Good to know, hopefully it will have performance close to a modified FW3A in that case.
What sort of driver is it, for low modes does it use a 7135 chip like the TS10 and TS25, or is it something else?
The new connections for the inner tube look a lot better than the old style, hopefully the risk of wearing out or having an unreliable connection is much lower.
Would you concider a shorter 18650 tube for batteriers without charging? I know that it works with normal batteries too, but the TS10 is known for being tiny. A battery tube that is a little shorter would be better as it allows the flashlight to be as small as possible.
Stop asking for other metals and different tube sizes, before you even have the original light, Johnny mac was spot on. Stop being flashlight karens. Love y’all enjoy your week.
I have to agree. Everyone has their personal likes and dislikes, but maybe we should get the original light fully sorted before asking for changes. For instance, I think getting the buck driver properly implemented first is a bigger deal than any other changes.
As to the tube length, I can’t see 1 to 5 MM change in length making a huge or even noticeable difference in feel or ease of carry. But, yeah, that is just me.
Thanks Terry and Wurkkos for testing things thoeiughly before sending them out! Look forward to a buck or boost driver version. I never got a FW3A or the one with the Lume1 driver, so if you can make one with Sft25R leds as an option and a regulated driver that would be awesome. Don’t need onboard usb c charging!
Massive for Nichia 519a, but I hope 4500k will be offered
Also, like others have said I really prefer boost or buck driver, for runtime. If the light cannot sustain 250-500 for more than 1 hours , I’m not interested
I just tried it with the stock cell that I had just fully charged. I only ran it for 90 seconds on turbo (150/150). It stepped down, but did not turn off. Maybe a difference in cell health?
Congrats, mine isn’t expected to arrive until the 5th.
Have you tried to remove the bezel? I assume it’s glued like the TS10, but both mine came apart pretty easy. If you’re able to remove the bezel and have a spare Carclo 105XX optic, could you check if they fit?
OOPS, that was the head. Bezel must be glued. It is not going to let me unscrew it easily. At this point I am not going to worry about breaking it loose.
I don’t have the optic that you mention.
As an aside, the tail cap on this one unscrewed easily.
That’s quite unfortunate, I was planning on taking mine apart to mess with the LEDs (maybe a dedome or swap). Hopefully the adhesive releases with heat.
Is the optic exposed or is there glass to protect it?