Video I made on reflowing an XPL HI on MCPCB for Acebeam T20 (with before and after measurements)

So, this is my first attempt, but now my broken Acebeam T20 works again. The gain in output wasn’t much really, but I’ll give my before and after figures. Before: 1383 lumens; 264,580cd. After: 1445; 267,560. The new emitter was this one from Mtn. Electronics.

There is a tiny dot in the corner of the LED to mark pin #1. If you note that before removing it from the old board, then drop it, no problems.

Is it on the underside? I didn’t see it on the noctigon.

It will be on the top. It probably isn’t marked on the noctigon, but usually it’s the negative pin. So it would go nearest the negative wire hook up.

Yeah I didn’t see it on the Noctigon. Good to know!

Yikes, that one is odd. Here’s from the datasheet.

Yeah I was sure I didn’t see one on it either. I just looked at the boards closely, noting the traces, polarity, and electrical flow on the PCB and it worked out for me. I think I’ve heard most emitters do have some sort of external markings… I guess except for the XPL HI. But that picture helps for those who just get the bare emitter.

Love your videos! They’re always high quality and well cut!

Ugh, always beating up on poor defenseless lights…

Thanks! I spend a lot of time making cuts here and there trying to make them fast paced and watchable.

A few people were chapped about by that Noctigon video. Sorry! I won’t be dropping this light again. Those centering rings are basically razor blades for those XPL HI emitters. I won’t be doing that again.

:smiley: I’m happy you’ve been successful with the reflow. I’d like to point out somethings. 1) the lighter’s yellow flame would leave soot on the bottom of your stars. Did you wipe it off before putting it back in the light? 2) did you reapply thermal grease between star and flashlight? It’s not a necessity but reduces the possibility of air gaps underneath your star. 3) Personally, i would have applied a little less solder to the acebeam’s star but it’s unlikely to make a difference :slight_smile:
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4) if you drop a light and it fails, it’s not your fault, it’s the fault of the manufacturer. They need to change something.

Cool beans. 8)

1)I actually removed some of the solder. I had to do a bit of creative editing, and I didn’t show that part. I probably still did a bit too much though, but it did lay as flat as the other one. 2)Also I wiped the little bit of soot from underneath the star. I did actually buy a butane torch, but it looks kid of crappy and there wouldn’t have been enough room to hold the long, pencil sized one I purchased. 3)I did not apply more, there was a bit left on the emitter shelf inside the light, so I left it.

4) I did drop it from twice the height the manufacturer recommended. But, I personally think it should have a square spacer- but those XPL HI’s have nothing to protect them. I don’t think it should have killed it either… but hey- flashlight science.

Also thanks for the advice on this. It didn’t go too bad!

3 ) I’ll edit my opinion and suggest that you remove the old and put a new bit of thermal grease if you have :slight_smile: I watched a video tonight and the guy (old electrical engineer) said that a drop in the middle of the LED (he was fixing a 50W LED to something) would spread out evenly and eliminate air pockets compared to what he used to do ie, put multiple bits of thermal grease before pressing down the star. Air is baaaad man! Others will chime in and agree or disagree.

Nice video mhanlen. I guess the real moral of this story is don’t reflow led’s on a sunday…….after a weekend’s drinking :smiley:

To be honest I had none on hand… This morning though I have ordered some attic silver ceramique 2. All I had was the thermal glue, which I do not want to use.

Maybe my problem was, I shoulda been drinking?

Lol, no one was chapped, I was just giving you crap on YouTube.

That was you! Ha ha!