I wonder how much current it would take before the leads start to melt.
For this light and mod, probably not much right now. Basically, as seen in the pics, the 3up board is sitting on the top of the pill. The original emitter was actually kind of in the same place, sitting on the pill, but was glued or Fujik’ed. The front of the pill (emitter side) is empty/hollow, so even the original emitter only had contact with the pill on the edges.
The driver that I used doesn’t push much current. As I said, it was from my junk parts box, and I think was originally from a UF S5, so this was more like just a proof-of-concept (POC) now.
If I put a “real” driver, like a 105C in it, I’d definitely need to do more with the heat transfer, but this one was more for fun at this point :).
However, having said that, I did a UF-K21 3up awhile ago, with a 2.8 amp or 3.04 amp driver, the emitter solder joints kept melting :), and I ended up having to fill the pill with a disc on top of the pill and some thermal compound.