Utorch W1 Rechargeable Floodlight for $9.99

ValuseekeR · 2018-12-30T19:12:04.000Z

I planned to use Sanyo GA’s in mine, hope they fit well.

lotrbfme · 2018-12-31T01:01:34.000Z

They used to sell at costco but branded as CAT. I bought them at clearance for like $10. Now they have this smaller version : https://www.costco.com/CAT-2-pack-LED-Worklight-with-Magnetic-Base.product.100385557.html

Lightbringer · 2018-12-31T02:34:26.000Z

10bux a pop, wotdahell, why not?

Besides, it looks like bewbs.

woodyt · 2018-12-31T02:57:32.000Z

I’m going to try and couple, can’t hurt for the price.

funkychateau · 2018-12-31T03:59:50.000Z

The description says the USB charging output is 4.5 volts. Can anyone who currently owns this product verify the actual output voltage?

tu_army · 2018-12-31T10:13:24.000Z

funkychateau:

The description says the USB charging output is 4.5 volts. Can anyone who currently owns this product verify the actual output voltage?

hi, here is actual output voltage and a few photos more from inside.

funkychateau · 2019-01-02T05:50:35.000Z

Thanks!

Lexel · 2019-01-02T05:57:56.000Z

The inside looks not good
Thermal path or so non existent

funkychateau · 2019-01-02T06:12:11.000Z

Low-power COB lights seem to get away with relatively little heat sinking. Boriut has a similar light, and the little aluminum backer to the COB seems to be all it needs.

Lexel · 2019-01-02T07:44:37.000Z

funkychateau:

Low-power COB lights seem to get away with relatively little heat sinking. Boriut has a similar light, and the little aluminum backer to the COB seems to be all it needs.

you seem to be mixing things up, heatsink and just a thermal mass with no heatsink are totally different things

heatsink is designed to radiate or conduct the heat away from a device
black color—> thermal radiation
fins—>air conduction
water cooling—>conducting heat to water—>radiator usually active cooled to air with fins
ect.

thermal mass slowly heats up with very poor heat dissipation, finally a point reached where you need to reduce current
usual design for high power flashlights

this plate just acts as thermal mass with almost no heatsinking bare aluminum cant even radiate heat away good

this design cooks the LEds at likely 100°C getting away with it due to low power but LED efficiency drops quite a lot compared to proper cooled ones

Lightbringer · 2019-01-02T16:19:31.000Z

Yabbut… discrete LEDs have their own substrate (likely ceramic), electrical pads on the bottom to make contact, and even with a center pad for better thermal contact, there’s still some insulation going on.

With COBs, they tend to be put on the common substrate, and I think are almost directly connected to the Al plate underneath (hence the “chip on board” moniker), all common-ground, leads connected directly to the chips, so while the plate still might not be the best as far as radiating heat away, they do make better contact with the cheapie chips themselves.

There might be a few or even dozens of different ways to make COBs, but I think (someone correct me if mistaken) that’s the allure of COB systems, a more direct, simplified way of sticking LEDs onto a base. Think of it as an XHP-From-Hell vs discrete XM-Ls.

funkychateau · 2019-01-04T18:55:11.000Z

Lexel:

funkychateau:

Low-power COB lights seem to get away with relatively little heat sinking. Boriut has a similar light, and the little aluminum backer to the COB seems to be all it needs.

you seem to be mixing things up, heatsink and just a thermal mass with no heatsink are totally different things

heatsink is designed to radiate or conduct the heat away from a device
black color—> thermal radiation
fins—>air conduction
water cooling—>conducting heat to water—>radiator usually active cooled to air with fins
ect.

thermal mass slowly heats up with very poor heat dissipation, finally a point reached where you need to reduce current
usual design for high power flashlights

this plate just acts as thermal mass with almost no heatsinking bare aluminum cant even radiate heat away good

this design cooks the LEds at likely 100°C getting away with it due to low power but LED efficiency drops quite a lot compared to proper cooled ones

No, it really is a heat sink. Not a very good one, but that’s the point I was making.

tundraotto · 2019-01-04T19:30:50.000Z

That aluminum heatsink isnt THAT small - looks like 1/8” to 3/16” thick….pretty hefty when you think of the sinking in a 1000lumen flashlight

neBstress · 2019-01-07T17:47:37.000Z

Received my Utorch W1 today.

I can confirm that flat tops don’t work with it but Protected cells do work and fit.

I tested it with NCR18650B’s:
Unprotected flattop = Don’t work, no + contact
Protected Littokala = Work and fit fine
Protected Genuine = Work but tight fit

It has no “Utorch” or “W1” Branding, either on the packaging nor the light:

lotrbfme · 2019-01-07T17:54:55.000Z

Wow with those pictures I am 100% sure it is the same CAT branded light I bought from costco several months ago. Costco had the 2 pack for $19.99 .

tundraotto · 2019-01-07T18:25:50.000Z

How bright is it? Does it actually really qualify as a work floodlight?

tu_army · 2019-01-07T18:30:22.000Z

Unprotected flattop = Don’t work, no + contact

I solve this problem with little magnets.

Jerommel · 2019-01-07T18:52:15.000Z

tundraotto:

That aluminum heatsink isnt THAT small - looks like 1/8” to 3/16” thick….pretty hefty when you think of the sinking in a 1000lumen flashlight

The heat has no way out.
Pretty pathetic when you think of the thermal path in a 1000 lumen flashlight, which has an Aluminium body in stead of plastic.

Lightbringer · 2019-01-07T19:10:43.000Z

neBstress:

It has no “Utorch” or “W1” Branding, either on the packaging nor the light:

Well, ’cause it’s probably actually a Manker or Sofirn or… :smiling_imp:

Muto · 2019-01-07T20:42:57.000Z

Acme, Big Top or Binford