ThorFire Official Deals- Save 45% on 500 Lumen TG06S flashlight($9.89), 6th Dec 2018 Updated

ImA4Wheelr · 2017-03-11T01:16:35.000Z

Lightbringer:

ImA4Wheelr:

Don’t worry. Thorfire will make you whole. They got right back to me with a generous solution. I told them I would be happy with just a 50% refund because I can make an alternative use for my lights. EDIT: Just PM the OP about your situation and he will get back to you soon.

I'm not looking for refunds (as I absolutely don't want to return the lights!), but asked if they'd have something like a copper disk to fit between shelf and LED, or the right-sized reflector to just swap in. I'd rather keep the lights and just fix them, rather than send them back. Figure something like that (a fix), made in bulk and dropped in the mail, would be cheaper in the long run than refunding people the purchase prices. I'd be happy with that, but can't speak for anyone else. Anyway, I'll see what's on the table when I get a reply. And will add that's a nice move on TF's part to just own up and offer to make things right.

Hi Lightbringer. I'm don't believe ThorFire will require or expect you to return the lights.

Lightbringer · 2017-03-11T05:38:16.000Z

ImA4Wheelr:

Hi Lightbringer. I’m don’t believe ThorFire will require or expect you to return the lights.

Yep, just got that in a PM. Will work it out through Amazon channels.

Even with the “wrong” reflector, they’ve got a great beam, so I can’t wait to see what it’s like with the “right” reflector!

Will have to figure out the dimensions of the stars+disc, try to whip up a Cu spacer on my own. Don’t really have the tools or a machine-shop, other than files and such to shape the critter manually (shaving it down if need be), so it might be a bit tedious.

The_Miller · 2017-03-11T13:29:41.000Z

I think the way to go would be
Get two copper DTP stars
Put a little solderpaste between them, and where the led goes
Reflow led and join the two in one go.
But I don’t have this light only an original second run bought from member X3 and I like it a lot

Lightbringer · 2017-03-11T16:29:20.000Z

The Miller:

I think the way to go would be
Get two copper DTP stars
Put a little solderpaste between them, and where the led goes
Reflow led and join the two in one go.
But I don’t have this light only an original second run bought from member X3 and I like it a lot

Would still have to shave off the dielectric, but imagine it’s less tedious than trying to shave down a Cu blank.

sac02 · 2017-03-13T16:37:47.000Z

I was oblivious to the latest developments in this thread until just now. I ordered a couple VG10 during the group buy, I just checked tracking and they are scheduled to be delivered today. I’ll open them up and see what the guts look like, but I guess I should anticipate it will be :POOPEMOTICON: I will report back with my findings tonight…

But it seems like Thorfire is trying to make it right, which is what matters. For now I will give them the benefit of the doubt until proven otherswise. I will contact them and give them the opportunity if I have concerns.

vwpieces · 2017-03-13T18:04:35.000Z

There is a Bright side to the VG10’s that have the stack of crap under the emitter….

Parts for the Convoy M2 will fit. Here is my latest VG10 using the M2 Quad spacer from kiriba-ru. I have not tried the M2 reflector alone but will in a few minutes. Theoritically it should work and I have a couple spare reflectors from M2 quad builds. And just a heads up… I did have to reduce the OD of the brass ring that came witht he M2 quad parts to fit inside the head of the VG10.

Also I tried to swap heads onto a VG10 that did not have the crap under emitter with one that does and they do Not thread together… No-Lego.

ImA4Wheelr · 2017-03-13T19:00:36.000Z

^

Wowser! Love what you did there. Thanks for the lego info too.

sac02 · 2017-03-14T00:42:07.000Z

Same as others.

Spacers under LED star
blemished reflector
chipped lens

XXX-Man · 2017-03-14T19:46:37.000Z

Any solution found for replacing that “spacer” with something?

I could always make something, but don’t have tools.
Already made solution would be perfect.

sac02 · 2017-03-14T20:23:25.000Z

Despite the issues with the current batch, I still like the VG10 and would be interested in placing another order. If I placed another order before the GB closes on 3/21, would I receive lights from the same batch with the bad LED spacers? Or could it be confirmed that I would receive units from a good batch?

Lightbringer · 2017-03-14T23:42:20.000Z

sac02:

But it seems like Thorfire is trying to make it right, which is what matters. For now I will give them the benefit of the doubt until proven otherswise. I will contact them and give them the opportunity if I have concerns.

Just curious…

Has anything happened as far as those who ordered lights through Amazon? Last PM left off with me offering the 2 order-IDs from Amazon (because how else can they know who ordered what, naturally), but got nothing in reply since.

Am I supposed to grex through Amazon under “contact seller” or raise a complaint (“product not as described”) or something? (The latter sounds kinda negative, so I’d want to avoid that unless specifically told by TF to go that route.)

Only reason I’m getting antsy is because I just got a new fancy card in the mail with the chip inside, and has a completely different number and everything, so if the offer is to toss me some bux to the old card on which I charged the lights, that’d be defunct once I activate the new card.

Lightbringer · 2017-03-14T23:44:19.000Z

XXX-Man:

Any solution found for replacing that “spacer” with something?

I could always make something, but don’t have tools.
Already made solution would be perfect.

Sounds like kiba-ru might be able to make a quick killing with perfectly-dimensioned and drilled Cu spacers!

ImA4Wheelr · 2017-03-15T01:11:35.000Z

^

Hope you get resolution soon LB. Please keep us posted.

XXX-Man:

Any solution found for replacing that “spacer” with something? I could always make something, but don’t have tools. Already made solution would be perfect.

You could get 2 or 3 pre-1982 US pennies, clean them and pound them flat. Once you have them to the diameter you want, you can stack them to see if they get you high enough. If they are a little shy, reflow them to each other and that will increase the height some. If you don't want to reflow, thermal paste should do. If too tall, pound them some more and file the perimeter to get to fit in the head again.

sac02:

Despite the issues with the current batch, I still like the VG10 and would be interested in placing another order. If I placed another order before the GB closes on 3/21, would I receive lights from the same batch with the bad LED spacers? Or could it be confirmed that I would receive units from a good batch?

Good question. Also, maybe ofter the remaining lights for sale as hosts. They will sell fast if the price is reasonable.

mapache · 2017-03-15T01:22:24.000Z

The dtp copper stars from KD might make good spacers. The di layer disolves in fuel from memory.

Lightbringer · 2017-03-15T01:46:25.000Z

ImA4Wheelr:

Hope you get resolution soon LB. Please keep us posted.

<sigh>

It gets even more fun…

I just got another 3 I ordered a while ago, never opened the boxes yet. Just for s&g I decided to do that, test them Just Because, as the first 2 I got worked perfectly.

First one seemed DOA. Took the 30Q from the VG10 I carry in my bag, so it’s known-good. Half-press the switch, nothing. Full-press the switch. Still nothing. Loosen then snug up everything. Hmm, unwanted TCLO? Unscrew the tailcap, take off the tac-ring, replace, press. Still nothing. Bugger. Press HARD, repeatedly. Aha! Momentary bright flashes! Random flickers and flashes, reminds me of the problem I had with one of my recent F13s. “Bypass” the switch with a key (cell to body), and it seems to work fine, nice and steady, good mode-switching. Seems like a bolloxed switch. Eyeball the switch, and it looks like one of the unscrewing-holes on the retaining ring is drilled out bigger, and someone let the drill-bit wander along the ring. Hmmm… Not Good.

Second one seemed to work fine.

Third one, a half-wonky switch, some “missing” and flickering. Not as bad as #1, but enough to make me nervous.

Okay, my confidence is a bit shaken. Damn! I figured a quick patch-up would get them working fine, but now I’m not so sure. Without replacing the switches (any heavy-duty FC Omtens out there??), I’m not sure I could put together reliable hosts.

Anyone else have issues with the switches?

vwpieces · 2017-03-15T02:06:37.000Z

The retaining ring on the finicky switch may be too tight. Had that before on the Square bodied SW in a TF. Think the spacer squeezes the SW body too hard. May understand when you open a tail sw and see the plastic ring design.

mapache · 2017-03-15T02:07:52.000Z

Do these group buy lights not come with spare switches and lenses?

Prometheus · 2017-03-15T02:08:12.000Z

TF offered to send me a replacement or refund. i want a good light rather than money of course. i specifically asked for a “normal” one, one without two spacers. and the next email i got from them telling me that the light has been sent out already. i hope they understand what “normal” means. fingers crossed.

Lightbringer · 2017-03-15T02:31:21.000Z

vwpieces:

The retaining ring on the finicky switch may be too tight. Had that before on the Square bodied SW in a TF. Think the spacer squeezes the SW body too hard. May understand when you open a tail sw and see the plastic ring design.

Hmm, that jogs some memory for some reason… maybe those cheapie 3×AAA lights. Squeeze it too tightly and it stops working, that kind of thing.

Hmm, may be a blessing in disguise. Thinking about replacing the switch with the spare, I’m now wondering if one of those FC switches would fit into the tailcap of my (RC) ’502. That’d be totally tits!

vwpieces · 2017-03-15T02:37:04.000Z

Lightbringer:

vwpieces:

The retaining ring on the finicky switch may be too tight. Had that before on the Square bodied SW in a TF. Think the spacer squeezes the SW body too hard. May understand when you open a tail sw and see the plastic ring design.

Hmm, that jogs some memory for some reason… maybe those cheapie 3×AAA lights. Squeeze it too tightly and it stops working, that kind of thing.

Hmm, may be a blessing in disguise. Thinking about replacing the switch with the spare, I’m now wondering if one of those FC switches would fit into the tailcap of my (RC) ’502. That’d be totally tits!

Could also be the plastic spacer ring is upside-down. As said you will see what I mean when you get in there.
Another pet peeve of mine it to slice the nipple inside the rubber tailcap so it does not apply any pressure to the sw button. Especially on an omten 1288.