Ultrafire C8 Warm white xml @ MF I don't know if ill ever get a warm led.
Gotta love the typical useless specs:
- LED: Cree XM-L T6
- Color BIN: Warm White
While stationary and viewing objects up close, warm can sometimes add a more natural color rendition and help cause less eye fatigue. IMO, its horrible for searchlights and spot beams, viewing at distance, adding contrast to moving objects or while moving at anything above a slow walk. Everything looks washed out with less detail.
Although not the best comparison, they remind me of my searchlight conversion as it pertains to color rendition.
Mouse off: = warm
Mouse on: = white
The most dangerous bike light I ever used was equipped with warm XML. It wouldnt illuminate enough detail on the trails to notice ruts, potholes, etc while moving along at high speeds. On the other hand, it was fantastic while standing still and observing wildlife & nature at close range.
I am surprised this topic is getting so little love.
If this came in a 3-mode, I would buy two of them today. I may still get one next time I put in an order. I have two of the UF warm P60 drop-ins and a Dry WW, and I am becoming a big fan of warm.
Is there any user of Ultrafire C8 flashlight with warm white XML?
This topic was started two years ago but there are is only one comparison photo of the T4 7C bin((
I converted a Ultrafire C12 to a T6 WW. The 1st post above hit the nail on the head. Just seems to wash everything out. I have since changed it to NW and it is 2000% better. I do like WW in the house though. I moved the WW LED to one of the LED’s in a TR-3T6 and I use it with that LED lowest (hits the ground directly in front of me). It softens the near field glare and seems to help with colors and contrast. Also brought the CW tint more toward neutral in the central part of the beam.
Glad I stumbled on this thread. Lately I have had the urge to add more warm lights to my collection.
Love my Peak Eiger CRI, which is very warm. (Also love my hi CRI nichia219 L3 illumination L10 & Xeno F7, but they are neutral, not warm.) The warm Eiger is really nice around the house. Almost like incan, but better!
I know it may seem kind of cliche that warm light has a more soothing effect than cool light like flurescents & cool LEDs, but I really think there is some truth to it. At least for me. I find really blue LEDs to be very harsh and offputting. Sometimes they give an almost eerry, repressive feeling. Strangely, I do not seem to be as bothered by slightly greenish tints as some other flashies say they are. But warm yellowy light reminds me of candlelight and campfires. It is more relaxing, in an odd, subconcious kind of way. Some say our eyes and brains have evolved this way because of our use of fire throughout history. I am not certain how that has been scientifically substantiated, but it does seem reasonable to me.
I do totally get what you meant though Flashpilot. You are right. Yellower light can wash things out at distances or at motion. Whiter light is better for that kind of use. Not sure if that is due to some evolutionary link to our diurnal (opposite of nocturnal) lifestyle as hunter gatherers in sunshine in the past, but it wouldn’t surprise me at all. Most modern HID headlights on cars are fairly cool. Probably for a reason, no? 
So…. WTF am I rambling about?…. good question! 
I want a flashlight for the sole purpose of serving as a candle. I do this all the time with my lights when I am relaxing on the couch late at night. But I want something WARM for this purpose. Not neutral hi CRI, warm toasty fire-like light.
Obviously, a candlelight must tailstand - very solidly. I think a short stubby CR123A powered light might be most stabble as they tend to have lowest CG. 18650 might be OK too. Probably don’t want AAA or AA b/c they tend to have smaller footprint and be more top-heavy (desirable attributes for women, but not candlelights! ). Exception: my 3xAA Rook has great dimensions and stands excellent, but it’s output is very cool and purple.
Thinking lo/med/hi modes, in that order, are required. Low low would be great, but that might be asking too much. Definitely DON’T need a superphotonblaster in this case. 300-500 max lumens would probably be more than sufficient. Really don’t want strobes unless well hidden in UI.
Emitters, I am thinking MC-E or 7C XM-L? I am open to other suggestions… This is just what I have settled on after shopping around. There are some P60 MC-E WF-501Bs around, but most are single mode or 5-mode w/ strobe. Fasttech has their Convoy S2 and S3 available with T4 7C XM-Ls. I don’t have experience with this emitter. Any of you gents?
Care to share your thoughts and opinions? (Beside that cool rules and warm sucks lol)
I'm looking into the same type of thing; I have this emitter on its way from Fast-Tech:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1136801
...and am planning on adding it to a P60 drop-in (Maybe with the new 105c from IO with the 20mA low), and a host like this one...
...because it tail-stands very well and is cheap. Add a diffuser...
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/portable-beam-soft-diffuser-for-flashlights-318mm-inner-diameter-p-4439 (maybe, I don't know if this one would fit)
...and you have a nice warm/floody/natural camping/night-light with a long runtime.
Warning, my personal opinions only:
I would generally take WW over CW any day!
BUT, it depends on the use.
Throwers. I can use cool white. Im hoping 5700k XM-L2 U2 will be more common though. Goal is usually to make things out in a distance light up. So 5000k or cooler seem to have an advantage in how the light is perceived and also in BIN, making it stronger and throw longer.
Extreme brightness (say multi-emitter XM-L). I can use 5000k. But I would prefer slightly warmer (but then perceived brightness and BIN would go down).
Typical flashlights. Used for close up to mid-range I prefer 3000-4000k. I seem to prefer 4000k outdoors over 3000k. But I would take 3000k before 5000k.
Indoor, 3000k.
If if turn on a 3000k indoors and a 5000k everybody is usually impressed by the 3000k. Nobody seem to like 6500k indoors when they get a direct comparison.
I think its mostly a question about lumens. Cool white lights are higher bin. More lumen. More lumen for the buck. Lumens sell! And they also appear bright, so most are happy.
Another problem is most manufacturers use cool white due to the fact that lumens sell, but also due to cost. In “XM-L land” T6 cool white is so mass produced and cheap. Its not the best of brightness, nor is it good on tint… But its cheaper to buy, and most customers would not know better, or pay more for better.
Some try 3000k, say its a bit too warm/yellow/orange, and then go back to 5000k… Fair enough.
But I think many people forget that there are stuff in between 5000k (the cool side of NW white) and 3000k (the warmer side of warm white).
I believe many people does not know better. Why should they explore emitters most manufactures dont use?
For some, even finding neutral is enlightenment. And then they stop going towards even warmer lights and higher CRI.
I believe there would be many more people who would rave about emitters in the 3500-4500k range if they just tried them. Many would probably like 3000k too.
Personally, im a huge fan of 3000-4000k. But as said, it all depends on the use.
The LED database/spreadsheet is really useful for finding the right tint (see my signature). I usually sort the spreadsheet after tint. 
Sounds like you guys know where I am coming from and what I am getting at. Glad to see I am not alone. 
R86: Agree with your thoughts that if more tried them, warm would have more fans. Cost/price definitely is a major driving factor. This is why you rarely see budget warms & hi CRIs. Love my Peak and HDS and the like, but can’t afford them.
Keltex: I like your plan with the P60 host. I might do something similar, but I am new to modding. Have you come across anything OTS [off the shelf] that comes close to fitting these needs?
I have looked at color charts til my head spins. Found some shots online here and there… but do you have any personal experience of T4 7C versus MC-E? I have several XM-Ls neutral T6 3Cs, but no MCEs. Curious what they are all about.
Not really, Manafont used to have a warm-white XM-L drop-in but it's not available any longer. Not sure about any of the other sellers...
FastTech has one listed but marked as "Sold out":