VG10S review

This is a great light in its own right, and I’m afraid I’m going to compare it with its predecessor, the VG10, which is an extremely hard act to follow, as the VG10 is one of my absolute favorite lights. (In fairness, I need to mention that I was given a discount code for my VG10S to replace a VG10 that had a minor issue. If anything, that’s a big nod to Thorfire’s excellent customer service, as I didn’t expect essentially a whole new light just to fix a minor issue!)

Both lights are stoopit-bright, the VG10 is rated ~850lm and the VG10S 1100lm. If either of these isn’t bright enough to light your way, well, wait ’til sunrise. Side-by-side, both seem equally bright. Characteristics of their respective beams are different enough to make any “objective” sense of brightness iffy at best. The ’10 has an absolutely beautiful white but slightly ringy beam, with a faint yellowish halo around the hotspot, but not much tint-shift. The ’10S has a warmer but quite ringy beam, a stunningly beautiful warmer-white hotspot (love the tint!), but with a thicker yellow halo around it, and several “zones” of different shades of light from warm to cool as you work your way outwards. In practice, I don’t think anyone would really notice or object, but when white-wall hunting, it’s a bit disturbing.

The ’10 has a forward-clicky switch (momentary-on from off), which put me in Hog Heaven, as not many lights have FC switches, and I love FC switches. The ’10S has a reverse-clicky (momentary-off from on). I guess people who weren’t used to FC switches got confused at how to switch modes, so Thorfire went to a RC switch to make it easier. Okay, I dislike that (much preferring a FC switch), but I respect their decision.

Both the ’10 and ’10S come with pocket clips. I hate clips, so I immediately removed mine. :smiley: The ’10 comes with a tactical-ring, whereas the ’10S doesn’t. No big deal, as I immediately removed the tactical-ring from my ’10, too, anyway. :smiley: Both come with a packet with spare O-rings.

Modes, ah, modes… The VG10 has 4 absolutely perfectly spaced modes: moonlight, low, medium, and high. The VG10S also has 4 modes: a much lower firefly mode, then low, medium, and high. Unfortunately, the jump from firefly to low is quite jarring (from the lumen specs, 50:1), and the other 3 seem “bunched up” on the high-end of the brightness spectrum. The ’10 doesn’t suffer from blinky modes (strobe, “SOS”, etc.), whereas the ’10S has a hidden-strobe which you get to by doubleclicking. I hate strobes. I’d prefer a doubleclick to turbo or something, but not strobe. Oh, well…

Both the ’10 and ’10S have seemingly identical cases (battery-tube, tailcap, head) with only minor, minor differences. Eg, the bezels. The ’10 has 4 recessed sections whereas the ’10S has 6, and the bezel on the ’10S sits flush on the head, whereas on my ’10 there’s a slight “gap” as if it could be given an extra half-turn. So the fit is a bit better on the ’10S. Both lights tailstand perfectly if you want to use them in “candle” mode (ie, ceiling-bounce). Nice chamfered holes in the tailcap let you attach a lanyard that wouldn’t interfere with tailstanding if you so desire.

Both lights feel hefty and solid when you hold them. You know you have a good solid product in your hand when holding either one. Each one is a solid hunk of metal that will handle the insane levels of heat generated by the LED emitter in putting out ~1000lm of light. Don’t forget, 1100lm is about as much light as a 75W incandescent bulb in your house puts out! And you’re holding that in your hand. Like I said, the VG10S is stoopit-bright!

So, despite what sound like negative comparisons with the original VG10 aside, definitely, if you want to go from firefly levels of light (to not ruin your night-vision in the middle of the night) all the way to daylighting the path in front of you, you can’t go wrong with the VG10S. I’ve got… I think 6 at this point… Thorfire lights, and all of them are excellent. ’Though to be perfectly honest, while I prefer its predecessor, the original VG10, the new VG10S is no exception, and is an excellent light. And for the sale price, you can’t go wrong.

hard to read

https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-Flashlight-rechargeable-Included-Upgraded/dp/B073F6BP6C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501212935&sr=8-1&keywords=thorfire++vg10s

very good

no waterproof? not for me

Hm? Of course it is. Don’t go using it as a diving light, but it absolutely will survive a dunk in a pool or whatever.

<grumble>

There goes my idea for a pop-up book…

Nice interview. You got a review light that did not fall from a truck or was refurbished. Wow, you are quite enthousiast about this light. I find the review not hard to read but a spoonful of pictures helps the medicine go down. Mary Poppins would say. In other words: the text woold look less massive.
I also was very satisfied with the ’10 I bought. A feisty little light. But I assume you did not take the light(s) apart. Because it is quite a puzzle to put all parts back again. About the gap of the bezel. Mine came with (1) a star without LED and a (2) random looking alu disk between the shelf and the actual star. To press the star + LED against the reflector. No ring, no screw(s), just thermal goo. Have to find a somewhat more adult looking solution for that situation :wink: Beamshots! :sunglasses:

Thank you Lightbringer for review of VG10S.

By the way:

Hi Henk4U2,
I have some of VG10 with same problem like your (and Thorfire provided the best customer service I ever seen for them). The way I fixed it is:

Buy some of these :

Replace “a star without LED and a random looking alu disk” with one of thermal pad (round cut to fit in + thermal paste).
I did test VG10 after this mod with Samsung 30Q until it runs out of juice, no problem at all.

Hope it helps.

I love the VG10, and as I mentioned, anything that follows is going to have to work really hard to be better.

Yeah, I admit, I was in a bit of a rush to get a review out asap, but some pix would be nice.

Yep, that’s what I had in mine, too. Someone really screwed up making that decision to just slap a “fix” together and hope it’d work, but TF made good on it.

kiba-ru sells Cu discs/spacers to fix the problem, but there are a couple of different types/sizes, so you have to know which one to get.

I want to reexamine the whole issue of “waterproofness”, though. More later…

I didn’t mean to start and argument just looking for a budget head lamp when I go hunting in October,that can be upgraded as drivers ,meds and lions advance.

Hm? Did I miss something? I didn’t see anyone “starting an argument”…

I think he accidentally posted in the wrong thread

nit: i think 75 watt incandescents do about 900 lumens, not 550 {internet says}

wle

Nice review Lightbringer.
I am just wondering:
Where is the difference between this:

and that:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SF36-Tactical-LED-Flashlight-18650-Cree-XPL2-V6-1100-Lumens-Powerful-Military-Torch-Light-Waterproof-Bike/32812729658.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.ukeeYu&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_5380020_10171_10084_10083_5370020_10080_10304_5400017_10307_5390017_10082_10081_10110_10137_10111_10302_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_10154_10056_10055_10054_10312_10313_10059_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051,searchweb201603_19,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=55af1997-d96f-4626-bdaa-20300acf145f&algo_expid=475fca7f-4b03-4e2a-9324-5ed8f289919a-0&algo_pvid=475fca7f-4b03-4e2a-9324-5ed8f289919a
?

I can remember when 60W incandescents did 880 lumens! I can’t remember what 75W incandescents did back then, maybe 1250 lumens? And a 100W incandescent would put out 1750 lumens! Now, none of those puts out what they used to, because of some silly Federally mandated “energy-saving” regulations! What?! The same wattage produces fewer lumens now, and it’s because they’re trying to save energy?! More proof that the government isn’t good at anything! :person_facepalming:

As I remember in incandescents bulb 1W = 1 candela = 4*3,14 (p) = 12,56 lumens.
So:
60W makes 60*12,56=753,6 lumens.
75W makes 75*12,56=942,0 lumens.

I’ve never seen that formula, so I don’t know. But, I thought I learned that higher wattage incandescent bulbs are more efficient than lower wattage ones (more lumens/watt). So, shouldn’t your formula somehow take that into account? Or, did I learn wrong?

Pulled the info from here:

https://www.google.com/search?q=75w+incandescent+lumens&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

and since the VG10S does about 1100lm… yeah, that’s like having a battery-powered 75W incandescent bulb in your hand.

In form, not very much. Same nice thick battery-tube, same cylindrical head, lots of cooling fins, same approximate shape, both a nice style that I like a lot.

In brightness, they both are nice and bright, into the 4-digits worth of lumens. The SF36 has a cleaner beam, not many artifacts like rings, but as usual with reflectors, you can get odd tint-shifts like yellow halos. The VG10S is kind of ringy and really brings out the odd tint-shifts. I doubt that’s an issue of a bad reflector, but the LEDs, and there doesn’t seem to be any getting around that (other than intentionally defocussing the beam somewhat).

To be honest, they’re both quite nice. Solid, bright, no major issues that I’ve seen yet. I’d be happy with either one, or better yet, both. :smiley:

What I’d love to see is one of those lights, either one, fitted with a nice narrow-angle TIR lens. That would kick some serious flashlight-anus. Better use of “spill” light, no weird tint-shifts or rings or anything, just a nice smooth beam of light.

“Bigger” bulbs are more efficient than “smaller” ones, though. So a fixture with 3 40W bulbs will put out slightly less light than a fixture with 2 60W bulbs. And if one existed, a single 120W bulb would outshine both of those combos.

So it’s not a simple proportion of watts-to-lumens, at least not for commercial incandescent bulbs.