TK's Emisar D4V2 review

Boro · 2020-12-24T14:21:03.000Z

zoulas:

Garik F:

I guess my question has been asked million times before here, but I will ask anyway. What color temperature should I choose for the XPL-HI? 4000K or 5000K? Which one has the best tint? Which one looks «brighter»?

Almost all of my flashlights are 4000K and many are hi cri, but I don’t mind 5000K.

There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.

BEST ANSWER!

Garik_F · 2020-12-27T09:34:37.000Z

zoulas:

There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.

Tom E:

I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It’s beam’s tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it’s about the best beam/tint combo out there.

Thank you for your answers!

Still thinking, but I’m inclining to 4000K, not 5000K, even though they both not ho cri and I can go to “more bright” 5000K

BurningPlayd0h · 2020-12-27T23:50:32.000Z

Garik F:

zoulas:

There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.

Tom E:

I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It’s beam’s tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it’s about the best beam/tint combo out there.

Thank you for your answers!

Still thinking, but I’m inclining to 4000K, not 5000K, even though they both not ho cri and I can go to “more bright” 5000K

The difference in brightness will be completely unnoticeable. The 5000K might seem a bit higher output since higher color temps are a bit harsher, but even on paper they’re extremely close in output and the 5000K won’t actually illuminate anything better.

wle · 2021-01-19T02:40:48.000Z

TK (or any owner) - that switch on the D4V2, can you describe it?

Is it similar to what Manker uses in the U1?
Theirs is a soft rubber dome (which can come loose),
over a beryllium/copper dome,
over a pair of contact pads.

If the dome does come off, the beryllium thing gets lost and the switch is done for
and because og Manker’s assembly, you cannot replace it, and probably could not find the right part.

How similar is it, to that?

wle.

thefreeman · 2021-02-06T17:07:45.000Z

Hello,

Does anybody know the dimensions of the driver cavity ? (Diameter and height clearance for components)

pint · 2021-04-17T23:09:03.000Z

I relay enjoyed using this light, but now for some unknown reason the switch has stopped responding reliably, sometimes it works and the light functions, but most of the time no response, checked it, made sure it wasn’t in muggle mode, re set it but still, click click nothing - most of the time

thefreeman · 2021-05-01T19:56:14.000Z

thefreeman:

Hello,

Does anybody know the dimensions of the driver cavity ? (Diameter and height clearance for components)

Answering myself :

driver Ø = 22.0mm
driver cavity Ø = 22.3mm
components cavity Ø = 19.5mm
components cavity height = 2.7mm

I got one in cyan, it looks very nice, this is my first D4v2, the tint is not very good though (SST-20 4000K):

Lvl1 duv 0.0047
Lvl3 duv 0.0049
Lvl7@30s duv 0.0044
(I didn’t test turbo)

They’re probably not using FA3 bins anymore.

Night_nday · 2021-05-01T20:06:21.000Z

Damn, i have 2 sst-20 d4v2 in the mail .

KJD21 · 2021-05-17T16:39:04.000Z

Why was the short tube made so you can’t use the lanyard ring?

Nvmd….wrong thread!!!

pint · 2021-06-11T16:18:48.000Z

pint:

I relay enjoyed using this light, but now for some unknown reason the switch has stopped responding reliably, sometimes it works and the light functions, but most of the time no response, checked it, made sure it wasn’t in muggle mode, re set it but still, click click nothing - most of the time

Well was fun while it lasted, what was an intermittent issue is now permanent - the button is completely dead and non responsive

Scallywag · 2021-06-11T18:19:16.000Z

KJD21:

Why was the short tube made so you can’t use the lanyard ring?

Nvmd….wrong thread!!!

My KR4/KR1 tubes work with the lanyard ring, so I think it was fixed at some point.

pint · 2021-06-19T13:51:38.000Z

pint:

pint:

I relay enjoyed using this light, but now for some unknown reason the switch has stopped responding reliably, sometimes it works and the light functions, but most of the time no response, checked it, made sure it wasn’t in muggle mode, re set it but still, click click nothing - most of the time

Well was fun while it lasted, what was an intermittent issue is now permanent - the button is completely dead and non responsive

Emailed Intl- outdoors and had a reply offering to sell a replacement switch as its out of warranty - however the bezel is on tight and wont be easy to remove without causing damage

Unheard · 2021-06-19T14:03:14.000Z

You’ll probably need a new switch boot, too.

pint · 2021-06-28T17:23:01.000Z

!

! looks like its irreparable. mangled the switch boot and a little red switch fell out

[Album] imgur.com

Unheard · 2021-06-28T17:22:29.000Z

pint:

looks like its irreparable. mangled the switch boot and a little red switch fell out

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

You need to get the retainer ring out, then grab the cables with some fine tweezers and resolder the button PCB. Obvioulsy you need a new switch boot, too.

Firelight2 · 2021-06-28T23:42:04.000Z

I have one of those gold D4V2.

You’re in luck: you got the flush retaining ring so the light should be repairable. The flush retaining ring is removable. Unlike the raised retaining ring which I found impossible to budge.

Get a small Victorinox mini pocket knife, open the nail file.
The tip of the file should be a flat screwdriver with rounded edges.
Coming in from the side, insert it under the retaining ring just above where the rubber switchboot sat. Once it is wedged in, use it as a lever to lift up the retaining ring. The retaining ring is press-fit and should lever right up.

Next step is to desolder all the wires to the aux board and the star. Only attempt this if you have soldering skills and a fine tip for your soldering iron available. The wires to the aux LEDs are tiny. Before desoldering, take a picture so you can make sure to get every wire back to the right bondpad when reassembling.

After desoldering, remove the aux board and the star. Then insert a toothpick or other tool into the wire whole and push the driver out of the head. Once it is partially out you should be able to access to tiny wires which go to contacts on the underside of the red switch. Assuming those bondpads didn’t rip off the switch, soldering the switch wires back on. Reverse the process to reassemble.

Notes:

Since the rubber switch boot is destroyed you will need to obtain or make a replacement.
Also, if the switch retaining ring eroded the head coming out, you might find it may not stay in place. If you experience this try adding some super-glue gel between the retaining ring and head.
Due to the numerous small wires involved I wouldn’t recommend attempting this repair unless you’re an experienced modder. If not, you might want to contact Emisar about having them repair it.
It can be difficult threading the 4 aux board wires plus the 2 LED wires through the hole in the head and the star. If you have difficulty, solder some long narrow gauge guide wires onto the ends of the wires and then pull the guide wires through. Then desolder the guide wires.

RamBull · 2021-07-23T22:32:01.000Z

Check out this very interesting mod where you can keep the auxiliary lights on by using the reflashing kit. Posted on Re-edit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/comments/oq5629/am_i_late_to_the_party_or_are_people_not_aware/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

DtsGA · 2021-10-13T02:43:53.000Z

I have had 4 Emisar / Noctigon torches stolen from me.... wish they would start putting serial numbers or BLE locating functionality inside. I am sure of where 2 went but have no way to prove. These cost a good bit of money and anything would help....

Wick

https:.//www.dtssav.com

DtsGA · 2021-10-13T02:53:40.000Z

I had the same thing happen to my D4V2 Ti and I emailed Hank... He sent me a brand new head to screw onto the battery tube, good customer service. Might be a bit of a wait, emailing in different time zones... shipping... but they corrected the issue.

Wick

https://www.dtssav.com

TimMc · 2021-10-14T07:41:23.000Z

Try taking the magnet (if any) out of the tailcap and put a BLE beacon inside.