Hi!
I put a single led on a driver of a cheap triple light.
the 3 Led are parallel - so output voltage should be okay.
I thought I get triple amps - but not 
same amps before and after (2,6A) … why?
while I was on a walk with my wife and my baby a word came into my mind : Konstantstromquelle! (constant current source)
do I have any advantage from a driver like that (if I tweak the sense resistors) over a single led driver?
How many batteries does the light take?
One or two batteries? Either way it sounds like it’s a buck driver so there is a resistor in place that is limiting your current to the emitters. Is this a one battery light? If so then you can get away with bypassing the resistor as long as you have the emitter on a sinkpad or noctigon. You could also try heavy wires and a spring mods to increase the current to the emitter.
If it’s a two battery in series then you have to be careful because bypassing the resistor could fry your emitter. If it’s a multiple battery light in parallel then you could also bypass the resistor.
If you can, take a picture of the driver and let us know more about the battery configuration.
it takes 4 18650s parallel…
has a e-switch
what’s that big Cap for?
and what is “induction” ?
also a lot of missing stuff…
This is a simple DD driver with a “modes chip”. The group of R130 resistors is a bank of current limiting resistors. All it does is create a direct circuit from the batteries to the LEDs through the current limiting resistors. Decreasing resistance there or bridging them entirely will increase current to the LED (s).
There are many threads about this type of driver. Drivers like this are commonly used in SRK clones.
I don’t know what “induction” is on this driver. Don’t worry about the missing stuff. The cap is just a regular cap they could have used small surface mounted caps and done the same thing. It’s just holding current and releasing it in spurts. Pretty heavy duty but nothing to mess with.
The resistors that you need to work on are the R13-R10 (R130 resistors). You can jump any of them for a current boost. Solder a small copper wire over any one of them. You can also just put a line of solder over any one of them. Just drag a bit of solder from one side to the other. This will give you a current jump. However, the driver will still have resistance built into that FET (big square thing) I don’t know that FET so it could be a lot of resistance or very little.
Do you have your emitter on a sinkpad or noctigon? If so just go for it and jump one of those resistors. If not be prepared to fry your emitter.
It appears that this PCB is designed for something like 2 or 3 different configurations. I suppose that it could be setup:
- Like you have it now, as a simple DD driver.
- Like a single channel version of the original SRK driver with just the inductor added between L2+ and “induction” and LED+ moved over to L+.
- As a buck driver with a buck controller chip at U2, an inductor populated, and a big Schottkey diode at D4. (EDIT: R5 would also be removed and probably a few other small changes)
thanks for your answers! 
my small experience in that field gave me the same ideas 
(DD and sense resistors)
I am not really into that tiny bugs 
total resistance is 32.5 mOhm…
I have some R100 around - we will see where that journey goes
the light is was the Fixed Star from gearbest…
The big diode missing at D4 is only needed when there's an inductor present.