Just a video of the updated version of the heat sink/pill that I am trying out on the LED Mini-Mag mods.
Thanks OL. Another informative video. This looks like a very nice upgrade.
I am utterly in awe of your manual skills!
If I tried your methods, I’d be missing a finger or two.
Awed!!!
The copper tube that centers and supports the optic is an elegant solution. Solid!
On a tangentially related note, I firmly rescind my concerns regarding the longevity of anodized threads on Maglites. I just cleaned out an ancient Mag 3D (pre-1990) of my great-Uncle’s. It was host to Duracells with expiry dates of January 2000. ’Twas ugly: two had leaked and one had basically fused to the light itself. The tailcap threads were full of battery goop, yet the threads’ anodizing stayed relatively intact even after extensive cleanup. That impressed me, especially considering that alkaline battery goop is basic (a la lye), which eats aluminum oxide. I have to fully tighten the tailcap before the bulb lights up.
I did not really think the ano would wear, but I like the Kapton tape as a safety net, to isolate.
Nice video Justin! Your narratives are easy to follow and well thought out. If you cut the threads on the battery tube of a AA incan and bore the head for a driver on both the head and the tube the ano is removed at those points allowing possible electrical contact. This makes isolating the driver ground from the copper sink almost mandatory since even if no ec is made and the cuts are filed, eventually the ano may wear through though the black ano seems much thicker and tougher than the colored minis. On my mods, those two raw edges overlap so I isolate the driver every time. If you don’t bore the head, then you may get away with grounding the driver to the pill but it seems an unnecessary risk.
How long does it take to remove say .5 mm from the head ID using the end mill bit? Using sandpaper on a smaller drill bit it takes me about an hour but the upside is a very smooth bore and I can hold the head in my hand and use either a portable drill or the press. A 3/4” hole saw is 19mm and I use that method to clean it up and get that last mm. Again, thanks for another great video.
It takes me about a half hour to remove the material from the inside of the head. I'm cutting out about 1mm+ of thickness, so .5mm would take less time. I am using a small end mill bit, versus a large one. The bigger the diameter, the more it wants to rip the head out of your hands and kill you. Somewhere around a 3/16" bit is good.
As always. Thanks for sharing. Real nice hand work! Well made video too.
Im liking the design…
New era of OL’s Mag drop-ins! 
Well done 
