I have a UniqueFire UF-T20
Got it from Lightmalls, just under $20, as they usually are.
XM-L rather cool white, I have a tailcap current of some 1.5 A, battery not freshly charged.
3 modes: high, low (visible PWM), panic.
Very short next mode memory, so it always starts at high.
Has a glass lens, which seems to be okay, but not a high grade lens.
I think the XM-L is too big for this setup.
I will put in a smaller LED, but that’s not what this modification is about.
Right picture: That’s basically the essence of this modification…
I took away the O-ring and the ridge that held it in place.
And so …
… increased the ‘head travel’ by 2.5mm forward.
But without the O-ring, it’s of course rattling and loose…
Some smooth guiding is a must.
The rim that’s left is just wide enough to make a deep groove in it.
All you need is a good lathe.
and several sharp pointy things, like mini screwdrivers, a very flat saw blade, mini files, snap-off blades, etc…
Deep groove, holds an O-ring really well.
Somewhere in there between those rings in shades of grey, you might see the grey O-ring, maybe…
I tried various O-rings, and this one was ‘just right’.
But it had a nick and it snapped, so now there’s a black one that’s ‘just a wee thick’ :~
Anyway, the head can move 10.5mm now, and you can see the threads appear…
But forward is the only way you can go.
The design prohibits to let the head zoom out / wider any closer.
First of all it’s the aspheric lens that stops it, because it touches the edge / rim where i just put in the grey O-ring when zoomed out.
Secondly, the threads on which the head moves stop there…
When you take out the lens in zoomed out position the head is only just (not) held there by its threads.
So, the head now goes 2 mm further from the LED.
This means the LED has to move forward 2 mm also to focus it in zoomed in position…
I cut too much off… quite a gap…
(NOTE: ring in the picture is 2.5mm and had to be made flatter eventually.)
The picture is not fantastic…
but you can see it’s not really possible to go much further with this.
I think i have about 2 mm between LED and lens, zoomed out.
And THAT is what this is about!
To make a wide beam, as wide as possible, the lens should be able to touch the LED.
That isn’t possible this way, but i got 2 mm closer !
Normally the head can move 9.5mm from zoom in to zoom out.
I could only add 2 mm to that, so now it can move 10.5mm.
2 mm is not much, but it’s an increase of some 22% which is rather significant (i hope…)
The new O-ring has moved forward compared to the stock situation.
So, when the lens touches the base (fully zoomed out, wide beam) the cylinder (the head) just comes off the
This is solved by using a thinner O-ring under the lens
(replacing the big O-ring as seen in the first picture)
Now the head can move just a little less to widest beam, but it’s mechanically better that way.
...and this is why this topic is not so clear about the 2mm or 2.5mm... It's a little difficult to explain sometimes, especially with zoomies, where head moved out is actually zoomed in
The restricting factor is of course the ‘cylinder’ length, the inside of the moving head, which slides over the modified rim with the grey O-ring.
That rim is made to be as narrow as possible so we can have the maximum moving distance AND an O-ring as well.
There is only just 2mm to gain here… :~
Yeah it makes a difference, the flood is wider zoomed out then before.
But there’s still about 2mm between LED dome and lens.
And it’s a very bulgy aspheric lens, so every mm of distance counts…
Some beam shots will follow.
Then we can see what difference it actually makes.
Uhm… lazy Jerommel should take pictures!