They should be available from Convoy next month: 【convoy】T4 driver has 13 groups ,sorry ,i made a mistake
I did some performance tests for Emisar DT8 with 4000K SST20’s.
Stock with full Molicel P28A it draw 20A. With 20 awg spring bypasses current jumped to 25A. After switching 22 awg led wires to 20 awg ones I gained extra 0.5A.
So it seems that stock springs are bottleneck if you want full power from your hot rod.
I always compressed the spring fully when I did tests and I used Uni-t 210E clamp meter and 16 awg wire.
Thanks, I kinda liked them, but ended up sanding them out.
Looks like this right now, and I’m gonna do the original green tailcap soon so its full green again.
It probably took around an hour? With short breaks. I diddnt really pay attention actually.
Sanding the grooves out took probably less than 10min?
Unfortunately I had to do it all by hand with a file and sand paper.
Im thinking that new bare aluminum surface could be a decent spot for a sticker?
Or maybe put some text there with something like this?
Or take it somewhere for some engraving?
Or strip the whole cap and re-paint it something cool?
I could do glow in the dark, or sparkly candy apple red?
I dont know. Just ideas that occur to me.
SP10 PRO w 519a 4500k
album with pics of modding sequence
Convoy S11 with fc40 4000k and 25° tir lens. The lens is a bit shorter than the reflector, so I soldered a brass, round plate to the driver’s pin and additionally a spring. The battery fits perfectly now.
I made 6 replacement drivers for Olight S2 because the original ones died. Details here
Interesting solution with the pin and spring. Also 1st time I see the FC40 used with a TIR. How’s the beam?
Did some hardcore tree modding. This will be my highest CRI light to date
The easy way to split.
More fun too, than using a maul.
When you use around 7 m3 per year it’s kind of a necessity. And don’t forget, it’s not just the splitting, the trees don’t saw themselves into short pieces and magically appear next to the splitter. Some luxury is permitted
Smooth, even, no artifacts, good balance between flood and throw.
I know all too well the amount of effort it takes to go from standing trees to burning it for heat. For many many years I cut, hauled, split with a maul and stacked 3 cords (common US measure) or about 11 m3 every year. Now we use mostly stored sunshine (big LFP prismatic cells) and run a mini-split off that. Lots of sunny days even when it is cold. We have a token wood stove and might use a single m3 over winter. I find I still like to cut and prepare the smaller amount but don’t miss needing to do the larger volume.
Where did you get the optics? May want to try it myself.
Here are the lens. Of course you have to remove the white holder.
I also used a centering washer (probably this one) so that the lens does not rest directly against the diode.
Recently, everyone has dedome the 519, but I still like the sliced 351d.
Convoy S5 with a mix of 2700k, 3500k and 5000k, 10508 optics, biscotti 5A driver and custom aluminum spacer.
Modded my Feist today.
Last week I got my Kizer Feist with paper micarta (“Richlite”) scales, super pretty and they even changed the blade shape a bit more to my liking (less pointy) compared to the original Feist. Love everything about it except the clip, it is right-hand only which really does not work for me, and it is not as nice of a design as the rest of the knife.
So I removed the clip, but was leftover with the ugly attachment groove and holes.
To fill that up I looked for material that matches the scale material, and I came up with this bamboo/resin cup that we never used. The material and darkness of the colour matches quite well, just the tint of purple is a bit diffent. Good enough!
So I started with sawing a bit out of the cup and started sanding from there.
The material appeared to have multiple weak points, so several attempts ended in cracking the material once it got thin and nearly in shape. Finally I got a strong bit that held up to the end.
And here is what I ended with, lots of waste material, a broken cup, but also the tiny chip that fitted the cavity.
I glued it in with Araldite clear epoxy.
And after the glues was set, I shaved the excess glue with a scalpel and tried to level everything as well as I could with fine sand paper.
Pretty happy with the end result, much better than those unused holes.
I have a set of files like the two in the 3rd image
Put a 219b SW35k into a Thrunite Archer Mini. Just created the greatest pocket light ever.
Not posting photos because the bezel is looking pretty destroyed. It was not an easy project, every time I went to screw down the bezel and TIR it kept spinning the PCB and ripping the wires off the driver. Also the reflector sits so low you have to be PERFECT with your solder, one nanometer too high of solder and your shorting the leads on the reflector.