Hi there!
i found that one:
non - aff link to banggood
specs:
if i feed that with a old computer PCU - will it work for testing different LED setups?
Input volts a little low from a computer powersupply
Input voltage: 13V-62V
i realised that also…
but i was hoping that playing aroung with 3-6V Leds could work beause the “drop” is high enough…
also i remember one of my PSUs has trimpots to “tune” the output a bit - maybe there is room also 
It’s not for the faint of heart and I wouldn’t recommend it if not comfortable playing around with mains wiring but it’s relatively easy to hook certain PSUs up in series to make a 24v supply.
I built myself a 2600watt 24v out of 2 HP proliant 1300w server PSUs a while back to charge RC lipos, process was same as shown here.
24v PSU conversion
That would be ideal to power something like this by the looks of it.
Verdoppel dein Budget und kauf dir ein einfaches Labornetzteil.
Das China Zeug ist fast immer Buck - und damit kann man oft nichts anfangen.
Ausser, du benutzt das verlinkte Teil zusammen mit einem starken Boost-Converter, der dir die Spannung auf 60V hochrampt.
Dazu ein gebrauchtes Server-Netzteil von ebay (hab eines mit 44A / 12V für 20€ von Dell gekauft) and you’re good to go - um nicht den ganzen Post auf Deutsch zu schreiben
Worse comes to worse…get a regulated powersupply then tie into that, won’t be 1500 watts but will be good enough
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1525/10003749/1661802
I wonder if you could just get an old busted microwave, strip the transformer out of it, then see if the windings will allow stepdown from mains to say 30~ vac, then use one of those large rectifiers and a few heavy caps and filter the ripple down, then use that one to adjust from there
I used a AC transformer for an air conditioner control module and did that with one of those very small trimpot regulator units (but I limit it to 1.5A max output at any time) the transformer is rated for like 80~mKva which ain’t alot)
Microwaves are one of the most dangerous appliances to tinker with inside, they have high voltage high current power supplies that will kill you.
Cheap car battery chargers put out about 14v, old dumb ones maybe better than newer for this use.
This device combined with a good sized say 6x 18650 battery pack might make a good universal supply for cordless tools with obsolete or non working battery packs.
Grab a used laptop charger brick and cables. They are normally 18vdc and up and often >90W. Cheap easy and safe.
@L4M4:
“Das China Zeug ist fast immer Buck – und damit kann man oft nichts anfangen.
Ausser, du benutzt das verlinkte Teil zusammen mit einem starken Boost-Converter, der dir die Spannung auf 60V hochrampt.”
Could you explain a little more what that means? I can read it but technically it makes no sense for me so far - I had planned a similar project but for 3Amps only, mainly to compare different emitters (Vf’s ect.). I bought a much cheaper unit though:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/181467975242?\_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
If I hook it to a 5V or 12V power supply it should be adjustable to 3A constant current at LED voltage. What’s wrong with a buck converter? Can it harm a LED or what spricht dagegen??
What is the actual voltage and current range that you are interested in working with?
For a lot less money there is this, which can push 6A and you can power it off a 12V supply, though a 19V laptop brick might be a better bet.
primarily 3-12 V and up to 10A ( i think)
but my motto is: having 100 % too much is better than 10 % too less
Here’s a nice one from Banggood that can boost voltage so using a PC power supply should work.
Input voltage: DC 6V~40V
Input current: 15A (max)
Output voltage: DC 8V~80V
Output current: 0 ~ 9.99A
Voltage, current resolution: 0.01V, 0.01A
Output Power: 400W (max)
Effective power P = Input voltage * 10A
Conversion efficiency: Up to 95% (Input voltage, current and output voltage, current influence the conversion efficiency)
Display: 4 digits high brightness LED
Short circuit protection: 15A Fuse
Dimensions: 86 x 75 x 63 mm (LWH)
Weight: 295g
EDIT: Warning: this will only boost voltage so it will not work for LEDs.
M4DM4X, I like that motto for almost everything.
@ dthoang:
output starts from 8V - so no single emitter tests… 
+1 on the laptop powersupply…
I have mentioned I use the above on an ATX powersupply, but I also do have a 19vdc at 7.2A laptop powersupply…I have used that numerous times to charge a 12vdc lead acid battery at 14.7vdc (2.45vdc x 6 cells [2.25vdc for float]) I use these because they have both volt and current display on the same buck board
and alice1101983 has been a very good vendor to me
I have several setups that I use (forgot to mention that)
EDIT apologies to everyone for suggesting an unsafe mod/hack (I keep forgetting not everyone is electronics savvy as others)…yes microwaves have HUGE high voltage capacitors that can kill you if not treated correctly…you CAN learn to be safe with them but if you are careless it can be very hazardous to your health.
If 5A is enough this is really nice powersupply http://www.banggood.com/CPS-3205-0-32V-0-5A-Portable-Adjustable-DC-Power-Supply-110V220V-p-934530.html
Got mine a week ago and for the price it’s very impressive.
oh wow…nice little setup!
If I got one of those I would hack it and put some extra output lugs on the front, right below the displays (if there was enough room) 
some cheap and simple (can be say: puritan ) variations, all with cheap converter from ebay
1.2V-30V; 0-5A; max 45W
the smaller 0.8-19V 0-5A, max 60W
the bigger 1.2V-14V 0-10A, max 100-150W
What resistance pot’s did you use?
Very cool hack man!!!
I used the exact same laptop PS you did on the smaller one too
Very nice one. I see the whole casing has fins but I'm still surprised that it gets away without fan while delivering max 160W.