That was the cheapest solution, but works perfectly. For voltage fine tune I just simple connected series the 10k and the 1k potentiometer. 10k for coarse, 1k for fine voltage settings.
Originally there were 10k trimmer pots on the converters.
Yes the whole case is aluminum and seems to spread the heat pretty good, I have only tested mine a short while on 5A but it looked nice and stable.
I hate loud fans so getting a fan less one was a huge selling point for me
Here is a super detailed review on what looks to be almost the identical unit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t49P2nh9_t0
These are awesome, but I’m not sure I am quite ready to build one with out a really good diagram. So who has a set of wire diagram, or better yet who wants to build one for me
Seriously though I do already have a laptop and desktop power supply just laying around, but I’m not 100% how to wire everything in.
Nothing sprichts dagegen
It is halt nur so, that the Spannung is limited to the Eingangsspannung, und solange you don’t have a high-voltage Power supply in front of the Buck-Converter, wirst du eben limited by the Voltage of the power supply.
Manchmal you need more than 12 or 24V - for COBs oder SMD-modules zum Beispiel.
If you really just need 12V or so - a simple buck converter ist nicht schlecht. My Bench Power Supply is standard 3A/30V - Aber manchmal benötige ich eben mehr, wozu ich mir a 400W Digital Boost Converter gebuyed habe.
In front of that, I habe mir ein starkes Dell Server-Power-Supply with 12V/44A used for 20€ gekauft.
That’s a great combination.
I habe sometimes LEDs on my bench, die mehr als 10W haben. A 120W Grow LED or 2 100W Neutral white LEDs momentan. I couldn’t run die mit 12V.
So, I would buy 3 parts:
- Good Buck Converter
- Good Boost Converter (to boost the voltage to the max of the buck converter)
Good Power Supply for the Boost Converter
Then you are able to have a lot of power with a higher holtage accessibility
Edit for the Single-Language-Yankees:
Nothing’s wrogng with that
But, the voltage is limited to the input voltage, and as long as you don’t have a high-voltage power supply in front of the Buck-Converter, you will be limited by the voltage of the power supply.
Sometimes you need more than 12 or 24V - for COBs or SMD-modules for example.
If you really just need 12V or so - a simple buck converter is not bad. My Bench Power Supply is standard 3A/30V - But sometimes I just need more, that’s why I bought a 400W Digital Boost Converter
In front of that, I have bought a Dell Server-Power-Supply with 12V/44A used for 20€.
That’s a great combination.
Sometimes I have LEDs on my bench, that have more than 10W. A 120W Grow LED or 2 100W Neutral white LEDs at the moment. I couldn’t run those with 12V.
So, I would buy 3 parts:
- Good Buck Converter
- Good Boost Converter (to boost the voltage to the max of the buck converter)
Good Power Supply for the Boost Converter
Then you are able to have a lot of power with a higher holtage accessibility.
Nur auf Deutsch schreibe ich das jetzt aber nicht mehr
Thank you for your answer, although I have to agree with M4D M4X it’s terrible to read… So the baseline is, if you are planning to experiment with flashlight emitters than buck will be ok, as long as you can provide an input voltage high enough. I use my 3A/5A module with success together with the 12V line of a special ATX supply from Pollin I had laying around. (http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/Mjg4OTQ2OTk-/Computer_und_Zubehoer/Hardware/Netzteile/Computer_Schaltnetzteil_TPSF_200_4_A.html) It can deliver 8A @12V, the only disadvantage using PC Power supplies is you have to provide a base load in most cases (I hoooked up an old harddrive).
