Thorfire TG06S Full Package / Full review

Lightbringer · 2018-03-10T19:51:37.000Z

Hmm, just tried the code, doesn’t work.

Bummer.

eas · 2018-03-10T20:16:58.000Z

Same here. Just as well. I was thinking of suggesting this deal to a friend, but I’d probably have bought one for myself, too…

pennzy · 2018-03-10T20:39:57.000Z

It works for the light only

Amazon Deal Alerts & Discussion Thread BudgetLightForum Deal Alerts

The $9.99 tg06s deal is back Thorfire tg06s @ 9.99 on Amazon 40% OFF Coupon Code: 8YGYJ38C

eas · 2018-03-10T20:40:22.000Z

FWIW, the listing for the bare (no battery or charger) TG06S has a 40% offer on Amazon right now.

Lightbringer · 2018-03-10T21:01:40.000Z

Yeah, but I wanted to try the kit.

Actually, was just looking and I see that the order is high-to-low, not low-to-high. Hmmm. Not really a fan of being blinded at night when I want low or even moonlight/firefly. That’s a bit disappointing.

robo819 · 2018-03-10T22:08:47.000Z

pennzy:

Did you check the charger for ending voltage and charge rate? Always starts on high , no memory?Always like the music.

The ending voltage listed in the chart in OP (2.73) …….didn’t check charge rate.

robo819 · 2018-03-10T22:10:27.000Z

I emailed Thorfire about the code not working on the package last night……No reply yet

GreenLights · 2018-03-10T22:21:55.000Z

H-M-L and according to the Amazon page you MUST use a button top if using 14500. Bummer.

Persechini · 2018-03-10T22:23:22.000Z

Anyone has both this and the sofirn SF12 to compare? I know it has the same mode, forward clicky, emitter, but I fell like my SF12 is terribly machined, and the retaining rings get loose every once in a while, making it by far my most failed light. I’d like to know if the thorfire version fares better

robo819 · 2018-03-10T22:32:02.000Z

GreenLights:

H-M-L and according to the Amazon page you MUST use a button top if using 14500. Bummer.

I just tried the Flat top Windyfire’s I have , they work fine and it takes a heck of a jolt straight back to get a blink out of the light. The Efest and AWT High drain button tops wont loose contact at all and of course the protected cell that came with it is even a little longer.

EDIT: I can see where it could be a problem if you use a cell that is not raised at all on top (the windyfire is very slightly raised) but the driver end is really flat where the cell makes contact so yea a button top may be best for safety really.

robo819 · 2018-03-10T23:17:50.000Z

I updated the OP but it looks like they are doing the light ONLY and not the package for the 40% off with the coupon code ………. 8YGYJ38C
I will update again when I hear anything else from them on this.

Blackbeard · 2018-03-11T00:32:49.000Z

this is the one with bad pwm?

robo819 · 2018-03-11T00:40:38.000Z

Blackbeard:

this is the one with bad pwm?

I am not sensitive to the PWM but I just checked using a fan with 4 different speeds and also my video camera monitor and I cannot see any with either in any of the modes.

Blackbeard · 2018-03-11T01:01:51.000Z

thx, maybe it was a different model, thought I saw some reviews about that

robo819 · 2018-03-12T05:49:23.000Z

Don’t shoot me I am just the messenger but……….

Just an update on the 40% off code …… Light only for the 40% off using code (USA ONLY)………. 8YGYJ38C

hiker89 · 2018-03-12T14:38:08.000Z

Hey robo,

Thanks for the great review!

One thing makes me hesitate.

Do you think the discrepancy between listed lumens on Nimh and actual lumens with an Eneloop Pro was a mistake with your light or would other lights also exhibit the same behavior? Its really weird that a manufacturer would under list the performance on turbo by 50%. 150 lumens on a good Nimh is kinda sad but ~300 lumens is pretty close to Utorch UT01/klarus mi7 territory. Maybe the 150 lumens refers to alkaline only?

If it produces 300 lumens on a nimh I’d instantly buy a few. 150? Not so much.

robo819 · 2018-03-12T16:13:07.000Z

Always glad to do the reviews Hiker…….

I just rechecked on the meter with the NiMH and the 14500’s , readings are almost identical to the first test.
With a new Duracell copper top I got 233 Lumens.

I don’t have a clue if it is all the lights or if I just got a fluke , but mine is staying consistent.

I checked a couple of other lights on the meter that I know the lumens are correct on also to be sure my meter battery wasn’t running down or anything , all seems to be spot on with the meter.

hiker89 · 2018-03-12T16:45:28.000Z

Thanks Robo!

For 10 bucks what the heck its worth a shot. The great thing about inexpensive AA lights is that if the output isn’t quite up to par you can always re gift it to someone!

eas · 2018-03-12T22:02:09.000Z

I wouldn’t worry too much about the discrepency you’ve observed, hker89.

While lazyness, mistakes or outright dishonesty can come into play, there are plenty of much more benign reasons for differences between a manufacturer claim and an independent test.

In this case, I think you’ve probably already hit on the likely source of most of the discrepancy. If you check ThorFire’s description, they don’t specify the chemistry of the AA cell tested. I’d guess, and robo819s retest suggests that they were probably testing with Alkalines. Not surprising, since a NiMH cell can deliver a lot more power (watts) than an Alkaline.

Another factor is that the numbers may not actually mean the same thing. I don’t know about robo819, but a lot of people test with a topped off cell. It’s the easiest way to make sure different tests are being done at similar state of charge. A downside is that it doesn’t give a very clear sense of whats typical. I can’t say for sure, but from comparing manufacturer claims to peoples tests of lumens at a given current and forward voltage, its clear to me that the number some report is more like the output when the cell is at its nominal voltage (3.6-3.8v). This is in many ways a much more useful number, but it can be harder to test for.

robo819 · 2018-03-12T22:29:14.000Z

Yes I do test with the cells topped off always so I get the most consistent numbers and all cells are at their peak.

The run time testing is where I show what the cell is doing as it progresses, (as noted in charts in OP) as far as output.
I do not stop the testing once I turn the light on however to do any checking on the voltage or anything , as I always just turn the light on in the highest mode and then take measurements at the step down (sometimes at 30 seconds depending on light) and then usually at 15 minutes and 30 minutes and every 30 minutes after that until the Low Voltage warning , or cut off, and then check the voltage at that time.