Using Nyogel 767a Im also getting smooth with no grittyness w more or less resistance, depending how much I use.
I like to be able to adjust the control ring brightness with one finger, deliberately, but I dont like too low dial resistance that will let me bump the brightness by mistake, when I dont mean to.
The damping effect of 767a is excellent, in both my recently modded Original RRT-01, and my V11r. In both lights, the amount I used the first time, only a couple dabs in the groove in the control ring:
gave slight damping, and when I doubled the dose by adding 767a to the other half of the dial, the damping increased proportionately, in a way that I like.
I especially like that the 767a smooths out the grittyness of the ball bearing on the RRT-01… The V11r is easier, no ball bearing…
With the damping grease, that was my experience also. The more you add the more resistance it offered in ring rotation.
I think me and you like about the same feel in the ring. I want it to turn smooth with some resistance but not too much.
If others are repacking their grease on these rotary lights, just experiment a little to get the feel you like.
If it turns to freely add more grease, if it is to hard to turn take a little out. Find what you like and go with it.
Since Sunwayman is gone,someone know if there is compatibility with the Driver of RRT01 on the room head of V11R? In addition to the dimensions, it’s necessary to verify that the magnetic control will work correctly
The Sunwayman driver is a single pcb driver, the RRT is a double stack PCB driver. The top PCB on the RRT driver will not fit down inside the Sunwayman driver cavity, its to tall to fit. There’s not enough material there to remove to make it fit.
I have never found a driver replacement for the Sunwayman’s. The only option would be to purchase another V11R since they were the cheapest of the rotary lights. Most of the components on the driver can be purchased and replaced if bad. From what I understand about the datasheet of the 316BCG rotary position sensor it has to be programmed, so it may not be able to just be replaced. In my experiences the PAM2803 is what usually dies on these drivers. More info How to Mod Sunwayman V11R or V10R Driver For More Current
^ Looks great, Jon. I really love this host. Kind of regret never bothering to get one. TCR-1 was on discount for a brief period before vanishing from retail stock, but at that time I still considered it too pricey.
Happy to hear again you Moderator and thanks for tried.
My V11R driver work but there is an issues at about 3/4 of rotation it start to flicker,during progression the problem disappears but brightness doesn’t increase anymore.That happen with AA doesn’t have lithium atm. I’ll read your guide,checking driver,contacts and the magnetic ring
Hi guys which newer RRT01 driver should I order from Jetbeam for the replacement? It is good to buy some spares in case they discontinued the production of RRT01. I got the 2011 version. Thanks!
I prefer the 2011 and 2012 original drivers. they are less likely to flicker visibly at sublumen outputs. The 2012 version added strobe.
2011 and 2012 drivers cannot be purchased anymore.
you can buy as a backup, either
2019 driver, it has higher output, but can flicker visibly at sublumen levels
or
2020 driver, it has same higher output, plus thermal step down, it can also flicker visibly at sublumen levels
it is not documented anywhere, just my own observation of a few of my lights, and confirmed by a friend who owns about 5 RRT-01, that he upgraded to 2020 drivers…
you be the judge, if you cant see it, I would not worry
Luck of the draw. My 2012 RRT01 flickers on sub-lumen output, both my EYE10 and 2019 RRT01 don’t. All three have been serviced, i.e. taken apart completely, got new LEDs and silicon grease.
The flicker/pulsing is really strange. I estimate its frequency at about 20 Hz, but what generates 20 Hz? Or is it beating, i.e. two clocks being slightly different?