I searched several of the threads on here about the tools of the trade for modding and/or creating your own flashlights. I got the standard soldering iron, thermal paste, but before I go about reflowing my LED on my board I really need a tool that will fit into the to metal holes so I can unscrew the brass fitting thing (technical term) that hold the board in. The head on the C8+ is so deep and narrow it will make reflowing it quite cumbersome. So if someone could please clue this noobie in on what tool I can use for this I’d really appreciate. Thanks my dudes.
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Snap ring pliers, or a fork.
edit : I have these : https://www.knipex.com/products/gripping-pliers/gripping-pliers-for-precision-mechanics/gripping-pliers-precision-mechanics/3741125
“Flat nose pliers”
Do a search for “circlip pliers”
I have some with replaceable tips I bought over 40 years ago as an automotive tool.
Thanks guys much appreciated!
Good advice here, but in reading your post I want to be sure you’re not confused about the process. You don’t need to remove the driver to swap LEDs on a C8 (but it’s certainly good to get the tools to do so if ever needed!).
The C8 has a “shelf” rather than a “pill.” To swap LEDs simply remove the bezel and reflector (don’t get dirt or fingerprints on the reflector), de-solder the two wires, and remove the MCPCB screw. You can then reflow a LED or swap in a new 20mm MCPCB.
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I just drive a couple of nails through a piece of wood, bend them to the right length between the retainer holes, and the use that to remove the rings.
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I have this, got it for a mod I haven’t even done yet (heh) but it’s proven itself useful for various other stuff too: Amazon.com
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Yes it is good to have a proper tool to remove retaining rings. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Stainless-Professional-Repairing-Telescope/dp/B0BK1HR9WZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=F0PQK6CRMMN6&keywords=camera+lens+removal+tool&qid=1683498881&sprefix=camera+lense+removal+tool%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-3
But you can also use a set of needle nose pliers or tweezers sized properly.
But for your specific question, As @James_C said. You don’t need to remove the retaining ring (technical term 
) Just uncover and unsolder the leads to the MCPCB. Reflow, and install/resolder.
I have a camera lense wrench and a pair of snap ring pliers that I use depending on how much space is available. I ruined a curved pair of hemostats before I bought the proper tools.
I use round nose “jewelery making” pliers because I already had them but I think they’re superior to snap ring pliers anyways because as far as i can tell they’re the exact same thing except they have a wire cutter.
A pair of pointy scissors also works
I use an older pair of micro shears . One that’s taken abuse . They dig in so they don’t slip out of holes when you’re cranking down on them .
One stone two birds
So are extremely long tweezers another tool of the trade
If I heat the solder points and undo the screws does the pcbm just falloutthe front? then I can hold the chip better? I’m a little confused. I compared the C8 and the C8+ just to make sure there wasn’t a difference in the head size and they appear to be the same so I could use a little guidance on how I would go about getting this put on the board. Is there a good resource on youtube or elsewhere? I have already searched and I have found some videos but they either aren’t in view with the camera or it’s showing me things that don’t really apply for what I’m trying to do.
Camera Lens Tool is good for hard to twist brass rings.
I find that cheap tweezers work well too but you might bend them. They’re easier to turn.
UYUE 946-1010 is a nice hot plate.
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The MCPCB with the emitter has to be removed from the light first, or at least that makes the task easier.
Remove the screws first. The MCPCB may have heat transfer compound (paste) under it and that may make the MCPCB stick to the head. That’s the grey stuff you see squished out around the perimeter of the MCPCB. You may need to pry the MCPCB to loosen it.
If the MCPCB is loosened from the head first I find it does not take so much heat/time to de-solder the + and - wires. When the MCPCB is tight against the head much of the heat is dissipated into the head.
Then the MCPCB with the emitter is removed. The emitter is removed and a new emitter is reflowed when out of the head.
Clean up the inside of the head. I use a small cardboard insulator between the MCPCB and head when soldering the + and - wires to the MCPCB. It helps the heat stay in the MCPCB while working. That works for me, YMMV. Then I remove that and insert a dab of heat transfer compound and reinstall the screws.
I have a few different tweezers with different angle tips. Plus a few different sized tips for the soldering iron.
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Sometimes the wires from the driver to the MCPCB are twisted in that hidden space between the driver and MCPCB. Loosening the driver can allow the twist to be unwound and make a little more wire length available to make it easier to lift the MCPCB away from the head a bit more.
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Yeah you gotta get the mcpcb out of the light before you can reflow the new LED. Don posted a great step by step above this.
Are you prepared to do the reflow? That’s the tricky part for beginners. You’ll need to heat up the mcpcb in order to mount the new LED. You’ll know it’s hot enough when that existing solder melts.
A hot plate is ideal. I’m a maniac and use a heat gun (like made for paint stripping). I’ve seen people use a skillet or even a candle/lighter. A soldering iron held underneath won’t likely work.
Sorry but I don’t have any links for you but maybe someone else does.
The easy way out is to simply buy the emitter on a new MCPCB. That is what I first did. Then you can experiment on the ones you have removed.
I used a few different methods before buying an actual hot plate designed for the task. I now use a Miniware MHP30.
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Oh ya well you said you want to take the driver out. You don’t have to take the driver out to swap emitters. Can’t believe nobody caught that lol
Desolder wires, unscrew, then pull out with tweezers. Maybe poke it around a little bit first to loosen it up from the thermal compound. Google precision ESD tweezers you can get a set for <$10. Idk how ESD they are but they’re useful
It works. Not well. You have to tin the iron and actually hold it to the board. Kinda make a mess.
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Yeah a soldering iron can work. I used to put the MCPCB in a mini vise (rubber jaws). Then heat it up from the bottom with my soldering iron. It is slow, but works. Of course you need a soldering iron that gets hot enough and have to hold it on the board long enough. Hot plate or electric skillet so you can better control the temperature are far better options.
This is my favorite video on the subject, but he does not show removing the MCPCB:
Look HERE
Scroll down and find a post by Fixenza. He wrote up a nice step by step LED swap article.
Easiest way to swap LEDs is to buy them mounted on the correct size MCPCB. Then it is just unsoldering and re-soldering the two wires.
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I stand corrected. My old soldering iron couldn’t do that but I bet my new one could. But like you said, probably not the best method.
Anyone on the fence about reflowing should just give it a try. I found it to be easier than I expected and really opens the door to having fun with modding. Pre-mounted MCPCBs are the way to go for beginners but eventually they’ll run into situations where reflows are best (lights with custom MCPCBs, wanting to buy cheaper bare LEDs, etc.).
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