Can you show the in line connection?
Yes, those 0 ohm resistors just connect +-, so if you had a 3S driver, you would only have to solder to the empty pads. But as you have to connect them in parallel, you have to remove those jumpers.
I'm sorry, but what do you want me to show you?
6th picture shows a wired star.
I would like to make an in series connection image, to add in the first post.
Can you describe the wire placement for that?
Oh, Ok. :)
In series, you connect the + and - tabs next to each other. That's what those jumpers are doing. Then you connect the wires from the driver with the empty solder pads. But those drivers are rare in "low" current applications such as 3 XPGs.
It this in series connection?
No. Click this link to see what a triple wired in series looks like. (Link takes you to mtbr forums)
After your help, I updated the first post, hope this will help other people except me.
Your timing is uncanny …Thanks a lot for posting this! I just received parts for LED supply and shiningBeam
Both great to deal with.
I like to use #2, after removal of the ZeroRes jumpers.
Bit of an old thread, but I’m about to wire up a parallel star and I’m nervous because I’m not exactly a soldering hero…
I have silicone jacketed 20awg wire that I’ll use to connect to power, but can I cheat a little and use smaller wire for the in-between connections? (I’ve got cheap-jacket 24awg and silicone jacket 28awg available right now.)
 I should have said 3A drive current on high. [/edit]
What would happen if the LED was wired up in series with the same 7135 2.8 amp driver?
3.7/3 volts and 2.8A to each led?
Non working situation I think.
I don't think it would turn on. Not enough voltage.
So you would need 10 volts and it would put out 2.8 amps per LED if you wanted to run it in series?
At 10 volts the driver would die. ;) But yes, if you found a driver for 3 LEDs in series (like the DRY driver) then yes it would work.
If you look at chassis wiring in this graph, you can see that awg24 (or awg20)is okay for the main current feed and awg 28 for the parallel feeds but I would use silicon or Teflon cased wire for both due to the heat present from the LEDs. Cheap jackets shrink back and could expose the wires to the mcpcb or each other. The silicon jacketed wire you have should be okay.
Thanks! That’s exactly the info I was searching for and failing to find.
This thread looks short enough and helpful enough to revive, I hope.
So, there’s this triple Nichia:
(click to embiggen)
It’s identified on the board as “Parallel”
It has one big LED- and one big LED+ solder pad
Is it safe to assume the connections to the emitters are made on the board under the black paint layer?
I don’t see a way to do the fancy wiring discussed above earlier in this topic.
I've used a number of these in the recent past. All the connections you need are already there under the black layer. Just connect your driver wires to the supplied pads and enjoy the light. Just be careful what you order as Kaidomain also sells a serial version.