I just got my SF L2 and i’m thinking about modding it a little bit. I want to add some tritium to it, but can’t quite find what i’m looking for. If any of you are familiar with the L2, mine has the “tactical” or crenelated bezel. On the inner diameter of the bezel there are little divots, I believe they are 5mmx3mm(guesstimation). Does anyone sell tritium “chips” or vials that small?
The L2 i got came with an XML2-U2 drop in, 3 modes(high, medium, low), memory. I think one thing I want is a smooth reflector to increase the throw a bit. I just don’t know if it will be worth it. The beam is nice and smooth, plenty bright. Would de-doming make more of a difference, or would the combo of smooth reflector and de-doming blow me away?
I know solarforce sales claims 980 lumens, but it’s realistically around 300 i that. Would running two 18650’s instead of just one increase the lumen output or just the runtime? What would it take to make this thing put out 8-900 lumens, if it’s even possible.
I’m going to add a pocket clip/lanyard ring, a battery extension tube, and a new tail switch.
What kind of battery are you using? That can make a big difference, i.e., a junk battery that can’t hold voltage or provide enough current just won’t power a light brightly.
Depending on the drop-in (check that the voltage range), you could use 2 x 18650 or 2 x 16340 batteries (the latter would physically fit in a 1 x 18650 battery tube) to see if that improves things, but again, be sure that the drop-in can take 2 Li-ion batteries, otherwise, you’ll end up with dead driver or emitter or both.
The drop in is a Solarforce xml2-u2, which is supposed to be able to handle 2 18650’s. I’m currently running a Keepower 2600mah 18650(ICR18650-26F), protected from Illumination Supply. I’m waiting on a new meter from amazon so I can test the cells from an old laptop battery. I wouldn’t use more than one of those at the time though. They don’t want to charge in my nitecore i2 though, so they’re probably bad.
The Keepower’s should be good for 5.2 amps (2C), and IS is a pretty good/reliable supplier, so I don’t think that that’s your issue (if there is an issue). When you get your new meter, try setting it up for current measurements (you usually need to move the red lead to the “10A” position), then try to remove/unscrew the tailcap from L2, and touch the black probe to the - end of the battery, and the red probe to an unanodized part of the L2 body, and see what kind of current reading you get. This is called the “tailcap current”. Post back when you have that.
Oh I wasn’t saying there was any issue with the light. I have what I call “Tim the Toolman Taylor Syndrome”. I have to tinker, and make everything work better than it did. I was just wondering the best way to push the current setup to the “safe” max. It’s much brighter than I need. But there’s always room for more.
You could try soldering solder wick to the spring/springs. That’s suppose to reduce resistance of the springs ==> more current through to the driver/emitter.
My dad gave me his old Fluke 30 clamp meter a long time ago. Would this be suitable for checking batteries and lights? It seems to be a bit big for such small currents. Its setting are 600v, 200v, 200ohm, 400a, and 200a.
Edit: never mind, I just read the manual. It only measures ac current.
The solarforce dropin will be a bit brighter and run linger with two cells.
Xml in a p60 isn’t great for throw, xp series and xre would be better. Keep in mind p60’s aren’t superb throwers. Smooth reflector does help though.
Solarforce parts are addictive get as many as you like. The l2t head is a very nice head.
The drivers in solarforce hosts don’t show actual emitter amps I don’t think, you’d have to desolder one wire from the star and put your meter in between.
Tritium vials are expensive, your best bet may be to get a quality glow powder and mix it with clear epoxy and put it where you’d like, can be messy.