TS10 Titanium thermal testing

Great to hear it! Hoping I will be lucky with mine too.

dirt happens… its easy to clean

what does not clean are the scratches from the clip:

pic from this thread… the guy was so upset he resold the light immediately… different people get triggered by different details…

at some point there is going to be signs of use on a light… I try to keep them nice, I carry in a dedicated pocket… but I try to enjoy actually using my Lights, not just store them in a box… different strokes…

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I’m right there with you on this, brother. No shelf queens for me either, a light either gets used or is sold/donated.

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Was that with the standard (silver) clip? I thought it didn’t touch the head?!

That’s interesting! I always wanted to remove my TS10 bezel and have a look inside – so the TiTS10 isn’t glued? This is actually a plus for me (as long as I screws back in place afterwards and the head keeps being watertight after that. Is there an “internal o-ring” or something between bezel and the rest of the head?


I thought it didn’t touch the head?!

in stock form it rides on the head

I sometimes adjust the clip by pushing a plastic wedge under it, in order to create a hairswidth gap, so the clip wont ride on the head… but in this case, I did not do that.

I just unscrewed the head to remove the disc that blocks battery contact… I did not make the effort to lift the end of the clip to ensure it would not ride on the head when unscrewing

It is also possible the light came pre scratched… as the clip arrived installed, it would have caused the damage shown during opening and closing the light at factory

Im not a fan of the factory clip. I changed it to a Lumintop EDC05 clip, that does not ride on the head…

in this case a bit like closing the barn door after the horse got out… a day late and a dollar short… dont cry over spilled milk… etc :wink:

Is there an “internal o-ring” or something between bezel and the rest of the head?

yes, the bezel has an O ring that the Tir rests on

and there is also an O ring at the head threads, that the bezel screws over, same as on the body… it will all make sense when you see it

the one gotcha to watch out for, is make sure the Tir legs are seated in their receiving holes on the mcpcb, before tightening the Bezel back down… or bad things can happen… broken legs or worse, the Tir spins while turning the bezel and the legs grind over the LEDs…

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It looks almost like a factory decorative embellishment… :wink: :smiling_imp:

Edit… mine has a single line… not two. But maybe because I swapped my favorite ZL H series clip immediately.
But looking closely… either mine came from the factory with a bunch of scratches… or the few hours I have had it in my pocket with a knife have done it. I would have never notice had I not been looking for the “clip line”…

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lol, its a feature not a bug :wink:

another issue that bothers some people, is the tailbutton rocks without activating the switch. I dont mind, Im used to pressing on the middle of the button.

I actually like that the button requires direct pressure… I consider it less likely that the button will be triggered by accident

I also like that the button requires twice the pressure of a FWAA, so again less prone to accidental discharge

I carry unlocked and have never burned a hole in my pocket (part of the reason I disable turbo is to prevent that stupidity)

It occurs to me… if the scratches I see were not on the light from the factory (I assume they weren’t) the TI must be easier to scratch/mar than Type 3 anodizing. The black TS10 that I have carried for months (same conditions with some kind of knife in the same pocket) has no scratches. It has some wear showing, bright rings in the high areas on the body just inboard of the bezel and the tail cap. But no scratches …

I believe this is true…

I could tell the clip was riding on the head, and did not expect the marks since my Anodised TS10 tolerate that behavior

Titanium does scratch easily, its even more obvious on non raw Ti, such as this sandblast, or god forbid, heat colored anodising

one reason I favor Raw over blasted, is the ability to resurface to remove scratches… I dont own stonewashing gear… so for me, stonewash will show wear more than Raw

whether that wear matters, or is even appreciated, is all about personal preferences

Yeah… now that I saw these scratches I thought to polish them out. But I am sure I would have to polish the entire light or end up with splotches of no blasted finish. I guess I will just live with it… I wish I had never looked… :upside_down_face:

I tried polishing the whole light with a jewelers cloth… It now feels smoother in hand and has a nice sheen, but if I look close enough, I can still see the clip lines…

I would use 600 grit emery paper as the next level intervention, if I have another bout of OCD… lol

Do the head and bezel lego with the other versions? If so I wonder how the thermals would look if you were to take the guts out of the Ti version and swap heads with a different metal. I’m thinking I might try it with brass when mine arrives. Might look cool at least.

Yeah… maybe 600 then 1200 grit. The scratches I see are too deep for regular metal polish (or a jewelers cloth). But getting the scratch pattern right over the whole light will be tough. Maybe just polish the whole thing to a mirror finish… Nah, not worth it… :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


brass and stainless, are half as good as Aluminium, at conducting heat

aluminium is half as good as copper, at conducting heat

Ti is 1/4 as conductive as Brass and Stainless…

I consider Ti, Brass, and Stainless to be Insulators … Copper and Aluminium are the more conductive options.

What is interesting is that copper absorbs/conducts heat better than aluminum, but Al radiates heat better. Because Copper tends to retain heat better too. That is why, before the wide use of heat pipes, CPU coolers had a copper core and AL fins for the radiator (well probably weight and cost came into it too). Not at all sure how this impacts out small flashlights . But it is interesting to think about.

Absolutely, but after cost, weight, corrosion, and SMELL are taken into consideration… I think Anodized AL wins !

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I just ordered a Silver anodised TS10 w 6000K and Orange Aux, because the one I had, I just gifted to a friend

The TiTS10 is in my EDC rotation today, its a very nice light imo, once I adjusted the ceiling… but I still like the lighter weight of the aluminium model… I think I might have shoppers fever…

Reminds me of a math story problem… so Suzy has 7 apples? Thanks for the info!

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Cost and weight are the two things those concerned about thermals balance when deciding which of those two materials to use. Weight doesn’t matter so much for CPU heatsinks, and some motherboards use the mass of copper they use as a marketing point, but cost is definitely a consideration there.

As for smell, between being an electrician for years (copper wiring) and being old enough to have dealt with a lot of pennies, it barely registers for me. However, I can see how those who have not been exposed to it constantly for decades might notice it more.

It smoke without optic if I do turbo twice. But I don’t want to burn the LEDs so I don’t go for turbo😅