Want to build my first light

I have a new addiction to flashlights and I would like to build my first light. We do a lot of night hunting and we currently run a Olight M31 SST50 on one rig and a M3X XML2 on the second. I like the 1” tube and the dual 18650 layout. This is all new to me but I think it would be cool to build a light. So where would I start in my quest to build a light that throws at least as far or further than my 2 current lights.

Small sun zy-t08 with a dedomed noctigon xm-l2 or even xp-g2 if you want less spill, running atleast on 4,5A or more and quality high current batteries.

As far a batteries go I just got 4 Panasonic 3400ma 18650’s. I would like to stick with a 1” tube on the light so I could mount it to my scope.

Sorry then. Buy a convoy c8 DIY host from fasttech, qlite 3.04A and xp-g2 r5 c3 on noctigon from intl-outdoor.

Great thanks, I have an Ultrafire C8 laying around that I never use because you have to shake it to get it to work. possible I could use that light mod it and repair at the same time.

I took my C8 apart and the driver is 18mm and the star is 20mm.Can anyone tell me if the parts I selected are an improvement over factory. Or if something else is recomended also will I need to de dome this led



Yes a DrJones driver would really improve the light
Go here

C8 is a great first build. (Convoy- is the only one I have played with. I’m a hack and I only burned two fingers when I did it. It centered and focused nicely- for a C8. Throws far and singes retinas. Have fun.

Having to shake the light is a sign of poor contact somewhere. Possibly a weak spring in the tailcap or quite often internal to the switch. Cheap lights have cheap parts but fortunately both can be fixed. As a diagnostic measure remove the tailcap and short the - battery to the tube with a rubber or plastic handled screwdriver or wire with the insulation stripped from the ends but not the middle. If this improves the function of the light then likely the problem is in the switch or spring. Try stretching the spring. If that works then replace it. If it doesn’t then you need a new switch. If shorting the - battery to the host does not help then the problem is in the head somewhere and we’ll need some close ups to diagnose that. It could be a weak spring or a bad solder joint in several different places. Start at the tailcap though, it’s easier to check and eliminate.

I noticed you are in PA, shipping from the Far East is not so fast. Try ordering from locals, Mountain Electronics and don’t forget to check E2 Fieldgear.

Thanks I had no idea there were domestic suppliers. new parts list below.


I want to add 2 chips to the driver.