I was looking at this light for a while and everyone seemed to glaze it over as being inferior to the j12.
I went with the 16 based on the superior millwork as well as it is stated to pull 8 amps vs the 7.5 on the 12, when I got mine it seems to meter at 9 amps on fresh batteries and drawing closer to 10 at 3.9 volts or so.
Once I get a few pictures of it I will make a proper review, does anyone else out there have this light to verify my draw findings?
Welcome to the cool kids' club, PineyJustice!
Bit of a zombie revival here, but last night I tore mine down and put it back together, popped in a pair of ncr18650a s and pushed the power button.
The brightness just about doubled, I would have gotten a tail cap reading, but attempting to do so fried both of my DMMs :<
Took it outside and was played with it for a few minutes, the whole body was uncomfortably warm within 5 minutes on high and my tailcap spring showed signs of heat wear.
The brightness however was astounding, I’d wholly believe it was at least 4k lumens OTF based on it demolishing my TN31 + 4 amp p60 U2 + HD2010 (together) in ceiling bounce.
Anyone else experience a massive output bump with the J12 model just from cleaning contact points?
what contacts did you clean …and what did you use? makes me want to try that with all my lights haha
4k OTF lumens… just from cleaning contacts.
well i can say that i’ve definitely never had a similar experience, although im hoping…
maybe not 4k, but it was drawing 8 amps before, before it heated up in around 10 minutes, now it heats up in < 1 minute to far hotter.
I just cleaned some old dirty grease with 99% isopropyl alcohol as well as the caps on the springs and the brass fittings.
EDIT, No amperage reading as trying to do so killed both of my lower end multimeters :<
Nice… sounds like you’re doing nearly 40 watts. That WILL get things cooking with an SST90. my fluke has a 10A ceiling, a light like this would be pushing it I think.
Do you have any pics of the light? I have always had a thing for the J16… its such a nice looking torch. IMHO.
I have found panasonic and Sanyo 18650 cells can get hot when current exceeds ~6A. So that could also be heating things up a bit.
thanks!!
Been meaning to get some beamshots of it, it really is a MASSIVE wall of flood, it tends to impress people a lot more than my TN 31.
Both of the DMMs it toasted were rated for 10A (one was a craftsman and the other was a harbor frieght fluke clone)
Please do take some beamshots!
And include other lights too that we can compare to
i had a similiar experience but it was with my sipik sk68 clone. the lens fell off it so i decided i would just blow on the xml emitter and around it just incase there was dust or whatever.
after putting the led back on, i swear the light got brighter! in zoom mode before, the hotspot was smaller, not the square hotspot is much larger. not only that, but its clearer. you know those three cut out spots thats on the square hotspot….before i could barely make those out. now its so sharp, it looks like a tv or something haha.
Ok, used my brothers rather expensive camera, but had no idea how to adjust the shutter speed.
It was still fixed and should still give a relative, albeit blurry and dim comparison. (roughly 100m, everything was completely light even with the p60)
First off, U2 502b with thermal and electrical path mods on an ncr18650a
Second, ultrafire HD 2010 (most of you should be familiar with this, quite a good pocketable thrower for an equally small price)
Third the TN 31, hotspot is incredible on this one, 100m for this guy is like grocery shopping in a race car
And last is the TR-J16, the output is slightly lower than it was the other day due to the springs being partially melted, but in the picture the hotspot looks nearly as intense as the HD 2010.
Sadly I didn’t notice this and think to try them at the same time.
I’ll replace these with ones that suck much less when I get a chance to borrow my friends DSLR, Never realized beamshots were this hard to get right before.
I think the drivers got partially toasted. Something is going to go one of these days. And when that happens, you would not want unprotected cells in there.
I have encountered 2 cases in which the drivers failed and it became a dead short. If your springs don’t melt then within 1-2 minutes you are in for a very bad day, esp if your batteries are > 80% full, definitely enough juice in there to continue the fireworks show.
The only unprotected batteries I use are IMR 18350s in my VV mod E-Cig, the rest are NCR18650As and trustfire flame 3000 batteries.
Even so do be careful with them….I know Callie Kustoms tested them 18650A in a dead short condition with 12AWG, but there are no promises. A custom light with IMR did go bang in the room and shattered several thousand dollars worth of glass. Do not leave them tailstanding. If it does not turn on, always assume something is shorting inside.
I never thought such an accident would happen on me till 2 months ago, and it took 11k to fix my hand. And it was just a plastic container exploding.
Even though I believe that truly catastrophic failures of lithium batteries are incredibly rare, the potential for serious mayhem is always present. The slight extra cost of a quality protected cell, such as the Xtar 3100 mAh 18650's that I use, is cheap insurance to my mind.
I trust my orbtronic cells, and my unprotected 18350s are AWs, those are crazy little batteries, have you ever seen the AW dead short test videos?
Thanks to your comments, PineyJustice, I just bought this light. I got it from member WWEFANS, who runs an Aliexpress store, and is an active contributor to these forums.
The first thing I’ll do is give the light a good clean and hope to get 4000 lumens ! I’ve only got the Trustfire 2400 flames 18650. Thinking of getting some Efest Sanyos or maybe Panasonic’s CGR18650s. Any comments on what batteries would drive this light the hardest ?
I’ll report back once I get the light !
Hey Folks,
i just received my TR-J16. Real impressive light in my opinion. I have a question to the other owners here. It gets remarkably hot when running it on high continuosly. Did anyone here make some kind of runtime test? I mean is it capable to stand the heat it produces on high for a time like 30 minutes or even more
I stopped running it after 8 minutes because i was afraid the LED´s could get too hot.
Hope somebody can help me…
Thanks and regards,
Thomas
No idea if this is interesting for anybody here…
I got mail from the Trustfire support. They say the light is designed to run on high continuously and it can handle the heat the LED´s produce.
I think it´s a great flashlight for the money.
Regards,
Thomas
I have run mine continuously only for up to 10-15 minutes on high. It gets warm, but not too hot that I think it is going to disintegrate.
I have compared it to my Trustfire X8 and C8 T6. The J16 beats these two combined in a ceiling bounce, so it looks like it is over 2000 lumens. I don’t have a light meter however!
However, the X8 beats it on throw, the hotspot is marginally brighter.