Hey guys! I got this thorfire vg-10, that I modded. It has a blf direct drive, spring bypass on driver and tailcap, aswell as a dedomed xm-l2. I don't know the output, but I would guess 1000+. It is a real pocket rocket, edc monster, good beam, good throw, and flood, best of both world really. Maybe it will get an xhp50 soon? Now for some pics.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/yyscersu2axurg6/AAAY41LMy3f8uxpSD1MuUt_Ya
Looks nice. Should be a nice useable light as well as pocket rocket!
I have a small concern, though many do not agree. It has happend to me, when bypassing the outside of the spring on the driver side. It broke loose and caused a short. The light was hot enough for me to throw it down in about 15 seconds. I grabbed a rag and unscrewed it. Scared me a bit. Now I only bypass driverside springs through the center of the spring.
However, I know that there are many here that do the same as you without problems.
Well that’s interesting, never happened to me lol. The light is indeed very useable.
Yikes!! So the solder on the spring cracked and the loose wire ended up bridging +B to the ground?
I’m the same way…it’s best to always bypass within the spring. It doesn’t take but another minute or so to de-solder the spring, solder your wire to the driver, re-solder the spring, and solder the wire to the top of the spring…makes it a whole lot safer.
Well, I guess I’ll do that. Planned on it first, but it was a bit fiddly to get it in “there” you know.
There’s a small gap at the base of the spring (the end of the coil) when the spring is on the driver. If you take a stripped and tinned piece of wire and feed it down the spring you can solder it at that gap without removing the spring, fairly easily. Then you can compress the spring and wire to get the bend, cut to length, strip, and solder at the top of the spring in the gap at the end of the spring coil. This makes for incredibly strong joints and a smooth and even surface for the battery to contact.
I’ve had much success bypassing inside the spring. 
My VG-10 has the Blf-A6 driver and led. It’s a much better host than the A6. You are probably making quite a bit more than 1000lm I imagine. The A6 was rated for 1600lm as max with the fet driver
yeah, but probably less because of the dedome?
The VG-10 is a great little flashlight very well build.
If you are using the Panasonic NCR18650B in your picture, an easy way to boost output would be to use a high drain battery.
You will notice a huge performance increase with high drain cells. You have on the way? You could also try a XPL de-domed in there.
yeah tried with the hg2 cell, no difference compared to the panasonic 18650b. I think it doesn’t pull enough amps to make a difference high drain and regular.
Really that’s weird. It’s probably doing about 5-6amps. The de-doming should of made the tint better.
yeah, the tint went from neutral white slightly blue to a nice yellow/ white, warm white tint.
have to test the amps with a multimeter.
Yea try a with a few different cells. Measure the tail cap current.
I bought the hg2’s in Finland, and I know they’re real, seems weird though.
The more current into an led the less returns you get after a certain point. So running the xml2 at 4.5amp or 5.5 isn’t huge difference only a few hundred lumen max.
But if you have lights that are at like 4amps and ones at 5+ with the same emitter ls side by side you may notice.
Right now for max output of a single die LED the XPL is king. The XPG3 does well also.
The XPG3 in my C8 does 8amps it must be around 1800 lumens.