd be embarrased to sell them). The plastic wrapper on many was damaged when tearing them out of the shrink wrap on each pack so most are touched up or entirely recoated w/ plastidip. there are (tiny) remnants of the tabs on the ends, and the (inconsistent) drop of solder on the anode makes them vary (just a bit) in length (although I've gotten fairly good at that now). The worst part is they are about 600mah.

I'm actually a bit under 200 cells total after giving a few dozen away. Funny thing is, I also have dozens of nicads that are the width of AA, but not the same length - some are roughly 1/4 shorter, others 1/3 longer. These were salvaged from a big box of handheld radio batteries they were going to junk at work. Still removing and cycling/measuring those. Some packs are all junk, some all good, most have ~20% bad cells.

I played around with making my own battery holders from PE pipe from Home Depot. There is a diameter perfect for AAs, and threaded PVC caps will self thread the pipe nicely if you just heat the pipe a little.

At some point I might make a big 12 volt battery in this manner, but for now its just so much easier to use my SLAs. The problem w/ the idea is the time it takes to identify individual cells that are bantam bc6dx can only measure one battery at a time...

might buy this

then I could test 4 at once...



Well thanks for one tip, anyway! It takes one of my projects off the back burner. I'm referring to the pipe threading trick. I have some PVC that I wanted to turn into flashlights, but never figured out an elegant way to make the tailcap removable. I built a P60 clone, and it sits in a drawer. Time to finish it!

Bob K


Might be tougher to do w/ PVC on PVC. The black polyethylene stuff happens to have an OD a few thousandths more than the ID of a threaded pvc cap, and it is much easier to heat than PVC.

But, you'll find that other stuff you can mix and match, ie pipe fittings can self tap to emt and pvc, and some emt fittings work well w/ pvc